www.ka-t.org

damn... im inspiring bros. thats whats up... all about that brotovation. thanks shift!

saweeeet sheet mang. any specific reason you tweaked the xmember again? just did mine so im curious.

Thanks my Doods! hey have at it, i throw my twist on things but of course get the motivation from other other smart bros. props to my bro toby (i think altimaDET) for showing me the fuse box location. i just live in new england and wanted to have it all sealed up. the PS idea i dunno but saw it some...

hard lined the WG setup http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/sdaigle240/Phone/20140712_003113_LLS.jpg Fuse box relocation - tight everywhere but clears everything. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/sdaigle240/Phone/20140712_173728.jpg http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/sdaigle240/Ph...

jesus... i got an hx52 on the shelf for a friends VQ and the above turbo looks huge lol. i think 52s are done in like 68 and 71 mm inducers on the compressor.

POST PHOTOS PLEASEEEEEE.... OF THE LIGHTS. LED'S ARE MEMORIZING LOL

sloooowly making progress. brake lines done, just gotta insulate with fuel line and adel clamps. also working on fuse box relocation. box is going half in the bay half in the fender well. all cut out and fit up, just extending a few wires and need to build a metal box off the chasis to keep the back...

Are you boosted? If so, get rid of the fel pro, I know all around the web you here guys saying they'll do 500hp blah blah blah. I talked to two machinists and a race engine builder, ALL told me to do an MLS gasket. And this is why I believe, it is probably possible to hit high numbers with those fe...

thank you kind sir! im going to hold off posting the picture untill its all bolted down but its got pretty serious angle. Im most excited about the reduction on turns lock to lock. from about 3.25 to 2.5 so that should translate to a lot less wheel input while sliding. thats why **** takes me so lon...

thanks supa! yeah i really like to tinker and fab, apparently almost as much as driving the thing! ...i am missing events though :( but hey motivation struck me and i went with it. Im skipping the tubs for now, between time and them not seeming completly necessary ill just save it for another projec...

LCA WErK added 1/2", box'd n notched'd, adjustable stopper and added some meat to the knuckle to accommodate it. http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/sdaigle240/Phone/IMG_20140621_194342.jpg http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/dd301/sdaigle240/Phone/20140629_222344.jpg http://i220.photobucke...

whats your oil temps at norm operating temp? if you dont know then just run that and dont sweat it.

YESSSSS! that **** works! def keeps bumpers alive. ive seen all sorts of materials used from plastics to wood.


we basically got kicked out of lime rock this year so i feel your pain. back to the parkinglots.

make friends with a welder. its def under 150 in materials.

Good to see you up and running. I think your ok on that noise. Of course tough to say without hearing. I had/have a tick/clack at idle that also goes away with revs. When I brought it to the machine shop to have a listen (I assembled though) he toyed with it and said if it goes away with revs it's l...

assuming you bought a new timing kit you have nothing to worry about. they'll last just fine another 100-150k.

just read through this. good ****. well except for the HG and foot lol. I was going to add that your eagles are likely out of round... but they come that way new lol. also, it appears as if you have an he351... which is a good thing. same turbine wheel with a 4mm larger compressor wheel. SUPA, corre...

howdy. good stuff. just wanted to add that Holset very specifically calls out the maximum allowable rotation of the CHRA which you have exceeded. i dont know what it is off hand but it might be worth getting your feed/drain holes more perpendicular. it may also just be an over precaution. interested...

yeah i look at headlight retrofits all the time lol. but thats like 300$ that could be spent on cooler stuffs. like MAX.. theyre front and rear knuckles at 400 each are just a retardedly stupid dumb deal. i dont even know how they make money, especially the rears with the spherical bearings. thinkin...

125 Amp quest alternator installed. just drilled the ears and threw a spacer behind the bracket with longer bolts. no need to cut anything. went from 13.1 to 14.1v at idle. haven't driven yet. already pleased. i used 2 oversize nuts as spacers and some leftover longer front cover bolts. drilled out...

what a beaut!

bring it back yeeehawww

hahah damn... u gotta chill at 225-230, knock on wood thats where i always stop.

jesus, i pay about 4.50 for 93 in CT. not quite CA doe.

.. huge thanks man! who doesn't love responses like this! still running the old skool calum ecu. no doubt there are better options but it works, and works well. we have a local tuner around here whose very nistune fluent so that helps too. some day id love to swithc it up though. i just have to wai...

lololololololololol

i like the progression of your style. lookin proper these days homie.

1 is Def the oil sender. The other I think is for the alternator. Def 2 separate things though

Edit... wait the left most dark plug in that picture is the oil sender wire.... hummm

if your not going to use it dont be afraid to fubar it. sounds like you need more leverage.... id try a large pipe wrench, maybe even with a jack handle over it. theres alwas torches too.

youll have to hammer in the strut tower about 1/2" or so to clearance the banjo fittings you will need to use. I have the s14 RHD master and booster. I didn't have to beat the strut tower one bit. If you tweak the lines just right, there is no beating involved. Of course, you have to add line ...

So you set your Hysteresis to 1 and the rest like mine? Looked up hysteresis and all i got out of it was something about a loop... Looks more like something an engineer would know. I will set mine to 1 and see what happens. Also, just changed out the S14 intake temp sensors to s13, so now my car is...