www.ka-t.org

I must be going crazy, I can't find that manifold anywhere.

I know this is an old thread, but CXracing has another manifold for the KA that should be added to this list. It appears to not have any fitment issues, but I have been searching for somebody running it with larger turbos and have yet to find anything at all. http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mvc...

Those spacers are meant for wheels that have clearance voids where the studs from the hub would be sticking out. Like this: http://site.ichibausa.com/Dave/open01.jpg http://site.ichibausa.com/Dave/open02.jpg Is it all making sense now? the 30mm has longer lug bolts on it for some reason. :? ill try...

I want a 240 without a motor too!

Looks good.

Its always the battery terminals or the wires.

Nissan engineers were smoking mad joints when they crafted S chassis battery terminal connectors.

I sell DOM tubing at the hardware store I work at. We will sell you 10' and upwards. We even stock the heavier DOMs for suspension parts/etc etc. If your a fab shop and you use a particular size alot, you would be better off buying a good qty to save some money and get free delivery or something lik...

Meh its not that long.

The basic idea is to push the air back through the device which metered it.

dam i never knew the safc's where so amazing. Yeah I dont know about a SAFC but a MAF translater will do the trick. I'm sure its in the same price range too. still no timing adjustment. if you only want 8 psi max those are fine. if your just going to use one of those then you might as well just use...

You might need to rebuilt your Engine Bay for this turbo kit installation

For real.

Don't forget to charge the system properly after replacing!

Could be the coil... from what I hear, you should never solder a wiring harness. Always use crimp connectors. That could be your problem. If you go to test the coil, make sure you test it on the correct setting, I bought a new coil thinking mine was bad, but it turned out that ohms of resistance ne...

Yes, two different sensors. The gauge cluster sensor and the gauge itself isn't really worth anything accurate.

Ball joints! Tie rods! Upper camber plates!

no its richer if you removed the exhaust gas or (egr). cause the exhaust gas will dumb down the afr's to stock ratio. and if you remove the egr and not give it more gas to cool the cylinders down it will run to lean. and that will over heat every thing . its realy not more gas the hotter and the le...

Sounds like you are at the limits with that clutch... I couldn't find a single TQ rating for it.
Spec lists their Stage 4 at 380 ft/lbs. Their stage 3+(?) is 485ft/lbs.

Haha those "left handed drill bits" are called easy outs. Same thing.

If your looking for the best penetrating oil, try to find a brand called Kroil. It is the best **** I have ever used.

Have you checked the harness over with a mulitmeter? What are you looking for specifically? S13 KA-E or DE, S14 OBD1 or S14 OBD2, upper or lower harness? What turbo? Location?

I think KA24E's run R12. Sounds expensive to fix IIRC.

Swap a SR20 in.

There just isn't enough cars out there...

Are your fuel lines reversed at the rail?

Crash33 wrote:Alright how long of a flex pipe should I get?

It doesn't matter really. Whatever you can fit.

If your only making a downpipe, you only need two 90s, not even.
The radius of them is more important, however.
You wanna keep things pretty tight on the first bend down, then the next bend that rides the floor pan can be a tad wider.

I would add a small flex section while your there.

z240xs wrote:the JVT is also great quality in my opinion and the WG is mounted right off the side great access i do say so

Not to mention, exhaust will flow in there real nice.

$2k is definetly not enough for what you want out of it. You need $3500 MINIMUM.

You might be able to knock it down finding used parts, but then you lose your reliability factor by using used parts.

I got parts from rockauto in one day once, but they did ship out from my home state. If your going to tear down your bottom end, I would suggest at least adding a nice forged piston set, just in case you get the itch. I don't know what their rebuild kit comes with, but when it comes to main/rod bear...

John_R wrote: I just hate spending $50 a tool just to check a problem, when I could spend $150 for new gaskets and head studs. *grrr*

Yeah, but you get to keep the tool. Its almost a bonus.

What clutch can you use for this? Will a NA Z32 flywheel even bolt onto a KA crank?

Thats the dropping resistor for the tranny. Makes for smoother shifts. Lots of auto guys remove it and it gives the shifts a little snap. I did it when my car was auto. Later, I cut the plug off and used it somewhere else lol.

Yeah, it does fuel and spark.