www.ka-t.org

And to confirm if your caliper is indeed messed up inside...take that dust boot (rubber ring) off the outside of the piston (it's not the seal, it won't cause a fluid leak) and then try to turn the piston in. Those dust seals like to stick to the piston and make it very difficult to turn it back in....

Pull up on the ebrake handle...there is a 10mm nut below the actual handle. Tighten that nut as tight as you feel comfortable with...mine will hold the car on a hill at 2 clicks. Go out and drive and pull the brake...then tell us you didn't lock them up ;) The ebrake (parking brake in professional a...

I have heard rumors that SPL will be rereleasing new F&R LCAs...haven't seen or heard anything definite though...I can only hope..

Take the coil wire off the distributor and put your spark tester on it...if the coil's firing it will spark to the tester.

When you remove the alarm you have to reconnect the starter wire...most newer alarms have a starter kill that won't allow the starter to engage unless the alarm is disarmed.

It's fusible linked from the factory...sounds like you have a bad starter, or a very tight motor. How are your engine grounds? The starter grounds through the engine which grounds through several grounds...if you have a poorly grounded engine (from installing the MS or whatever) that can also cause ...

Disconnect the junction block and connect the starter wire to the wire from the trunk. You may have a voltage drop (restriction) that is overworking the starter, causing it to overheat and blow the fuse (fuses blow based on heat aka current flow)...50 amps may be once it's cranking but your initial ...

well i guess ill try to readjust the rod again to see if that helps but i know if i readjust the rod then the pedal will not hit the sensor to turn of the brake light. NOT the rod on the pedal...there is a rod from booster to master cylinder...pop the two nuts off the booster to remove the master.....

May also have to adjust the rod from booster to back of master cylinder. When I put my z32 booster in it was too long and every hit of the brake pedal locked them up tighter, lol good way to do burnouts

Get an auto ecu and plug it in. Or a way to tune and delete the limiter.

Bringing up this thread. I want to solid mount my engine as the car is mostly used on track. I have previously run a car with poly engine mounts and was completely unfazed by the increased vibration at idle and very impressed with how much tighter the car felt. The question is I guess just how much...

For future reference...your local parts store should have those fuses for a few bucks a piece...little less hassle then scouring a junkyard.

Stock rears on a 240 are twist ins...ebrake housed inside caliper...fronts are push in....c-clamp the pad to the piston and push all the way in, done.

Klattr's kit is only for non ABS, as well as the old TK kit as well I believe...I don't personally know anyone who has SS'ed an ABS 240 yet.

Make sure the valve is still operational then...pull it off the car and make sure it moves...if you can't find anything wrong anywhere else you've got a plugged up EGR tube...make sure nobody ever put a nickel in the pipe that connects to the exhaust manifold...

It pulls up I believe...you need to apply vacuum to the nipple on the valve to check it.

No problem hope you get it running great soon.

Sounds like a boost/vacuum leak or an incorrect tune in boost transition.

Pull the vacuum line of the actual EGR valve while the car is idling. Apply vacuum to the valve...it your idle gets rough you know for a fact that the EGR is opening and flowing properly. That will mean it's a control side problem. If it doesn't cause a rough idle the valve is either not opening or ...

[quote="JDeerTay"]After I checked all of the above, I checked the compression in each cylinder. They all checked in at 59.{quote]

If you're only getting 59psi you have a serious lack of compression...it should be in the 140-150ish range.

Put a 5psi spring in the wastegate.

Unless you have a super high compression N/A motor you don't need stronger ignition, the stock works fine even under a considerable amount of boost. You're better off saving the money for an aftermarket ignition and using it elsewhere.

^ that...same reason a differential has a vent tube.

No pressure inside manual trans, it's all just flung around and squeezed through the gears.

Not planning on doing it, just a wondering thought. Trying to learn more about engines. I know the basics but I'm trying to learn more advanced stuff. And I would never assume anything on a build, it was just a hypothetical question about why those parts exist.

I guess this would be a good place to ask this question...say you got the BC fully counterweighted crank with an ATI damper...and assume the valvetrain can handle it, does anybody know what would be a safe range then?

It's new cause you got the new firmware lol.

non serviceable for us lol. BTW that version 1.2 works great, smoother operation and I haven't had a sensor timing error since I installed it

It's not through Nistune that you will get narrowband simulation...there should be an output on your wideband that will do that. You will hook that output to your factory o2 sensor wiring and it will simulate a narrowband to the ECU. On the innovate LC-1 for example it's the yellow wire.

There's only two things you could have wrong, cam timing, or dizzy timing....I would start with dizzy. Move it one tooth forward and try (regardless of if you say it's right or not, just try it). If that doesn't work, retime the motor.