www.ka-t.org

heh I would like to know what other people used as well....mine is pretty brokeback

This just started happening.

I'll check the MAFS when I find my stupid voltmeter...

Keep the suggestions coming

Situation: Driving, car will go rich (10's) while cruising. Can't give it any throttle, just chokes it out. Have to wait for it to stop being gay, which usually takes a minute - then it comes back. Setup: I have T3/T04E turbo, 550 precision injectors, Def ECU, I don't know what else is really impor...

I also re-tapped the bleeder screw for 1/8" NPT and just screwed the sensor in there, works great.

WOW YOU HOMO ITS ABOUT TIME !!!

by the way it's Leigh's buddy Andy - Red hatch

Oh damn I was supposed to have my speakers on?

I might be crazy, but I dont hear anything

I want that manifold... Lookin good.

Original in it's gayness. So it doesn't count.

That's the gayest thing I've ever seen. Hands down.

Electronic gauge.

I filled my mounts with window weld - stiffer but not crazy.

My oil pressure is reading 40psi on cold start, and when it warms up I'm reading around 30 at idle. Driving around: When I get off the gas from about 3000 RPM it will dip from 40 -> 20 then come back up to 40...It never really goes above 40, but I'm also afraid to really rev it. I have oil. I'm not ...

I agree with LigouriRd. I had this problem and I had to spend some time with shims. Either its this or your pinion bearings are gone.

so youre saying that youre only pulling 3 inches of mercury at idle?

I love all of those choices except the last 2....do one.

Even 550's are getting close to 100% duty cycle. Play it safe.

I'm gettin crap on my bumper / tail lights too, although my head has had all the seals and everything replaced so I don't think it's the guides. Also main seals and oil pan are not leaking...

I'm sure just gapping it to whatever AMS does will work, but it would probably be smart to call Weisco and ask them what you need to gap your rings to if you're running 18 lbs. I have CP, and the gap was not what AMS posted, I might just be paranoid about it but it couldn't hurt...

Call them up and ask, it depends on the amount of boost you want to run.

DAWG wrote:

jnt82 wrote:cut off the roof


you're welcome in advance

comments like that make me thank of people like you as a fuctard .... if you dont have any kinda information that can REALY HELP than keep that crap to your self ....

Go kick his ass Stone Cold!!!

OVERBOOST!!! Do it man.

I don't have time to look right now but i think you line up the shaft pin with that groove, then when you stick the distributor in you can see that the dot right next to the shaft pin will be lined up with that groove now .. if you have your valve cover off. TDC to set for is #1, and when it is abou...

cut off the roof

Could it be that you messed up your mechanical timing? Did you follow the FSM when you were assembling? I couldn't start mine at first because I was confusing the 2 dots on the distributor shaft, make sure that you are lining it up with the correct one.

Ya it's pretty lame, you could try to do it without taking the manifold off, but it would make it a lot easier with it out of the way.

The knock sensor does pull timing

Yeah, thats where you do all those 5 wires, the others I taped up.

I did the swap and everything works fine except for the cluster. Not sure if I wired wrong or the cluster is bad/wrong year, but the guy said it was from a DOHC. The problem is nothing on the cluster works, clock, gas, temp, nothing, also when I turn the lights on the back lighting flashes when I op...

no problem

If it's running hot and not making power, kinda sounds like you're either pulling a ton of timing, or check and see if your timing is set correctly, 20*.