www.ka-t.org

Interesting! that R13 connection to R45 does in fact provide a 5v 4.7k pull up resistor for the VR input. Looks like you're all set on tach input jumpers and pull up resistors. Very elegant solution actually. http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/html/MS3XV30_Hardware-1.4.pdf/MS3XV30_Hardware-1.4-190.html ...

So that jumper wire on the ms3x card is not what I was thinking it was (not for your cam input). Which number pin is that connected to on your ms3x connector - 30 or 27? Good news is that the ms3x card has a built in jumper for cam input, described on this page of the manual: http://www.msextra.com/...

There looks to be a jumper wire (with resistor covered in hear shrink) on the ms3x card... What are those connections? If it's the cam input pin then you may already have a pull up for your can signal

That is a great deal! Yes, if you take hi res pictures of both sides of the ms3 withoit the covers on, we should see what's going on. For the relay, try not to think of it as providing "power"; what the relay is doing is providing a connection to whatever is on the other side of the switch...

Just saw your post in between mine. In that case, please take some pictures of your mainboard and see if there are any jumper wires leading anywhere... maybe we can see if the miata guys need the same pull ups.

Trust me, I appreciate the **** out of you helping like this. No problem my man! I just got reconfirmation from Matt and DIY that it would not matter or be an issue to put 116 on pin 2, his words were "Main board ground pins may be used for shield ground or signal ground; the board does not di...

oh man... editing my post now to get you links to the actual page.

I appreciate the detailed response. I only did multiple wires to the 47 and 30 circuits because Matt from DIYAutoTune said Nissan had multiple inputs like that possibly for redundancy in case something went wrong with one of the wires, so at least there is some fault tolerance I guess? In fact, pro...

Was there another thread about this? Let's keep them together (or was that your build thread?) Comments: Main power feed, pin 28 - do not need all three. I only use 47 per the DIYPNP docs Crank tach in, pin 24 - do not need both. I only use 30 per the DIYPNP doc O2, pin 23 - it is correct that 19 is...

I honestly can't remember how I did it, but believe that's the approach I took (chaining the flywheel to the bellhousing holes)

Looking good, enjoy denmark!

Wow, too cool.

You should be able to start with the DIYAutoTune basemap scaled for your injectors via reqfuel. Your biggest problem is likely to be mismatched timing. I wouldn't worry too much about it until timing matches. You can rough it in with plugs out (allows cranking speed to be faster) AND ALL FUEL SHUT O...

I'm with ya on the back/disk issues. Very painful and intrusive.

Killer idea on the clear tubing to gauge the recirc tube!

Sounded like good instruction as well! Nice video, thanks for sharing

I occasionally got kick back on stock stock disk, but I blame that on a small battery and slow crank.
Just try to get a timing light on it as quick as you can to see where you're lining up
I ran a full two years I believe on the stock disk

Nice! On stock cas disk or DIYAutoTune's 12-1?

Are you using the stock coil with power transistor? If so, ignore the high current drivers - those are only used for dumb coils (controlling 2 wire coils with the ground switched side directly or coils that don't have built in high power transistors/ignitors, or dumb coils that are using high power ...

Looking fresh! Why not install your turbo oil pan with a brass plug? I've never removed the oil pan inside the car, but never want to either.

lol, my man! good to see you again. That's where you have a one up on me for experience - I've never driven a T2 ka before, but can't imagine needing any faster spool than what I've seen with .48 and .63 hot side T3/T4's, and especially not for sacrificing the power band and top end breathing. In my...

Signed. Mofos.

Agree, I personally would not go thru the effort for a t2. Makes some sense when you're a dohc and can score a t2 manifold for 100 bones.

If you had the flywheel bolted on and accessible, you can chain the flywheel (using a pressure plate bolt) to the block. That's how I've always attached the flywheel bolts anyways, and they are bolted with similar torque

Video is set to private

Your build thread is timing right with my winter plans! Right after a kaaz 2 way came up for sale, I saw your install and felt comfortable with what I had to do and snagged it. Thanks for posting the help pic even though you didn't use it! I'll be sure to report back and let you know how it works ou...

Meant to respond but never got there. I would feel comfortable using the ka24de map as a safe start. The combustion chamber design for the single jingles dictate that we will have a few degrees more advance than dohc kas. For reference, peak torque and 0 psi, I run 26 (or maybe 28) degrees (where th...

As long as you're providing key on switched 12v and ground to the ecu connector in all the pins that the stock harness provides, you should be good. That and running all of the sensor inputs and signal grounds like the stock connector. If you don't have any interest in ever plugging a stock ecu on, ...

Agree, looks like IAC

Cool video Adam, thanks for making and posting it!

if you unplug the vacuum line, are you sealing the line off or allowing a big boost leak?