www.ka-t.org

hot spots on pistons not looking good. that built up carbon on number one and two is not a good sign if its only in those 4 little spots.

its jdm its not on any list i have for usdm stuff

all your pistons are in backwards.

that is a shielded wire it keeps interference away from the wire. what year is your car i will tell you how to ohm out your maf harness to the ecu.

start executing people that post basic and chat things in the advanced section. or designate a new mod or existing to be in charge of moving stuff from advanced to basic or chat.

your on NWN huh? i just answered your question in the tech section.

end all solution to most of life's little problems, especially you kids on here, increase boost.

iap manifold does.

without a idle control valve the throttle blade will need to be cracked in order to allow air to enter and start the car. as to adjusting the last one differently the only way to be able to tell that is to have 4 egt's one for each cylinder and see if one is running hotter.

at 109-111 trap speed my car was 300whp and weighed 2550 with me in it.

sounds like cam timing to me

there is nothing between the block and head besides the head gasket.

i dont think the average joe needs it. the aem, haltech boxes autronic can do so much stuff that you would never use. dont get me wrong they are frickin awesome and fun to tune. but in the end i prefer a factory ecu for a daily driven car.

what happened to the area in the red box? looks like an angle cut was used because a space constraints instead of moving the collector a little bit.

whose video is that?

how do you set up the anti lag on tunerrtpro with a calum board?

yes switch them and cut off the two nubs on the back of the cam.


or..... save yourself all the hassle and get rid of those POS before you blow your brains out after realizing your car is slower with them

JaeTea wrote:
I just compression tested it about a few months ago and it was 165 across all cylinders.

perhaps right before turbo? now you have been beating it turboed. might want to check again.

take out possibly the best engineered 6 cyl for a 20 year old 90's technology 4 cyl... theres a bright idea.

guess you didnt search under my name a BC. all his products are crap. his QC is some of the worst in the industry. ALOT of his honda cams did the same thing as yours and snapped in half.

not to bad of a way to die.

as i am sure cory always does he probably researched the hell out of the different ways to duct cold air to the brakes and this was the best/easiest way to do it. this is how i duct most of the cars that people bring in that want to chat, just like radiator cooling unless you have proper ducting you...

there is a reason nissan went with a higher offset wheel on this chassis. scrub radius.

i've done it. swapped to rollerrockers at the same time.

on a 350.

If your going through all that work might as well put a VE head on it for VTEC.

next time brace WG feed tube to turbo flange. little triangle piece would work perfect.

the 400 is really no problem just a couple bolt ons. its that extra 20hp thats a real bugger.

you can only determine your ideal tire width and alignment specs based on tire temps. get the 225's adjust your suspension as much as you can to get the temps those tires love, then if they still get hot you will need to go wider. its a long process to set up but once you find the sweet spot your ca...

just use both.

building a n/a ka is the same as building an n/a ls1, b series, k series etc. lotsa displacement, lotsa cam duration, very short intake runners, itbs, lotsa compression, tuned header, plenty of fuel, and as always DEEP pockets