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Thats the way I have mine routed, except my VC is routed to the intake also. Ok… so both your crankcase & your VC are routed to the turbo intake..?? How could the turbo possibly extract the crankcase gas now that you have "sealed" up both vents..?? Don't you have to have some kind of ...

let me ask you guys about my crankcase evap method..... because this is what the catch can is ultimately for i will remove my pcv, put in an open air fitting, 3/8 npt to hose barb... then take a hose from that fitting and attach to the catch can inlet then from the catch can outlet to my turbo inlet...

What do you guys recommend for a GOOD quality catch can..??

How about this setup…?? Remove the pcv and place a normal 3/8 npt to hose barb…. (to replace the pcv) Attach a hose to the hose barb…. The other end of the hose to a catch can… The other end of the catch can to the turbo inlet…. The valve cover gets a filter… So now while at idle & cruising &...

I seriously doubt that the air/oil separator box can get clogged. If you've ever looked at the insides of one, it's fairly open. You'd have to run some serious gunk through it for it to get clogged. However, the PCV valve is a pretty small opening with a spring holding it close, so they can definit...

Right now The hose coming off the Pcv is VTA ... So there is no vacuum pulling the Pcv open to extract the crankcase fumes ...
Also right now I have a hose from the valve cover going into a glass bottle catching my blow by which looks like milk ... Lol but my oil pan oil is clean ... !!

Does anyone know if these get clogged over time ..?? My Pcv has not been in use in a LONG time, I removed the 4 hoses from the runners and sealed the ports on The manifold and just took the hose off the Pcv and just shot it straight down ... I knew what the Pcv was for but back then I didn't really ...

sdaigle240 wrote:i took a drill to my pcv fitting and just put it back on. id like to just get a new barb all together, the pcv's ID could def stant to be bigger. pretty happy running VTA for at least the past 5-6 years.

what is the benefit of it venting to atmosphere in your opinion ??

Qemyst wrote: -PCV delete (venting to atmosphere via open fitting)

am i understanding this right when i ask that you do NOT have the pcv in there anymore…?? Assuming that you have an open fitting on the air/oil separator box so that its open all the time..??

So I just purchased a 2012 frontier with 26 miles and now it's up at 280 miles. My question to you guys is what should be the proper break In ..?? We are planning a trip up to north Carolina at the end of February and it's about a 600 mile drive and I would like to take my truck rather than her suv ...

well if its going to be out of the car then just pull the oil pan and pull the pistons and re-ring them wouldnt take no time. but yea for a daily it would be ok to drive on but he may use a little oil but nothing horrible. i was told to do a leak down test and see if its leaking anywhere… They said...

ok for what? boosting no prolly not. daily driving sure its for my nephew.. he overheated his other motor petty bad beyond repair and this is the ONLY used motor i could find locally at a junk yard… and thats what it tested cold. I just don't wana clean it, swap parts and drop it in to find out tha...

Junk yard 98 Altima ka motor ... Cranking with starter and battery wot .. I get 120, 120, 110, 110
Is this ok for a cold motor ??

.There is also a lot of breaking down of gasket material between the coolant passages and cylinder ring on cylinder #2 Now I did notice that from the new gasket to the old one, cylinders 1-3 coolant passages are blocked off where on the old one, some of the passages are somewhat breaking apart like...

schmauster920 wrote:There is a common problem, the intake manifold can leak coolant to the #1 runner since the coolant jacket is right there, be sure you have RTV around that water port and make sure the intake manifold bolts are tight!

This is an Altima ... Not a 240 ka, sorry I didn't mention that...

Block side... http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh291/rn240sx/20121125_124201.jpg http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh291/rn240sx/20121125_124210.jpg http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh291/rn240sx/20121125_124216.jpg Head side... http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh291/rn240sx/20121125_124226.j...

i think i found your semi twin brother, body wise at least..

20 lbs on 93 octane…??? U got brass balls…!!

I know what you are saying about the blow through. Only issue with this is the cap starts to blow off. But quick fix is to used plastic epoxy. not sure about u guys but Ive been blow thru since 04 and I have never, I mean never had any of my Maf sensor caps blown off ... And they all have seen 25 p...

I'm having an issue with the OP and the review is listed here ---> http://zilvia.net/f/businesses/437446-christian-kustomz-westminister-md-very-poor-experience.html i read the entire thing and here is my take: I asked to test drive the vehicle and showed John I had the cash in hand. John then takes...

well if one hole has to be welded, then its a bad design… on that part, but the manifold itself is a bad design so…
kinda like the old school revhard manifold… got the job done, just not very well haha

supakat wrote:There is only one that needs to be welded. It is an emusa design.

ok and which one is that cause I've never heard of that design… generic I'm guessing..??

Make sure you weld the T4 mounting hole shut. i don't recall the t4 mounting holes being part of the exhaust path… neither the T3 mounting holes so leaving them open should not create an exhaust leak in any way shape or form / nor any performance issues cause they are outside the exhaust flow area…...

johnnyc wrote:also i didn't want to cut corners on the tune. thanks for the info!

well the tune is only as good as the equipment its tuning.. But that manifold will get the job done*

johnnyc wrote:ebay cast manifold

that manifold is gonna give you a lot of top end restriction…. Its not very efficient on top end…

man… i give some u u guys mad props for the amount of time, $$ and customization you put into some of these non nissan vehicles and get it to work..!!!

Dubs wrote:Sorry, didn't mean to offend anyone here.

no u didn't offend anyone, not me at least. I was just curious to know why people still use the low/high boost nonsense...
I just wanted to know what the new parameters are for low and high boost ... Since people still use that terminology...

Dubs wrote:It was on low boost due to ignition cut.

wow, do people still use that "low" boost terminology..??

while i am on this subject, what are the parameters for "low" boost and "high" boost nowadays..??

S14 Kouki wrote:For you ROB!!!. lol

aww 4 me..?? lol ur so sweet Sam.. lol

What gear was that on when u stomped on it the 1st time..??

I have that weekend off (finally) so i should be there..