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I ran for about a month on 500whp. I always felt like anything over 450lbs ft of torque wouldn't last much over a month. At 500whp on street driving, I checked compression throughout the month and watched compression drop from 170psi to 150psi on #4 cylinder. I thought that the rings didn't seal up...

I ran for about a month on 500whp. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p292/nissanfanatic240/525whpgraph.jpg I always felt like anything over 450lbs ft of torque wouldn't last much over a month. At 500whp on street driving, I checked compression throughout the month and watched compression drop from ...

240*F is fantastic for oil temps IMO. I saw 275*F at Sebring this summer and oil anaysis still came back great on Motul 300v 5w-40. If that is all you are seeing for oil temp I'd stick with the current system. I would think with German Castrol 0w-40/M1 0w-40/Rotella T6 5w-40 you would be in great sh...

I think I would sell the 2010 truck first unless it is paid off. That has to be a much higher monthly expense. Even then, maybe look for something that can do the same job for less money. Then drop the rest into some sort of interest bearing account, pay to get out of a lease and into a cheaper livi...

My car never seemed to want to do anything more than 350whp at 14psi. It seems like that should be possible though. I'd definitely do some really good oil (At least GC/M1 0w-40/T6 Rotella, or Motul 300v) and like 75% distilled water/25% coolant (Or 100% distilled water if it isn't a daily/street car...

Planning to road race at current power levels?

A good way to look for vacuum leaks is to spray suspect areas with brake parts cleaner. There will be a noticeable change in engine rpm when you hit one. The oils I would recommend would be: German Castrol 0w-40 Rotella T6 5W-40 Mobil 1 0w-40 All are cheap at Wally World. I recently went with the Ge...

My absolute favorite is when people talk about something being too expensive, but they don't jump all over that market, produce something better, and sell it for less. Nobody ever knows anything except for how much something should cost: absolute experts on what something should cost. But I wonder w...

Would you want to buy a set of pistons as "new" that a random person tried to install and failed?

I would think that most engine components are non-returnable for that reason.

I did too originally and they stretched. Now I only torque to 60lbs ft. YMMV.

What are you torquing the head studs to? I never torque past factory spec on the 10mm studs.

Seems extremely odd that you blew a Cometic at 10psi...(?) I never had a problem on Cometic+ARP up to 32psi on a T04R.

That is a suspiciously good price for that turbo. Unless the person is a good friend, I would definitely be careful.

7.2@120mph in the 1/8 sounds a bit optimistic. 120mph @1320 sounds a bit more reasonable for 420whp. http://www.freshalloy.com/showthread.php/123745-New-Dyno-GT2871R-86AR-S14-SR On an SR, so I would think full boost before 4000rpm would be plausible. You could always swap out to a .64ar housing as w...

Possible clutch springs rattling/buzzing? Very common problem on S2000's.

Something like this:

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... e=ATP-OIL1

No. I never had any issues with heat on mine. I used Stainless Steel braid line for the return line as well.

I used the secondary port on the oil filter tree for my feed and used the primary only for oil pressure. I had a T setup break on me so I was never a fan after that.

This thread has a lot of info on various timing problems:

viewtopic.php?t=49594

Sounds good. FYI, I would still check all valve seals myself before installing a head and I always will. Many people don't know to do that, including professionals. If everything is good it takes 5 minutes to test every valve and then you know life is good. I found out the hard way because my car wo...

Tested before or after valves contacted the pistons?

I bet the distributor is off a tooth. If you have a good feel, you can roll it back a tooth and try. If that doesn't work, you can try rolling it forward two teeth to try both sides of your initial timing mark. I also would have checked all the valves for leaks. You can do so with gasoline or minera...

35r would be more in the range of maxxing 1000cc injectors unless you are planning to run e85. If so, then 3076r.

How heavy/solid did that manifold feel?

I'd maybe try some ospho in a few areas to get an idea of how bad the rust is.

Anyone other than Full-Race doing a good divided T4 flanged manifold? Thinking more and more about a S362 with divided .91 T4 housing. They look insane on 4g63...

it would be very difficult to sand at home, you would have to have a plane sander, big wide belt sander that could sand it all at once to make sure that it is perfectly flat and it should be done with a grit 320 or higher. The cometics and cosworths both have a viton rubber coating to help with les...

it would be very difficult to sand at home, you would have to have a plane sander, big wide belt sander that could sand it all at once to make sure that it is perfectly flat and it should be done with a grit 320 or higher. The cometics and cosworths both have a viton rubber coating to help with les...

cmj wrote:375whp at 14psi? Are there setups that can achieve this?

I was close on an Enthalpy mail order tune and a T04E 50trim. I did 353whp at 14psi.

OMG man! This car has come so far! I still remember the old Ford Probe from the AF days.

Congrats man! Looks amazing! Can't wait to see some dyno results!

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@Rick, I agree... So much nostalgia being back on here looking at KA-T setups...

That is still weird to me. If your tune is too rich on top, then retune it. So I still don't get it. On the plus side, my Uprev tuned car is cable of storing 5 maps on the ecu and you could switch between them by using the cruise control buttons. So you could have a 'conservative' and an 'aggressiv...