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Yeah, unsprung weight is the main idea here. Thanks for all the help on all the tranny, that cleared it all up.

What is the difference with the 5th gear? Taller in the 240?

Also, I wonder if the subframe as an assembly is heavier than the solid axle in the truck. If its lighter, that would be great. I could just put it in as is with just a little fab work. Nothing is that easy though.

Thanks for the subframe info. About the diff, the S14 SE's are the only ones with limited slip right?

Does anybody have any more info on the tranny?

Is there any difference in KA24E (car or truck engines) and KA24DE transmissions? Not just strength, but gearing as well? My KA24DE-T is almost done and I don't know whether to swap trannies or use the one in the truck (KA24E) As a follow up question- I think an independent rear would be a killer se...

How does it change the sound?

What the autometer reads with the car off is interesting. Are you below sea level?

Take care of the fuel side and tune it, like, uh....yesterday.

Don't worry guy's. Us republicans in the other 49 states have been praying for CA to fall off into the ocean along with it's, what, 39 or so electorial votes. It's just a matter of time till we find a way to make it happen. Then you can not feel bad about moving to the "mainland"

If you really, really have to have a VTA setup, do a blow-through maf.

If it's just sound though, yeah, recirc.= quicker spool.

I can't wait to see a boosted KA with ITB's. What are you thinking of doing? A common plentum or what?

+1 on bending them. I wouldn't do it with a mallet though. Take em' off, use a tubing bender. Your brakes will thank you for the fluid change anyways.

Whats up with your ignition setup? You have coil packs? I noticed that there's no distributor. That thing looks killer! I love the intake manifold. What exhaust mani are you running?

Is that a blow through MAF? If so, which one?

And the intake has to come from that side to, hence the same side intercooler inlet/outlet.

It doesn't.

I've always loved crank scrapers, and for those who are just hearing about them, they are not a new thing. They've been on modded domestic V8's forever. Every small block chevy i've built had a sheetmetal crank scraper on the oil pan rail. They are cheap and they work. (BTW- if you were wondering- I...

Yeah, I've had blue balls since this thread started. Little help?

He sounds like a honda guy.

Try APC for that manifold, you probley have an account with them.

Doubling up is exactly the wrong idea. Have your wategate and your manifolds flanges resurfaced. It sound like it's the manifold's flange, huh?

If the surfaces are totally flat, you don't even need a gasket.

As far as the build goes, A good set of forged pistons in the CR that you want, and shotpeened rods are fine for your setup. The stock rods are fine up to around 450whp, so your 3-350 is fine. Pistons are good insurance though. You should really focus on hardware/gaskets/bearings. These small things...

Yeah, to clarify, you NEVER use the FPR to lean it out. When tuning with a WB, you richen with the FPR until the low A/F spots are covered up, then lean everything else down with the SAFC or whatever hack/management your using.

That's a hell of a resource. Someone needs to talk to them about advertising here.

So its kind of like you have too much vaccum?

I'm not sure what drain you talking about and you don't need a filter adapter. T it off from the oil pressure sender on the back of the block. We have great vendors that can help you with the lines, bung, and fittings. Try searching too, its been beat to death.

Be carefull how liberily you use the letters SR and RB around here. There is a reason it is called KA-T.ORG you know. Short answer- yes, rebuild it with decent sub 9.0:1 cr forged pistons, shotpeened stock rods, and a decent set of gaskets and a great set of bearings. Upgraded hardware is always a g...

and remember

NO PICS= LIES

You still have the restriction at the inlet. Remember, spooling a turbo isn't volume, its velocity.

Less than 2k? wow! S13? Tell us about it. Is it totally gutted?

You didn't loose 700lbs.

The little sticker on the door is the G.V.W.R. (gross vehicle weight rating) which is curb weight (in your case 3080lbs.) plus payload weight rating, or what you can carry.

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