www.ka-t.org

Is that a built RE4R01A, or some other trans? Any info on the trans build?

Is your MAF curve tuned properly so that your fuel trims are as close to zero as possible? I'd think that's the place to start.

I'm already covered with an AEM, but I'm wondering if this new version will ship fully assembled or not.

I've had my S14 Biki board sitting around in its original shipping box forever. I've got about 85MB of files covering software from V1 to current. I can give you the software and sell you the board if you're interested at all. PM me.

Why not get a custom thickness Cometic? I hear they're pretty easy to order, and not too terribly expensive.

I think 3" is fine for 500 whp or less. I remember reading a magazine article that tested 3" vs 3.5", and the 3.5" made considerably more power, like 60-100 whp, once past 600 whp.

Clearwater has sent out some lemons. I'd steer clear of them.

I did the math once and as far as v-band turbine inlet flanges vs. the regular rectangular ones, the v-band has more area than a T28 flange and less than a T3. Significantly less than a T4.

Looks like a good start. I know that's a mock up, but Just to be sure to cut base plates for all the connection points to the chassis. If you intend it for competition, look up the rules for the sanctioning body and class you intend to compete in. I think SCCA requires 36 sq in base plates.

I used 3/8" and 5/8" Parker hose last time I did the two hoses to the pump. Never done the rack. Make sure to get a good quality oil resistant hose or you'll be replacing them sooner than you'd like.

Wow! Awesome curves. Super smooth, repeatable power. Congrats.

The Series 1 PnP on my '98 works fine. I do have my ECU repinned at the plug for a '95 ECU though. Been that way for a while.

Do the cheap mods to start, like a really big cooler, maybe inline filter. Run a synthetic tractor hydraulic fluid and ATF mix. Valve body mods, Trans-Go shift kit, upgraded solenoids, etc. are all a good start. Supposedly the Australians have built a few RE4R01A automatics, even some with transbrak...

It'll probably throw your valve timing off a few to several degrees.

Very nice manifold. Great TB flange. Did you mill that or buy it?

Just drill (if necessary) and retap for 3/8 NPT and use a 3/8 NPT to -6 AN adapter. Or go bigger with 1/2 NPT and -8 AN.

I'd call the Z32 fuel filter an upgrade. It's more of a longevity upgrade than a power upgrade. By itself, it won't give you any more power, but it has a larger filtration surface, so it will hold more crap before it clogs enough to impede flow.

Not quite. Your piston drawing shows the wrist pin 90* off from how it's actually oriented. More like this:



The offset in the picture is exaggerated for effect, but hopefully you see what I mean. Good luck with your build.

Oh, and John: mellow there buddy.

The primary reason why you tack weld sheet metal is to prevent distortion along the panel length and width. If you tried to weld a continuous bead, the heat that you put into the panel could warp it. If you tack it, you put just down just enough to mechanically fasten it all along its edges. I've se...

The 86mm vs. 96mm crank throw gives an 11.5% reduction in throw, makes it an oversquare KA22DE-T, reduces piston speed by 10% at the same RPM, reduces engine harmonics for a smoother, higher revving motor, allows increased RPM range and powerband, while (hopefully) still maintaining good torque and ...

S30 + R34 + S14 = S34

You'll almost certainly need gears if you've had the head or block resurfaced, and some cams seem to need a bit of worked to get dialed in properly to the cam card or to your own personal preferences for powerband delivery. It doesn't hurt to measure and find out for sure, but many have run drop-ins...

You could do a custom two piece flywheel spacer for the Z33 trans setup that converts it from 5 to 6 bolt. Closest thing I could find: http://offroad-review.com/new/index.php?PHPSESSID=142d7b3f1338398477190863d3640745&page=79 Or, you could mill the heads off of the flywheel bolts, weld them flus...

Watch out for those Mazdaspeeds. A nicely built Mazdaspeed 3 or 6 can be a monster. Stock block, bolt-on Mazda DISI MZR motors are pushing about 450-500 whp with GT30 turbos around here.

Your AFR targets look good. Good call sicks13 on the duty cycle. You may want to adjust your power expectations or upgrade your injectors. You may want to work on your tune and tuning abilities before you go to the dyno. Do some baseline tuning with a friend driving so that you can monitor condition...

Just some fuel for the fire: http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/52292-ka24e-vs-de-one-can-rev-higher.html#post461226 http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=840361742&postcount=10 Aaj2k5, please upload your actual spreadsheet and not just a .jpg of it for us to check out. I like the fa...

That's different. Interesting. Why front facing like that? Seems to cause a slightly funky downpipe route. Is there a radiator in there somewhere?

I think the spacing of the bore centers on the L20 vs KA and thus the journal centers could be an issue with that crank. Hopefully not, but I guess you'll find out soon enough. A budget option like that would be nice.

Interesting side read on possible U60 crank from L20B in KA: http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.ph ... 7&start=30