www.ka-t.org

ohh snap yeah man thats too much. If it were at 181999 then you would be ok.. but 182000 is too much.

it took summit almost 2 months for backordered parts on my last order. I wasn't in a hurry to get them.. but damn 2 months. They were just earl's fittings too.

I say ground problem as well. Could be the ground connection on the back of the gauge. My autometer oil pres. gauge did exactly what your saying. I just twisted the gauge a little and it would start working. I eventually fixed the ground and it worked fine ever since.

my machine shop just charged me 540.00 bux for a .020" bore, cleaning the block, micropolishing the crank, new freeze plugs, deck the block, file fit rings pin fit the pistons and balance the whole rotation assembly. Sounds like a good price to me.

glad to have you aboard. You offer some pretty good prices from what I see.

happened to me running a -3an feed line. I put in a restrictor and i guess it restricted too much... since the turbo had alot of shaft play in it after only 500 miles.

I went with the AMS ring gap specs. They shoot for huge HP and I hope for about half of that. I will prob stop around 400 hp tho.... thats when it gets really expensive.

I would put the ring gap a little tighter then factory specs....but remember not to have them too tight, dont want them to butt up when they expand from the heat you DON'T want a smaller gap than the stock spec. With the added heat of the turbo cylinder temps are higher. With higher temps the rings...

when doing a rebuild the head studs have to be replaced. They are torque to yield bolts, meaning they do stretch to some extent and should not be re-used. I always replace my main studs because the first time I re-used my main studs I snapped one of them during the final torque. This was to spec... ...

ordered mine along with the hammer shift knob. I noticed my ordering history with you guys... holy crap i've spent alot of money there.

MSN: sk8142@hotmail.com

Ivan split the block he was using. AMS/turbo240 is moving into a new shop (larger) so i'm sure they are all busy with that. They will be around.

cool setup man. I really like those wheels on the coupe. You were'nt lieing when you said quick throttle response cause that thing revs up really quick.

One thing... if your going to stick with the stock mech. fan you should really use the shroud. That funnels the air through the radiator.

ring gap sounds good man. You can do a running compression test. Just start with plug #1 with the 3 remaining in and start the engine. That will give you running comp. numbers.

what was your ring end gap set at? Its possible that your rings are butting up against eachother causing the cylinders to be very tight and giving high comp numbers.

First get another comp. tester and do the test again.

3 actually

long story short... if you want something done correctly.... do it yourself. I had two motors chew up main bearings due to engine builder problems. I gave up on the SOHC and moved over to the DOHC.

Hey guys/gals heres another ka-t build thread for your enjoyment. I have been collecting parts for about a year now and its almost time to put it all together. So below is a list of parts going into and onto the motor. Engine: ka24de Turbo240 rods Arias 8,8:1 pistons ARP head, main, and rod bolts AC...

wow man very nice. Glad you came back.

ohh sorry i misunderstood you. I don't think you get a choice... at least I didn't. the first set of arias pistons I had were high silicon and the second set are non silicon.

Did you check out the link i provided? That gives the info on how to determine if your pistons are high silicon or non.

RBbugBITme wrote:Why don't you go directly to Arias? What were you reading btw?

if you asking me, I was reading the spec sheet that came witht he pistons.

I havent installed them yet. Did yours have the star stamped into the bottom of it?

I posted this exact question on the AMS/turbo240 forums asking about the silicon. It turns out that our pistons (at least mine) don't have the silicon in them. I never got a reply from anyone overthere.... nor did I get one here. I just gave my machinist the spec sheets and let him deal with it. htt...

well man you had a great run with that motor.

Are you talking about the small squar connector thats at the base of the dist. plug? If so.. then NO I never had that hooked up to anything.

you can put the SOHC pistons in the De motor. It will actually raise the compression if I remember correctly. If I were you... i'd just spend the 500 bux for a set of forged slugs to put in there. Its worth the money.

thats a HUGE bi*ch!

kxmike87 wrote:stock crank isnt forged from the factory and neither is the bottom end

you are wrong.

blah

I call lifters... take it out on the highway and drive it for 20 minutes or so.