www.ka-t.org

Try pulling the distributor out and spinning it by hand with the key on and engine off. You should get a 0-12V signal on the signal wire that goes up and down four times for each revolution of the distributor. Do you?

According to the email you sent me, you have a DIYPNP, which is not the same as an MSPNP and uses different circuits in some case. Do you have power at pin 47 with the key on and engine off?

That is where I wanted you to check the voltage. Can you get any signal in a composite log?

Is the distributor getting 12 volts with the key on?

Under Project Properties, do you have it set for lambda or AFR?

Check if the ECCS relay is triggering when the key is turned on.

I've sometimes daydreamed about trying to build an electric car with a locomotive traction motor, but the batteries and control circuits to support one of those monsters wouldn't have been cheap.

Here you go!

Let me know what injector size you're running, and I'll post a screen shot of the MSPNP AE table rescaled for it.

BigLoukaT wrote:Seller is wrong, there is not 3.57 (which identifies SMD or surface mount device ms mainboards which are not used in the DIYPNPs) DIYPNPs...

Or it's not a DIYPNP. Can you post a picture of what you've got with the case open? There are enough MegaSquirt variants that it can be easy to get confused.

Sounds like your IAC valve. If it's annoying, the latest 3.3.1 code has an option to turn off the IAC valve until you start cranking.

Make sure spark output is set to Going High.

Hold on... is this a DIYPNP or a V3.57? The V3.57 is a regular MS2.

MostHated wrote:Are these settings the same for DIYPNP ms2/extra for an s14? My distributor started to get warm to the touch on the outside metal, which would make me guess that it was hot as **** inside. I set it up like this on a straight stock 95 KA24DE.

Are you running an internal or external coil distributor?

This is Jerry's S13 240SX. It's not a KA-T, but I thought you'd like to see it anyway. :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZuUViwZjk4o&feature=youtu.be This one has a 2JZ-GTE capable of putting 758 hp to the wheels through a straight cut, dog box transmission. Right now the chassis isn't able to g...

The IAT sensor may need to be on a different pin; that's about it.

Do you have any more details on the mod? If it's just supplying the coil with better power, it doesn't need any DIYPNP changes.

Check out the DIYBOB - it's a male ECU connector on a circuit board in a case, for making adapter harnesses.

http://www.diyautotune.com/diybob/index.html

We've sometimes had people say, "If only DIYAutoTune sold their wiring for other things besides their harnesses." Well, we've take our first step in that direction with a power and ground wire bundle: Power and ground wire bundle from DIYAutoTune.com http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/imag...

I don't need the timing cover along with it. We would want to get 10 people signed up for buying them.

i was also looking at the same thing, for whatever its worth from what i can see in the ecu pinouts theres maybe 4-5 wires that are different. 95 OBD1- http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/1995_Nissan_240SX.php 96-98 OBD2- http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/1995_1998%20Nissan_240S...

I played it back in MegaLogViewer. Usually you see the pattern you describe - but I'm seeing a few points where the long bar is absent.

You might want to experiment with turning false trigger protection off.

You're seeing an extra pulse in the middle of the missing tooth. Do you have false trigger protection enabled? Might want to change that, and be sure the distributor is grounded properly.

We'd need the whole thing so as to put together an illustrated install guide.

There are two main obstacles to this: 1. The CAS is much harder to take apart. Last time I tried, I smashed the CAS to pieces with a hammer. By accident, not out of frustration. 2. An MS3, which you'd need to run sequential on these motors, supports the stock trigger wheel already. But if you had 10...

Can you capture the high RPM break up in a tooth log and post it here? This will let me play back the signal you're getting.

We're using part number 478-1878.

Yes, the bridged pins are intentional.

We had a round of capacitors last year that seemed to be inexplicably easily fried. We've since gone from capacitors rated for 25 volts to ones rated for 35 volts and the issue has gone away.

Normally, you'd use Going High on an MSPNP unless you had some specific and unusual mods. I noticed that MSQ is not for an MSPNP - it's set up for an MS2 instead. For an MSPNP, you'll want to change "MegaSquirt / MicroSquirt Selection" to "MicroSquirt Module / MSPNP / DIYPNP." Or...

Can you post a copy of the MSQ file and a data log of an unsuccessful start attempt? That will give me more to go on.