www.ka-t.org

why didn't you buy the stimulator?

It lets you test the board prior to install to be sure that you didn't **** it all up....seems like a no brainer.

Actually...its cast steel. I work with high temp castings for a living, The part is most likely stress relieved after casting, but before machining - this is just a guess, we do it with all of our parts to eliminate high stress areas in the metal, and to get better end material properties. Drilling ...

I've got the HKS waste gate set at its lowest setting, so not really building any boost. For the 25 miles I put on it, I tried to get a bunch of 75-80% WOT pulls, with plenty of heavy vacuum decels to get some decent sealling out of the fresh rings. Changed the oil once after start up, and just befo...

BODY WORK..............***** kill me........................but its just about ready for its debut.

Need to fix a small coolant leak (**** GODSPEEDs ***** manifold) and re-install the center console - I've put ~25 miles on it so far, besides the tranny needing some new syncros it drives great.

370ccs are not good at all for 300hp, you will max out your injectors and risk going lean and blowing up your motor. At least get some 1000cc. If you run e85 on 1000cc injectors with your setup, you will get around 350-400 without any worries of detonation. E85 is almost impossible to detonate with...

saying the pump doesnt prime makes it sound like a clog, but reaading the rest of the posts - am I correct in infering that the pump does not turn on at all? STEP 1 confirm that you have a good pump - I know that you just bought it, but electronics can sometimes be bad right out of the box. hard wir...

you need to find out why he blew that head gasket.... possible things to check - the front timing covers NEED to be decked with the head/block. If not they can cause the gasket to blow. - too much boost without head studs - overheat - improper machining on head/block All of the above should be check...

Your Idle Fuel Pressure is too high to begin with, you need an adjustable FPR, set it per the FSM. per the fsm, should be ~43 psi without reference vacuum, and ~34 with the vacuum hose hooked up to the intake manifold. Start there before you start trouble shooting anything else. in your first post, ...

shouldn't cost more than $40 to move the lines if you bend them yourself...make a heatshiled and be sure you get enough clearance between the master and the o2 housing.

brakes are important.

I still think that is ****...nobody is that stupid.

How would he remember to breathe, or operate a belt?

Do more searching, read the featured builds section. You dont need to do anything to the crank., make sure it is within spec and get new bearings, follow the FSM. You can do a mild build on a stock rebuild and have fun for a while as long as the tune is conservative, and nothign else goes wrong. for...

Horry ****!

I concentrate on work for a few months and you turn around and pull off an m90...this is the first one right?

Soooooo jealous, make me want to up and sell my turbo.

Vids NOOOOOOWWWWWWW!

Be absolutley sure you have the head/block decked with the timing covers attached - head gasket sealing issues will result if you do not. At 500 hp and above, a lot of people have had good success with oversized headstuds. AMS used to offer a 1mm oversize(11m) kit, I think I got one of the last ones...

Ahhhh,

I had a quote for forged Steel Bilet, I think 4030? Basically like the old school Crower Rods.

$2K local seems pretty high, I got a quote from a shop that does NHRA rods, and even with MP59 rod bolts it was under $1K. You definately need the custom rods because the L series rod jounals are .200" too small. I spent a day with my machinist going through every catalog he has access to, and ...

why the hell would anyone wanna destroke the ka. the torque is great and the stock crank has been revved to 8500. ati damper n good balance is the key. look at some of the guys dyno sheets 500hp/500tq at 5000rpm now why on earth would u wanna rev to 9 grand? b18, sr20 don't make those numbers till ...

Your friend is an idiot. you need new rings if you want to get any benefit out of a rehone. Also while the amount of material removed is practically zero, the balls are abrasive...what if one breaks. What about any abrasive that potential finds its way loose of the ball. Lots of chances to have debr...

Dont take my remarks as me being derogetory or condesending.... The orignal point of this thread was to discuss potential CHEAP/Overlooked options to get a FCW crank from an LB20 into a KA. The numbers don't lie, this cannot be done cheaply, and I stand by my assessment that what you're talkign abou...

A girdle is stronger. That is not anecdotal, it is a fact. But the real question is, why go through the effort? Any modification is possible with enough money. I never posted my build sheet, but with the car KA block, sure the L20 crank fits, but for the price invested what are you building? Its goi...

Liking the attention to detail. Its all worth it once you hear it fire up after years of just being an idea in your head.

I'll post up my numbers once I get the damn thing on a dyno - running CP 9:1s, but with deck height, piston dish and all other machining taken into account I'm at 9.08:1.

See my above breakdown....nothing involved with the L20 will just fit into a KA. You can make it fit, with the neccesary machine work, and custom rods and pistions. If you hop over to www.motoiq.com they built their salt flats record setting SR build around the same concept - prelude rods and custom...

Lots of work the past few weeks. Digital dash is functional, need to wire in a few more things, and put the interior back together. Other than that it's ready to drive, idles nice and smooth at 800ish rpms. Does not even hint at stumbling on decel, we'll see how it feels under load Clicky for linky ...

**** yeah. 3 + years of hard work, with a tone of help from my friends. I got the cooling system all buttoned up today, so hopefully after the storm were getting this weekend I can actually heat cycle the engine and get it ready for break in.

ITS ALIVE - more to come

click for video...

Made progress of sorts...had to pull the motor again because it was not rotating freely. Went to set timing and install the distributor, got about a quarter of a turn and it jammed...being that I'm using a d21 flywheel and clutch I was worried about the bell housing clearance. Worst case I thought t...

I think you hit it on the head.

The Luk Gold unit is def thicker than stock. Its prolly not playing nice with the TOB and back of the bell housing - going to split the tranny and see if any witness marks are appearant.

SO....need some ideas I'm hoping that someone has had a similar experience becasue right now I am at a loss. Motor is in, wiring is done, was about ready to start it this past weekend. I was cranking it over by hand - which I have done several times previously over the past year and something is hit...

I have no idea how your engine is effected with boost and no plenum. Your intake runners are so long, they should hold enough pressurized air after the TB my understanding was that in a boosted engine the plenum is mainly a pressure resevior, and a means of distributing airflow evenly to the cylind...

**** yeah, more red KAs!!!

sweet build. so I'm still having a hard time picturing this, is the engine in the middle, like an old previa? transverse or longitudinal mount?