www.ka-t.org

If your headstud nuts are getting loose it is probably because the bottom of the threads in the block are full of crap or the last few threads need to be tapped. Next time you are in there get a bottoming tap in 10mmx1.5 and chase the threads all the way down. Clean out the holes with carb clean and...

should be 3/8" BSPT, need to tap it with an NPT tap first and you are good to go.

Where it goes into the block there is a flange. I think if you grind the flat off of that you can spin the tube around, see if that might give you enough clearance. Pictures help too.

SuperDorifto, it is cool ****. More-so than the converter electronics, just running the coils makes such a big difference. Never would have thought it mattered. More consistent AFRs and I can go leaner and richer without misfires. Without a cap and rotor it will do that for a longer time too. As an ...

Long time no update. It is tough finding time to work on the car but I believe I now have it ready for some track days this year. I have been skipping a few hours of sleep here and there and working on the car these last few months. I got a chance to commute to work for a few days back in February w...

Yes, you can use a DOHC ECU on a SOHC motor. I think you have to move a few pins around on the main ECU connector. Thanks, then my bench setup will be able to run it as-is. Your first batch looks really good. Is the front piece with the text on it a big sticker that goes over that section? Or somet...

I have no problem shipping to other countries. I looked briefly at Aussie regulations today and I don't think there is any issue shipping there. I do have SOHC crank sensors but no ECU. From looking at the waveforms the SOHC and DOHC CAS seems the same to me. So as far as I can tell you can use a DO...

I noticed the same things as far as the car driving smoother on COP. I changed nothing except for the wires and coils. I drove before and after on the same day. I was very surprised because the AFRs are smoother and the difference is even during idling/part throttle.

https://www.dagengine.com/FORUMS/COP/COP_Bv1_proto.jpg Built a couple. The text will look better on future ones I do, I bought the wrong case front for these. It's textured so the print is a pain to put on. Selectable modes: -> Diagnostics (cam/crank/ignition signal) -> Timing mode (fixed timing to...

I've noticed similar things when you rewire high amp draw devices directly to the battery. My turbo timer samples voltage from after the key cylinder under the steering wheel (pretty standard place for one of these things). When I rewired my fuel pump to it's own line, the voltage read .2 volts high...

Duncan, thanks for having a fix waiting in the wings for my next HG catastrophe. I've been through a few headgaskets and it is definitely a weak link on our motor. I have learned how delicate the situation is. I had ARPs not holding the power, only to find I needed to really clean and bottom tap the...

Alonso, This is the first time I am openly advertising this so you may be talking about another persons project. That one is by ebinkered. As I have witnessed news travels fast... creepy fast even. Anyway, the design differences are that my design is driven entirely by prediction of when the ignitio...

Not sure on cost. Winging it... $100 if I had to assemble the parts and basic harness. I would have to look into how much can be manufactured before hand. It would be nice to find a cheaper solution and offer mounting brackets and full harnesses to make it more plug and play. Yes it would work with ...

Hello all, life's been busy and I haven't been on here in a while. I am interested in hearing everyone's thoughts on this. I am considering making this for the KA and SR community if there is interest. I started this project a while ago and this summer I finally took the time to wire it into my car ...

AFR and MAF dont dip there so the motor is taking in the same amount of air/fuel. Is your knock sensor active? What is your actual timing during the pull? 16° Steady? Do more than 1 run if you want to compare two different scenarios. 3 of each would be best on the same piece of road, same direction,...

Is that from the rear seal?

RTV and gaskets bits I use a wire brush and brake clean. If the gasket is bonded to the metal you have to use a pick or screw driver.

Ahh also another dumb question but have you tried using regular crank seals from the start? I am not sure if you have always tried the reversed seal?

I would think a crank seal would work just fine or are you trying to hold a better vacuum?

wow that looks nice! how dare you actually use that flywheel! Interesting. I've been through many clutches and they all had even wear across the surface. I am not sure what else it could be. Seems like you should break it in as long as possible :(. Is the clutch disc very loose on the splines making...

Without checking the flatness of the flywheel it's tough to say what is causing it. But it would seem like the flywheel is slightly concave. I have never had that happen. What brand flywheel is it?

Global warming because: racecars? WTF?

Signed, and thank you for posting this!

Real life comes first always. I am just glad you are still working on and caring for the site.

It was a trip when I saw the old homepage!

That's a big update. Never thought I would see a model A driving around with a KA in the bed... Looks like you are ready to have some fun again with it in 2016 after the hibernation. It's been tough finding time for my projects. Anything that takes more than an hour or two needs to slowly be chipped...

The stock brackets are really flimsy. They are really only there to prevent the cables from banging around. They don't provide any benefit function-wise to the e-brake. It's up to you. If it's too difficult to do for some reason I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

I secured them crudely: I took two 5" sections of coolant hose which ID is just bigger than the OD of the cable sheath, split them lengthwise and wrapped each around the cable where it crossed near the subframe. Then I used big hose clamps (4-5" dia.) to secure each cable to the sub-frame....

Man talk about trials and tribulations. Now you are like many of us, you can never let your car go because of the time you've put into it. Some neat tricks and DIY gizmos in this thread. I cheated with my z32 brake conversion... I bought re-mfg ones and ate the core cost. Painted them with the off t...

The z32 uprights are lighter and allow you to press in a spherical bearing for the coilover connection. They came with all the ebrake crap and if you didn't buy a set from Chicago like I did you could run the drums as-is. Not a must have though. I wish we had an aluminum upright option for the front...

I ran into an issue running the rear coilovers and the z32 knuckles. Seems that the Z32 suspension setup is very short so I couldn't get the car to the height I needed for these Michigan roads. To fix that I had some +35mm aluminum spacers machined up. Basically they are an adapter that you mount to...

From 13° to 7° in that area. I'm not sure how destructive it is though, it wasn't very loud at all. It did get louder the more boost that built and after a certain point it turns into the crackle that I'm used to hearing from bad knock. But I usually would back off before it gets there. This is in t...

Update: The "chirpy" noise did turn out to be knock and 2 degrees wasn't enough to get me out of it. So I have made some big changes to my map and I have eliminated most of it. Beware of the chirpy knock!

Wow thanks for this. Good old info. Glad it wasn't lost!

I still use your LC bin everyday in my daily!