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91white_ka wrote:Naw man I have a bunch of Rucas, you gave me those to rods anyway. I think they were off the patriot car when you lowered it?

What? And they won't give it to you at tr price listed?

Naw man I have a bunch of Rucas, you gave me those to rods anyway. I think they were off the patriot car when you lowered it?

I wondered where I left those ruca! Remember slamming the rat-hatch at your house?

When you going to move down here so we can get dirty building some sick machines?!

Yeah let me know. Also I have thought many times about doing an Altima just for the sleeper factor. What do you have in mind? Ha ha

Good to see you back homie! You might just motivate me to put together another ka-t. I'm actually running my built ka n/a in my daily, the one I put together in for the patriot car right after I got back from Iraq. Just havnt been motivated to boost it again. Keep this updated man. And if you need a...

The hose that is on the back/side of the thermostat housing is required. It allows water to circulate when the thermostat is closed. Where does the water flow if the thermostat is closed? If there is no flow because the thermo is closed there is no syphon effect. I was under the impression the ther...

Yeah I welded off every port for coolant lines except the regular radiator hoses, plus the two heater hoses I'm running, one on the back of the block, and one on the upper intake manifold. I have literally tried for 2 days straight to get the thermo to open and nothing. I think I'm going to add a po...

I don't have pictures, but on the front cover there is a port directly behind the thermo and one on the side and I wasn't using either one of those so I deleted them.

Recently I put my built/fresh ka into one of my cars to run as a daily. The motor has wiseco .040 pistons, eagle rods, arp everthing blah blah; and freshly reworked stock head. All emissions and in needed coolant lines on this motor have been removed and welded shut. The only coolant lines I have ar...

Just realized I didn't get pics of the z... http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx317/91white_ka/Snapbucket/FED22E45.jpg http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx317/91white_ka/Snapbucket/AC8613EF.jpg http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx317/91white_ka/Snapbucket/B40C3F80.jpg http://i767.photobucket.com/...

You don't need the sohc crank it's too long. I used it only because I had it laying around and I build these cars for fun. I had to cut the snout ofmy sohc crank to to get it to fit. Use the dohc crank and a set of sohc pistons and rods if you can find them from the same motor. As for porting the he...

Just curious if there is any interest in a write up on this. Recently I swapped a s13 engine with all accessories, harness and ecu into a s14 kouki for a customer. Everything bolts up but if there is any interest in a write up for the wiring I will do one. I just dont want to waste my time on someth...

Sorry for letting this die off guys. I sold that car, it was pretty peppy though. I didn't play with it long enough to really feel it out. The low end had tons of pep though. As for keeping the same rotating assembly from that engine it isn't 100 percent needed but I believe the ka's are balanced so...

I agree your power goal is more than reasonable with 9:1 and 91 oct. Plus you have the option to drive anywhere in the country and not worry about finding e85.

You still need an external wastegate with the holset. The internal gate port is not large enough to bleed enough pressure on a gas powered engine.

The car has been running for a week now. I guess it could be rod knock but I just don't see that with how well it runs aside from that. It purrs, has lots of pep, feels like a healthy ka aside from the clatter. I've double checked all the timing stuff, even replaced the upper tensioner with a oem on...

Checked valve lash and even few were too tight, .012-.009. I doubt this is the source of my rattle.

Thanks for the quick reply man. Im going to check it now.

I recently assembled another junk motor I had laying around. Had a mystery bottom end that came with a car, and a head laying around from a rod knock motor. New gaskets and seals through out. Also had some non oem timing chain kit that came with another car I bought. So timing chain stuff has maybe ...

Before I decided to just make a custom bell housing. I had the mazworx kit and I was inquiring what machining I needed to have done to the housing and the said basically you just need to take the thickness of the range out of the area the adapter plate covers.

What's up with this thing? I want to see some 16-18 psi numbers!!!

Do they come with a power rating? Garuntee?

Yeah man, I never would have thought a weak fuel pump. I really just ran out of things to change on it. It didn't help that the guy before me completely trashed this car. I think at this point I have some simple wiring issues but then it should be good to go.

Ok so major part of the issue is fixed. After swapping out everything besides the engine itself . It was a weak fuel pump. The car now drives so I can diagnose the rest of the issues. For the same of anyone else that might pull up this thread later on. I will do my best to give a detailed discriptio...

For the archives, you don't have to break the pushing to get it out. Whatever tools you use for that method can score up the contact service and make it hard to install the new one. You can simply pack the whole with bearing grease, then use a clutch alignment tool or other metal piece that fits tig...

What happened to all the mechanically inclined people that used to help out and answer questions on here? There's a two page thread about pilot bushing removal for gods sake...

So I officially own two 240's I cant seem to diagnose. This one is a coupe, with dohc ka and manual conversion. The problem is the car has a stuttering rev. It somewhat sounds like spark blow out. If I rev it slowly its fine but trying to bring the rpms up quickly sounds horrible. Since I have bough...

It is expensive to do right. I have $600 in hose and fittings alone. Spend your money on something else. Not really sure what you are refereeing to as "right" but if the goal is to keep the sump submerged at all time or ensure that oil pump whatever origin it may be always sees oil, then ...

So far I have double check mechanical and dizzy timing. Swapped fuel rails, dizzys, temp sensor, unplugged the maf. The fuel filter and lines are hooked up correctly. Getting pressure from the pump too. I'm thinking maybe the ecu or harness. It's throwing knock and temp codes. Both of which are new.