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Update, took the car to smog and the tech wouldn't smog it because CO was too high. CO is an indication of running rich or there are partially burned fuel left over. Went back home, checked for air leaks, cleaned air filter, and used a multimeter to test the maf, CTS, TPS, ignition coil, and injecto...

Took off head, got it decked and cleaned a little, lapped and cleaned the valves, installed a new head gasket, new valve stem seals and head bolts. Car doesn't smoke anymore. At least for now. Runs good too. Will smog and see how it goes.

Sorry guys, I meant head bolts. I guess I'll have to replace them. I just took pictures of the head, didn't even try feeling the cylinder wall so I'll do that. So either valve guides and/or seals. Here are some more pictures: http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss237/chue240sx/1993%20S13%20Vert/Smoki...

Just go to the auto parts store and see if they have it in stock for comparison and match up.

So you guys think the block, pistons, and rings are still okay? My brother says that that drip down the cylinder wall can possibly be leaking coolant from the headgasket. I might just replace the valve stem seals and seats since they're not so expensive. Should I reuse the old head studs? I know it'...

My car started smoking a while back and just a couple weeks ago it started burning oil real bad. Did a compression test and surprising all cylinders were showing great numbers. Did a leak down test with my brother and found that cylinders 1 & 4 were leaking bad. Cylinders 2 & 3 were okay. To...

Problem solved! After fiddling with the fuel system, I narrowed it down to a weak fuel pump so I bought a new one and now the car works fine.

Turned out that even though the fuel pumps I used work, they were weak and did not deliver enough fuel pressure.

Switched the pump. Problem is the same. If I use starting fluid it would start fine, but die instantly once the fluids run out. The pump does prime and when the engine is actually running, I can hear the pump running. Even checked the voltage and it shows 12v. If I step on the gas pedal, car seems t...

Update: Changed the FPR and it did not fix the issue. Still won't start. Next thing I did was hooked up a 12v directly to the fuel pump to fun it continuously and then tried starting. This time the car started without starting fluid but the engine shakes really bad, doesn't idle, and dies 2-3 second...

Everything is stock including fuel components. Have not checked hard lines for blockage. When the pump primed, I can see a full stream of fuel flying out of the hard line.

I don't have the fuel pressure gauge anymore and haven't received the fuel pressure I bought.

I have all 4 on my s13 vert for about a year now daily driving. Some roads around here are nasty but they still hold up fine. Nothing loose and no noises. I've had Ichibas before, you can't really tell the difference.

Rented another fuel pressure gauge to test my fuel pressure, unfortunately this one also shows 0 when the pump is priming and when the engine is running. When I tested the fuel pump, it was working fine. I can hear it spinning fast inside. Also, when the car was running, I felt the fuel feed hose at...

Tested fuel pressure but it shows 0psi when the car is not running and when the car is running.

Maybe gauge is not working or fpr is out.

I'll try to get another guage to confirm. I did hook it up between the filter and fuel rail too.

Update 12/11/12: Used starting fluids and was able to start up the car. It would idle for at least 20 minutes b4 it starts choking and shuts down (w/out starting fluid being spray after startup). If I don't use starting fluids, car won't start though. I'm stumped? Should the car die a short while af...

Replaced knock sensor and O2 sensor. No codes know but car still won't start. It'll crank but not catch on.

Unplugged maf and car still won't start.

Next, will try spraying starter fluid to see if it'll start.

Good to know you fixed it.

Swapped out the distributor but it still acts the same. Probably just going to replace the knock sensor and 02 to see if that fix the problem.

Car has about 200,000 miles. Not sure if any of those were ever changed anyways.

Updates: Unplugged maf but car still wouldn't start. Cleaned it also but car still won't start. Checked for injector leaks but no leaks. They seem to be spraying fine when I cranked the engine. Maybe could be fuel filter causing low pressure? Swap sparkplug wires and same thing. Pulled codes and got...

That's what happened to me last time. I thought I had the distributor right but sometimes it gets tricky. You have to be real careful with putting the distributor in since it turns when it goes in. If they're torn, fuel basically escapes through the rings and into the intake chamber hall and cylinde...

On a rainy morning driving to school cruising around 60mph, the car suddenly starts choking. If i let go of gas and lightly step on the gas pedal so that the car holds steady at around 50mph, it was okay. If i try to accel, car chokes and i can't accel. When i finally pulled over, it idles around 12...

If fouling could be leaky o-rings even if you have new injectors. Also could be that your distributor is off a tooth if you took it out to try and fix timing.

Welcome to the east bay! I'm in Berkeley right now, but as of right now, no 240's in my possession. Should have came early and we could have tuned my gt30r setup man!

Car: 1995 240sx, I believe it is an obd1. Problem: check engine light is on due to code 14: vehicle speed sensor (circuit). I replaced the sensor with a new genuine nissan speed sensor. Light goes off for a couple days of driving but comes back on. I can erase the code and it'll just do the same thi...

do a compression test or maybe your thermostat is or rad cap is bad. Check the basic stuff first.

Good news. I was able to remove the exhausting housing. After a patience and a few trips to the auto parts store, I searched out some tools that worked perfectly that does not require any hitting or banging. It's a timing gear puller I believe. Here's a link: http://www.oem-tools.com/products/show/2...

Did you change anything about them when you took them out of your sr? If not they should fit fine. Place a 8mm long socket on top of the injector, in the middle part, with the injector going in the fuel rail. Then use a hammer and tap the injectors until it falls into place and then screw on the cap...

Yeah, I'm using the TurboXS knocklight. I am going with the gt30r. I just need to clock the dang exhaust housing. Haven't tried doing it again since the first time. It's seized and a pita to do anything.

yeah, already have nds, just waiting on my consult plug to come in then i'll datalog with afrs.

2nd to 5th gear pull, 30-110mph at 10.8psi wastegate spring http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zD8yEzLnjhQ You can see it my knock light shows that it knocks at around 5000-5200rpm. I don't know why? AFR seems to look good. Could it just be the enthalpy tune? let me know what you think. Will up the boos...

rb20 flywheel and 350z clutch ftw!!