www.ka-t.org

Where is everyone selling all of the good stuff at now? This place use to have a bunch of great stuff back in the day.

Thanks for the info. I'll check it out.

So I'm in the process of upgrading my turbo and I have a dilemma. My current turbo is a t3/t4 to4e egay special. It's has done me good for nearly 30k miles on 10lbs. It's now starting to smoke at idle and is quite an embarrassment. I obviously don't want to purchase another ebay turbo and want to go...

Seems that after 3 different distributors, your problem lies elsewhere

Does the turbine sound more audible? More gas smell from the engine bay? Going through gas a tid bit quicker?

I would suspect exhaust leak pre O2 sensor and pre wide band sensor.

Hate to sound mean, but this thread should be locked up.

Airman, Glad to see that some progress was finally made after the thread that I created awhile back got some noticeable attention. So it seems anyways, because of your now current role. I haven't been on here much since then because of that issue. Seems that the issue has FINALLY cleared up. There f...

Could hit the junk yard and snatch something up from a car. That's what I would do at least

Sorry, should've been more clear about the booster situation. The booster that you mentioned is what I have.

Although it should be more common sense, the thicker the booster, more possible problems.

S14 non ABS RHD booster w/stock brake line fittings didn't cause me any problem.

Turbo or manifold bolts could've backed out.

My turbo studs all backed out last week. Loss of power, some smoke, but....very audible exhaust leak.

Recharge battery, (possibly buy a new battery),and get the alternator tested in the same time frame, (possibly buy a new alternator).

Start there.

youll have to hammer in the strut tower about 1/2" or so to clearance the banjo fittings you will need to use. I have the s14 RHD master and booster. I didn't have to beat the strut tower one bit. If you tweak the lines just right, there is no beating involved. Of course, you have to add line ...

I would lean towards dry-rot causing the seal(s) to leak.

I would lean more towards the synchros being shot.

Unless if you're dyslexic and you're thinking 1st gear is 2nd

Yea, it's back to having me sign in every time now too. This sh¡t sucks. And it pushes me away from the site. I've talked w/ Airman and Supakat, (need to get back to Airman). Neither one can do much because they're limited to the stuff that they can do. Neither CEO has responded back to me. I might ...

So I've been doing some tinkering around for the past 2 days trying to figure something out but to no avail. I was able to delete the board cookies and that solution has now made it to where I do not have to sign back in every time I switch to full style. I'm still having the problem that when I swi...

No need for a pressure regulator to maintain the flow of air?

I'm about to post this link in every forum just so it can get noticed by the more important administers so something will become of this situation. I have seriously only been on here about 5 times in the past couple of months, compared to where I used to be on here on a daily basis.

I can't believe that none of the higher-ups have addressed this situation yet.

The reason why I haven't really been on in a few months. Every window that opens, it's the same sh¡t. Sign in, open a forum, sign in, desktop view, sign in, desktop view again, page 2, desktop view, sign in, desktop view again, over and over and over. It's rather annoying and I've missed this place....

There is not a fusible link. From point A to point B, the only thing in between is the ECU. You blew something on your tuning method.

Which you already figured out.

I did this to myself a few months back.

I think mine was cut to about 10" in diameter. It's pretty big than what most people do.

+1 for lining the cut. I used vacuum line that I had lying around my shop. For the guys that have holes that are slightly larger than their pipes, it helps in case of rubbing.

Train your ears. Your best bet would be to get familiar w/ the noises. After you get used to the certain noises, once you hear something that isn't familiar, well, then you know something is off beat. My engine makes multiple noises, has made the exact same noises since rebuilt. I know what they are...

I would recommend cutting a slightly bigger hole than necessary for some wiggle room.
But then again, I have an s13 and my cold pipe is one solid piece.

Jack the front of the car up from a center point, to get the wheels off of the ground. Wiggle each tire/rim and see which corner is worse. I'm almost certain that one of the joints is bad at either end of the tie-rod(end). Edit: When you had the car on the lift, did you check for play again now that...

1/4 inch sir.

Sorry for the late response, I've been real busy w/ work lately.

They are relatively close to 3/16 or a 1/4 inch. If I can remember when I go to my shop later today, I'll get an exact measurement for you. I would not recommend using anything that is rubber for a band aid. I would at least use a couple of nuts for a temporary fix. If I have any extra spacers, I'll...

There should be a fitting on the front of the turbo, where the hot pipe joins. If you have one, get your vacuum source from there. If you don't find or understand what I'm talking about, let me know.

Not exactly sure if this will help you being that I have not read more than 25% of it, but, ya never know.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/diy-avc-r-se ... 42402.html

See if any of the pistons in the front calipers are seized up.