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If bridging does not work its the starter, or solenoid. If it does work, you need to trace the solenoed wire back until you find voltage when the key is turned over.

Gremlins!!! Try going over some bumps in neutral too.

Sounds lke you are not getting voltage to the starter solenoid. You will have to check that with the key turned over. Prob need two people to do this. Check this next. Or be brave, key on, car in neutral, take a screwdriver and "jump" from main starter wire to solenoid wire.

Hopefully my car will be turbo by the end of summer, I have been faced with the same issues, I dont want a log style manifold, but not spend the cabbage on a good one, I am going to buy some nice stainless pipe, spend alot of time prefabbing the thing, and find a someone in the area to weld it for me.

You either have a vacuum leak(prob brake booster) or the trans is not kicking out of gear propperly. Take a test ride, kick the car in neutral and brake hard. If it still stalls, Unhook your vacuum line from your booster, plug it, take another test ride and brake hard. Be careful with the booster li...

I think I have a VW in the trunk of my 240, let me check I will get back to you........

Would not by a hood in that style....but free...I love it..

HELL YES!!!! What more needs to be said!! Wicked Sick.......

Great thread! Will be useful, as I am doing a tranny swap soon. The white bunny pic is really creepy, I also read a thread where someone used a different combination and came up with a really lightweight setup that held well. I will have to see if I can find that.

Welcome! Those WV curvy roads are fun I bet....we have some decent ones here in VA too!

The "washers" under the valve springs are shims. Valve springs have an installed height, to keep the pressure of the valve on the seat the same on everyone. Also, I think your head will be fine, looks like at some point a little trash passed thru. Sand some if it is rough(any high spots) i...

Niclas_AB wrote: My M12x1.5 bolts cost me about 35$

Thanks!! Where did you get the bolts?

This is a noob question! Why timesert? Why what about retapping the block?

If its pumpin water out the radiator you are screwed?? Re-torque the head? That might help..

Nice, clean, car. Welcome!

Jordan Gladman wrote:Did you have the block machined or did you just install the new parts into your existing block? The surface doesnt look machined?

I hope you had head, block surfaced too!

Nice build, Love the tubed front clip. I have built a few front and rear clips for my dads dirt track late model, so I have alittle experience with this things. I was alittle concerned with the lack of triangulation between the main frame rails and front cage. Also did not see any strut to strut sup...

boker240 wrote: ^^^^op,,stop doing this and do this so when an issue comes up ur not likr this or this and in the end we're all like this

and this.....

blacks13coupe wrote:

I like this....

1200 hp and streetable.....ha,ha, snicker, snicker...Not that 1200hp can't be done....there is proof, but daily driving 1200hp, WTF!!! Get out the way grandma..... BTW I have had my 97 for three or four years now. I have done hours, upon hours of reading, and still wonder if I have all the info I wa...

I've got $50 on the anteater.....BTW even if it is old, I have never seen it, and its sick.....

You can get the FSM here.
http://carfiche.com/manuals023/cars[url][/url]

Try a few months of this first. It really is very useful. BTW Welcome!
search.php

I would suggest buying them...why take a chance... If the valve job is right, it does not take much pressure to seal on the seat.

Piston to bore clearance is .020mm-.040mm (.0008-.0016 in). Measured with a feeler gague. If you have not idea what that means, you should have the shop bore and hone your block, and fit pistons and rings.

What exactly are you asking? Keep it simple? Ring gapping is easy......

The are Hannabi's with fk452 rubber. Also those are 5 lug hubs, but I would be interested in the 300z brake swap and aluminum uprights, If the are the 30mm Aluminum ones....

Just a few pics.

Great write up!!! Though curious, I could see all of this working on a NA motor, but just can't see that with a force inducted motor intake design is as critical. Just as long as you are not too small to reduce flow, or too large to increase boot saturation. Please correct me if I am wrong. It's fun...

I have one installed on my 97 s14, but I still have the stock internal coil. For an external coil you can change to a s13 coil, or there is a mod you can do to the dis cap. I believe the write up is on this site....I will check when I have more time. Also I had to get a MSD tach module to get my tac...