www.ka-t.org

I looked around the Admin control panel and loosened up some of the session security options. I don't know if they are responsible since the problem seems more random, though.

Let's cross our fingers. This has been bugging me and everyone else too

I found out why the slow spool, haha: http://i.imgur.com/SMhKqkMh.jpg Picking up some sort of locking fasteners from Ace on the way home from work today. Race - sounds like if we're serious, one of us may need a trailer.. Arob - so that was you I sold my MSPNP2 to, I remember now but I totally forgo...

The build looks great! I like fresh engines

1000CC will be enough for 400hp but not much more - especially with E85.

I hope, one day, to have had as much fun in any of my cars as you appear to have had with this one alone.

Keep it up good sir

^ I don't believe there is a secondary map for 5th gear. There is a normal map and a knock map. I am pretty sure the 5th gear sensor is just for speed limiting - at least in S13 ECUs. 3k RPM in 5th - is that under boost, or just cruising? Rich in cruise could be a lot different than rich in boost wh...

I'm pretty sure brake boosters can leak, so that could be a source of a vacuum leak if you can't find any around the manifold.

What does your vacuum gauge show at idle & 1200RPM?

CSV and TXT are supported, just checked. Cheers, keep being awesome.

^ Come to think about it, I may have to agree with you. Anyone with a stock ECU with logging capabilities can tell us. I have vague memories of seeing a negative temperature value on my gauge display in Nistune.

Ignition signal problem is a big issue.

I have updated the extensions list to allow *.msq and *.msl filetypes. Matt, let me know if there are other filetypes that ought to be allowed.

The 1-wire coolant sensor is just for the gauge in your dash. The 2-wire one is the one that communicates with the ECU. Have you addressed the engine codes you pulled? 12 - MAF 13 - Coolant temperature sensor 21 - Ignition signal primary 34 - Knock sensor So let's look at everything together. If you...

Is this supposed to be in the For Sale section? Haha

Lack of coolant/radiator would not affect coolant temp sensor, for startup anyway. A breather from the valve cover to the air intake - this shouldn't be related to a vacuum leak, which part of the intake?

Definitely get a timing light though

Dang, only 4 psi? Yeah, I can't imagine that being a whole lot of fun. I built myself a little manual one so I can turn it up here soon

Ridealong video - some granny shifting. Running 12psi, coming into the low 11s on the AFRs. Still on 93 octane. Nothing crazy yet, but she runs, drives and boosts!

http://youtu.be/17CZVcBLUmM

Hmm, the TDS on Threadlocker Green says full cure in 24 hours.

What are you using it on?

http://www.permatex.com/products-2/prod ... een-detail

Put some headlights on it and took it out for some tuning last night. No luck getting my speedometer or tach to work though. The tach does bounce occasionally - I think there is some janky dash wiring going on. She rides nicely, I like these coilovers. Too bad it's ear piercingly loud, I should have...

To me it sounds like the timing is off - do you have a light to check?

Could be mechanical timing too if one of your chains is off a tooth somewhere :/

Definitely confirm no vacuum leaks

In my neck of the woods, all the machine shops around here are typically familiar with V8 engines only - luckily when it comes down to it, it's all pretty much the same stuff. When you say building an engine, are you referring to a full machining-to-assembly kind of execution? I've never done that; ...

Nope - never seen that happen. Pretty sure the reason for that cap being there is cover up the hole from boring the passages on the inside. I would replace it instead of trying to repair, though.

Injector bung pic for S14wayz

Made sticky This is a nice guide. Do you have a link to where you found your coils + harness connector, or did you find that used?

Open downpipe..oomph O_O

Now to get tuning and continuing my button-up process.

Also, I need to figure out exactly how my adjustable suspension arms work. Definitely gots to do some adjustment.

Haha cool, looks good. Put a KA in it! Haha XD

I've never really heard of stock ECUs suffering from timing drift; I would suggest following the factory procedure for checking timing. That would mean to have the car at operating temperature (180-200°F) and measuring the timing after revving to 2-3k RPM two or three times. I don't think unplugging...

Hmm..I can't really tell you what a plain RB25 would be worth, but assuming it doesn't have a knock then $1000 probably isn't bad. Maybe even if it did have a knock - I mean, buying 1000CC injectors and CP pistons new by themselves will be nearing $1000 as it is.

Got a little update, cleaned up some wiring and finished my cold pipe + BOV flange. http://i.imgur.com/YeovLM4h.jpg http://i.imgur.com/R5xdzG3h.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Ii3M81Nh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/fFwiS35h.jpg -Still need some clamps for the hot pipe. -Need to finish putting my wiring back togethe...

Yeah, I would definitely try a known-good ECU - even if it isn't chipped for your setup.

Do you have voltage on the wire that powers the ECU?

The ECCS relay on our Nissans is less-obviously labeled as "EGI Pump" in the engine bay.

The stock injector bungs are welded shut and there are injector ports further up each runner. I will try to get a good picture for you.

I'm sure if preheated and careful working - not getting it too hot will keep it from getting porous.

Tuning the VR circuit is what cleaned it up :) On the MS boards there are potentiometers for adjusting threshold voltages/hysteresis. Now to clean up the loose ends and hopefully get it on the road. I've saved bleeding the brakes for last, and I'm interested to see if the bubble flare I made suffice...

Welcome Lurking will net you a lot of good information for sure. No doubt RWD can be a lot of fun, just don't count on it for a whole lot for when/if you get snow