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vacuum leak

from personal experience, my knock code pulled approximately 10. I was shocked about how much it was as well.

i would avoid the pump circuit as well. Just pick us the radio, or cig lighter, or find any relay in the box that has an ignition source and tap the trigger wire. If you haven't already downloaded the FSM, do it and you can know what every wire in the car does

caution buying ebay cats. Make sure you get an actual picture of the product you are getting to make sure everything looks good. The flanges are not always welded correctly.

I would avoid the rust proofing stuff on the exhaust unless you want to be smelling is burning off for many many miles.

what he said. I would try to avoid any serious vibration to the sensor and would keep it as clean as possible.

i would just stick with the stock 3 bar fuel pressure. Fuel Lab makes a good regulator. They can be found through our sponsor, AMS. I have never heard of anyone have issues with the Aero 1000 before as well.

A code 34 will pull timing like 10 degrees to safe guard the engine. It thinks that it is knocking, so that could be part of it. There is a knock sensor up for sale in the for sale section. i just saw it and will try to find it again. As for the ECU, go and check all your pins with a voltmeter to ma...

Now that is a good explanation of white smoke. Headgasket job, here you come!

if you had a pre turbo vacuum leak, you would be lean all the time.

If you had a post turbo vacuum leak, you would have lean off boost and rich on boost conditions like you said. Sorry about the confusion

the lack of response kinda tells me that they aren't that popular.

when decelerating the car should be going lean. Too lean and you have a problem. Here is what you need to do if you haven't already... Cold start the car In monitor mode on the SAFC, Monitor the Air flow Hold the RPMs at what you NE1 set at. (my NE1 on my SAFC is 1000, so i would hold it at a 1000) ...

Check those o-rings again. Vacuum test her for leaks. maybe replace things like dist rotor and spark wires if they are old

is it at the same temperature every time? Possibly a bad temp sensor. or maybe you are getting some knock and its pulling timing. Check those sensors via FSM

welcome new guy. Start sharing some knowledge

get the car to operating temperature by this procedure.... rev to 2000 rpms for two minutes idle for one rev to 2000 rpms for two minutes again idle for one again race engine 2-3 times idle again for 1 minute turn off car unplug TPS Sensors turn on car and get rpms to 750 +/- 50 adjust timing at dis...

what size/type injectors? How did you test for vacuum leaks? How far away from the turbo if the MAF. Is the MAF close to any sharp bends?

if i recall correctly, the auto dust cover is in two pieces. And the clutch will produce more dust than the auto. I am not 100% sure if it will fit or provide the same shielding properties.

The manual one can be found cheap. Test fit the auto on and let us know.

what about a leak after the MAF before the turbo. Is this a rebuilt engine?

i used the dust cover

dump? like wastegate? If so, TIAL is the most popular. Where is the line hooked up the wastegate connected to?

use the stock bearing clearances.

yeah you should be fine

the timing guides use hex bolts to hold them on. I believe its either a 6mm or a 7mm hex hole. The front timing cover is held on by bolts and RTV. Once you get the bolts off just pull or pry safely not damaging anything. Also while at the machine shop...get your block and head decked with the timing...

you injectors can handle more than that. I would say the 300 - 350 hp range. Do you drive in a hot climate by any chance?

yes, they are. $32.91 brand new at advanced auto. No core charge.

That size turbo can be just fine if you have the right trim. .63 = no, .50 = decent enough size for your situation. Of course a t28 will spool even quicker

That is probably an ok size, I wouldn't worry about it. But like he said, it comes down to how efficient it is.

was it a knock off B&M, or an actual one? I got ripped off and mine didn't even fit at all. Go back to the stock one and make sure the problem is not the tranny. Then go from there.

I found the answer. Nevermind. Sorry about the wasted server space.

When the AC is on the car, it adds load to the engine. To account for this load, more fuel is added to the engine when its turned on. When you remove the AC components, the ECU does not know they are missing and still adds the fuel. I do not know how to fix this, but i do know why it happens.