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I just checked the injectors today, I pulled them out and pressurized, no leaks, so I assume injectors are good.
Maybe it's the FPR?
Either that or the ecu conversion.
Thanks for the input and as always let me know if you think of something that I haven't yet.

Anybody?

A FMU or a rising rate fuel pressure regulator purely controls fuel. The BTM, or boost timing module purely controls the ignition timing in boost. Two different things, once cannot replace the other. Personally, for your power level I would go with 370cc injectors and something to trim the fuel (SA...

If it's a low pitch whine, that's normal, if it's a high pitch whine only in reverse, check your rear brake pads. I had a whine only in reverse, turns out pads needed to be changed.

what is your hot wire set at on your safc and what maf are you running? also make sure its on 4 cylinder with the arrow facing the top passenger side. 2 in 2 out, I need to try some other settings (previous owner suggested 5 in 5 out). Right now its stock MAF, just because I'm trying to figure out ...

The tune worked (I bought it from a guy who was using it before me) I'd change the SAFC settings, but the AFR's don't seem to respond AT ALL from any setting changed from the SAFC.... Anyone think bad injector or something wrong with FPR? I didn't touch the FPR, but could something cause it to go ba...

Alright, guys, I'm near desperate at this point. First off, here are symptoms: Car idles at 9.4 AFR. I can rev at partial throttle, i can rev pretty much to red line with an AFR of 9.4-12.9. The moment I try WOT, it leans out, going right up to around 14-16, and ends up to 21 as the engine stutters ...

Ok I switched back to stock MAFS, I think it should be acceptable. at least for now, and it seems to rev fine except for the afr.... (Power goal is around 220hp) Still having a rich at idle with the AFR leaning out in higher rpm boost (maybe past 3500-4000 rpm. I think MAFS needs to be moved further...

I switched the MAF wires around, it doesn't run any different. Still 9.4 at idle, and jumps to 11-12 under partial throttle, WOT yields bogged performance and leans out. I'm at a loss here now. I still can't get this SAFC to work, since I don't have any manuals or anything, can I connect the red (po...

Alright I pulled my ECU Conversion harness and tested every single wire from ECU to the SAFCII plug, everything held current, I'm at a loss why it doesnt work, unless something is wrong with the SAFC side of the connection... I'm going to go double check the MAF in a bit, damn I hope my SAFC isn't f...

Alright, Solved all my vac problems, now, this is hopefully the last issue I need advice for. I have a tuned ECU by the guy who sold it to me, I haven't been able to get ahold of him to see what it should idle at, but currently it idles at 9.4 afr, whenever I rev to about 3k under partial throttle, ...

Ok, so are you saying having my vac sources running from the Brake booster isn't a good idea? I wanted to hook the Boost gauge up to the Vac block too, but I don't know where you can get those nipples, (if anyone knows a store that carries them, please chime in!) Do I need to change the way I have t...

Alright! I'm so excited! I thought I had an ECU problem but I got it to work! The car runs! Ok, now, I'm not going to lie, I'm not comfortable with knowledge on the Vac lines. I hooked the boost gauge to the nipple in the top picture, and got no response, so I teed into the vac line going to wastega...

Woo! My goal is to start her up tomorrow! Anyways, had a quick question regarding vac source for boost gauge. Everyone argues over FPR, and I've decided not to, but is it possible to run the boost gauge vac source from the EGR vac line (atleast I think it's vac?) http://i499.photobucket.com/albums/r...

while it's impossible to not acknowledge the honda rice i think the chevy cavalier rice is probably the worst i have ever seen. like i actually feel sorry for the cars sometimes, like seeing and abused neglected child before "Children n Families" existed lol. I personally can't stand cava...

Ok, let me first apologize for bringing something like this up again, I've seen dozens of these in search, but I want to make sure I have this right: the two vacuum lines on the top are to be blocked off (I just stuck a screw in each of them) Now, from what I've read the hardline is to be bent down ...

don't leave a cup with lemonade in your room for longer then a week. +1 I know by experience. My roommates girlfriend left a paper cup of lemonade in our room. Did you know lemonade eats through paper cups? I didn't until I tried to figure out why there was what looked like piss all over my desk an...

Funny you should ask, I'm about 3/4 through installing my setup, heres where I've had a couple of mistakes. 1# (most pain in the ass too) One of the hex bolts that run into the transmission "gusset" stripped. I spend around 8 hours cutting and drilling that bolt out. #2 Oil pressure sender...

Alright I'm currently working on getting the oil pan in out, but my friend suggested that since I was on conventional 10w30 motor oil that when I get everything in, I'm switching to Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w30, but he suggested putting in the new synthetic, running it for a bit, then change it right awa...

I have both RTV and felpro, i think i will try the felpro, seems easier, however currently the piece of **** gussets underneath the oil pan is blocking the last two screws to take off pan, but the final hex bolt holding the gusset on is completely stripped and its the biggest pain in the ass known t...

Liquid or Felpro?
Why?
Anyone have leaks/bad experience with on or the other?
Thanks,
-Tim

It's in the FSM, but its for "diagnostic purposes only" I'm pretty sure it doesnt throw codes (though IDK i'm still on stock ecu and I took out my check engine light bulb) so you can disconnect it, leave it somewhere in engine bay, whatever really

Google 240sx Starter there is a nice Nico article on starter problem and troubleshooting options.

Mine went out two days ago, it was dead, no noise whatsoever when I turned key. Good luck.

If I get an S13 connector, are the wires same? Like white to white, etc if Im making my own? Or do I have to find a diagram somewhere? Also, I'm completely new to the concept of timing, I'm going with a mild build (t25@7psi, 370cc injectors, FMIC, SAFC... Can anyone point me to any kind of timing gu...

Do I need to an adapter harness to hook an S13 ECU in S14 or will it hook right up? If so were can I find such a thing?

Alright, Audio Express only has 0gauge by the spool or 4 gauge by the foot, advanced and autozone have nothing, walmart has nothing, best buy and ultimate electronics only have nothing... I think I'll just keep searching for 2 gauge, thanks for the input guys Anyone know who has 2 gauge by the foot,...

Anyone getting by with 4 gauge wire for their battery relocation? 2Gauge is a PITA to find by the foot, a buddy of my is running 4 gauge on his NA KA24DE, just curious if anyone recommends 4 Gauge because it's conviently easier to find or recommend where to get 2 gauge wire other than lowes which is...

Well since everyone else is asking... I understand and know what a compression test is, as well as the point. Simply, what are stock numbers? I know higher = better, and that it is a good idea to be around or above 150 psi if you are looking for boost. My engine ran 185-190 psi across all 4 cylinder...

I've been doing research out the ass, most is being spent in proper tuning. I understand that most issues come from improper tuning or "experiments" lol I just want to know what else I can do to help prevent it, horsepower goals are in the lower 200's with sr20 injectors, as of right now I...

I'm aiming to drop a turbo in sometime in mid-late July Right now I'm debating either T25 7psi or possibly T28@10 psi if I can get a grip on tuning. Anyways, question, what more can I do to resist detonation, as it looks like this is the ka-t killer and I'd like this to be semi reliable So far (to r...