www.ka-t.org

the whole thing is too long(not the line) and it will eventually crack. I did the same thing back in 97 when I first turboed my KA. I ended up removing the plug on the oil filter housing and re-tapped it for the turbo feed.

The oil feed is too long. The vibration in the KA will eventually crack it.

FWIW,

Mike

I'd like to see this in person. I'm in Laveen... what part of Glendale are you in?

Are you on az240?

Mike

some recent pics of my car

Well, people want that extra little bit of security, which is fine and dandy, until you over do it and pull the threads out or snap a stud or whatever..... higher torque doesn't always equal higher clamping force. You want to torque a stud in the stretching zone where it has some elasticity for max...

kxmike87 wrote:read this one a while back but wondering about E85 fuel as a alternative to the higher octane at least to be on the safer side than 93 octane

Yes E85 is over 100 octane however you have to tune for it.

1G BOV's open at idle and screw all kind of things up. I'd dump it.

it probably is knock from your description. You need a tune.... a turbo car needs to be tuned over the whole map, not just under boost. Remember even under vacuum you turbo can move more air than stock and/or the turbo does create back pressure that a NA does not see.

There is no given amount of boost that is safe. There are lots and lots of variables. Thats a true statement right there (and +1 for duncan's post above also).........the point I was trying to make is that the KA-DE head's combustion chamber design is more prone to detonation when compared to, say ...

There are so many factors in this that it's not even funny. How efficient is yourintercooler? or what kind of intake temps are you getting? How much back pressure between the head and turbo backside? what compression are you running? How high does your ambient temps get? How good is you cooling syst...

Yea, it has to be detonation. I can only scrounge up 92 octane here in minnesota so I guess I have to be more carefull. The only thing im concerned about is obviously, cylinder 4 had no compression, but why would the other ones be low also???? obviously you've been detonating for some time. You may...

Ouch... looks like detonation. too much timing / not enough octane would be my guess. What was the octane you were running?? #4 is most prone to detonation at it's the last one to get fuel and coolant. In my car I actually feed 4 first and the regulator comes out the front. A lot of hp cars in the p...

check your distributor timing.... it's probably off.

I would move it immediately.... you may end up blowing out your front or rear main seal one day and that would be a big headache.

I did 55X RWHP with a single 255 walbro... but others are right... it's approaching it's limits there.

What are the power goals/at what boost level? should do low 400's at 7-8 psi.... stock block. I don't need another fast car since I have my 240 so this is just to make up the lack of power in my Z. I got a buddy with an aps tt kit on his z and he made 435whp on 7psi stock block stock head. Do you r...

So this is a single turbo setup? If so, how does the turbo get exhaust pulses from both banks with it being on one side? the engine bay looks kinda cramped, so you can't see the details. But if it is single turbo, it probably works like most other single turbo 'V' engines. One bank wraps around the...

nissanfanatic wrote:What are the power goals/at what boost level?

should do low 400's at 7-8 psi.... stock block. I don't need another fast car since I have my 240 so this is just to make up the lack of power in my Z.

don't worry my 240 will be back on the road soon too :twisted: my latest boosted ride. It's a pre-production Power Lab kit. Installation and testing by Intense. GT35R, 550 cc injectors, Walbro fuel pump, Tial wg and blow off valve, UTEC ecu with custom tune, Vbands everywhere. The quality of this ki...

There is no real simple way to read knock. The best way to see one is on an oscilloscope. That is why most manufactures ignore the knock sensor at WOT and other parameters. All the knock is is noise and the knock sensor is a mic trying to pick up a certain frequency range. Also if you knock hard eno...

So, it is a longer rod with a shorter pistion? if it still comes to be the same length, why would this be a better set up? from http://victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm The ratio between the connecting rod length and the stroke length of a motor greatly affects the way it performs, and how lo...

You're probably just paying for the Nissan Motorsports name. Will those rods handle a beating? Yes, they have been run in race motors and are proven. Are they worth the money? I would say they are one of those parts people will buy because the name and the proven record of them is there, but compar...

TanManS14 wrote:Lol, yea, its like grand canyon type valley in the middle of those things lol. I got excited, I thought someone tried eagle rods...
Tanner.

it's the focus that makes it look that way. .... they are 8.5:1.

New internals for the motor I'm building. Nissan Motorsport rods (insanely expensive carillo rods). http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i40/s13turbo/_H0J8460.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i40/s13turbo/_H0J8455.jpg http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i40/s13turbo/_H0J8435.jpg tool steel wrist pin...

well if it's a stock regulator it should run a little rich as the factory one can't even return enough fuel for a 190lph pump.

it's the red coolant temp sensor plug that is loose. the vibration from revving it causes the gauge to act funny. tighten it up and it will go back to normal.

I'd go new crank.... balancing Japanese motors is a waste of money for the most part.

ok I'm confused show me how honda's make any torque on any engine?

http://www.redline808.com/dynoproven.html

if you look at the list here any Honda making near 500 is making less than 400 ft lbs of torque.

torque will always continue to fall off on the top... besides u really don't need torque at higher RPM's (see any honda engine). And diminishing returns will hold true no matter what turbo as you approch the limits of flow of the head, cams, etc.

And you lost about 70 ftlbs of torque in a matter of 1300rpm. Technically, you could stop revving your motor at 6000 and tell people that your power NEVER dropped... but what good does that do? Plus it took you just about 30psi to make 536whp out of a 2.4L.... well as you boost higher you get dimin...