Okay this is just copy and pasted from the sicky in the Basic section. My question is at the bottom.
Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp, you have to start to expect a little more lag. This is about the perfect "street car" limit. No race gas, just good honest street car fun that is fully capable of bring home a 12 second timeslip on a good run.
Turbo Manifold
T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended.
Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that.
Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool.
Fuel Control
550cc Injectors
SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu.
MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard.
Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Megasquirt Tuning or a JWT.
Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp.
Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.
Block Internals
This is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons.
^ Im doing this similar set up, except i will be rebuilding the whole engine, not just certain parts.
Im wondering if the stock KA24DE tranny will hold with these HP out puts... So what do I need to do? Besides upgraded clutch.
Newb question here...I need help.
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If you decide on MegaSquirt, there is no need for either the AFC or any MAF.
Matt at DIYAutoTune.com - Megasquirt ECUs, fuel injectors, wideband O2 sensor systems, and more
Nissan plug and play engine management now in stock!
Nissan plug and play engine management now in stock!
based on the setup OP posted, would anyone recommend upgraded pistons? if so, would the stock compression be suggested? completely stock head? cam suggestions? stock radiator? clutch recommendations? I'm asking because i'd like to do a similar build on a harbody, daily driver. it would need to have a comfortable idle, and still have some grunt when pushed.
stock head and cams, you may want to replace your pistons with a stronger aftermarket forged set, but its not absloutely necessary, stock radiator, no. Clutch, i always go overkill with my clutch selections, im going to be using a SPEC stage 3+ SR clutch rated at 585 torque even though the most power i want right now is 450, right now im suing a stage 2+ KA clutch on my NA KA
no replacement for displacement????
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TRY BOOST!!!
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stock coolant system willnot handle 350whp. it will in the beginning but not for years,,,u will want to upgrade this or have overheating issues.
also stock drive shaft will not hold that whp either. it has a carrier bearing in the middle of it and it will vibrate like crazy. get a solid steel or aluminium d shaft.stage 3+ cluthc.
also stock drive shaft will not hold that whp either. it has a carrier bearing in the middle of it and it will vibrate like crazy. get a solid steel or aluminium d shaft.stage 3+ cluthc.
arias 8.8.1,615 tomie inj.,clevite bearings,arp 10mm hs,z32 maf,jwt ecu,intake butterflies removed,all emissions removed,cx rad. dif dual fan controller,altima dual fans,fidanza fw,stage 3 clutch,solid d shaft,j30 rearend,energy suspension bushings,kyb struts,155 lbs weight reduction.
currently n/a.
He'll probably blow the motor, and then join the army of retards who hate on KA's for no good reason.
currently n/a.
He'll probably blow the motor, and then join the army of retards who hate on KA's for no good reason.