Aluminum Exhaust?
- TinyT
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those are from unobtainium welding. he has a very successful business and does aluminum as well as stainless etc. but has great luck with the aluminum. I follow his work on honda-tech. he has done it on so many different vehicles and continues to, you will be fine. and i knew you would decide to once you saw that aluminum sex.
- Jordan Gladman
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The 240 exhaust is so simple. If you could get a length of aluminum pipe, I would just bend it and not waste my time with welding too much. Just use a single piece piece of pipe and stainless clamps for hangers.
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- TanManS14
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Unfortunately its not gonna be a KA, its gonna be coming from the passenger side of the car, so it will have a few bends. Not quite sure how im gonna route it to get the exhuast to sit up high enough in the car not to bottom out. We'll see though. I need to finish my ka intake mani so i can sell it, then i'll be pulling my motor and selling that, making mounts for the2j, start on the exhaust manifold, and do the exhaust and whatnot. It should be fun.
I like welding aluminum lol, that's prolly cause its the only thing i've welded with the tig lol but w/e, so its no biggie, the more beads the better.
I keep getting flashed by my welder when i try to weld steel. Its an auto darkening HF. But my buddy has had no problems with his and a thermal arc 185. Probably will just buy a nice mask I guess, anyone else had this problem when welding steel? For some reason it only happens on DC. With AC its fine. Here's a little video of it. Diversion 165.
I like welding aluminum lol, that's prolly cause its the only thing i've welded with the tig lol but w/e, so its no biggie, the more beads the better.
I keep getting flashed by my welder when i try to weld steel. Its an auto darkening HF. But my buddy has had no problems with his and a thermal arc 185. Probably will just buy a nice mask I guess, anyone else had this problem when welding steel? For some reason it only happens on DC. With AC its fine. Here's a little video of it. Diversion 165.
Last edited by TanManS14 on Fri Jan 21, 2011 11:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
It's always broken.
- TinyT
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I usually weld with a miller elite but I picked up a baseline miller titanium with a passive lens, (non auto darkening) for work, because its mainly just mig welding, and I love it. 16 square inch viewing area, comfortable, looks better than any other helmet in my opinion. I havent even picked the elite back up working on my car, the non auto darkening is fine. I got it for 32 dollars shipped off cyberweld and I can buy a elite auto darkening lens for it at anytime. food for thought. oh and ya, welding aluminum is fun, I love it so much more than steel.
- TanManS14
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Hmm, yea, that's the same advice a buddy of mine gave me. With the elite dont you have to press a button on it every time before you go to weld?
Do you just get used to flipping the helmet down quickly? it just seems like it would be kinda weird, not being able to see where the torch is relative to the place you want to weld when you start the arc. Im def pretty short on money so i might just end up doing that. Ima try doing a return on the mask, getting another one and see if it was just a defect or something, if it still does it i'll look into either a nicer auto darkening if i got the dough or a regular mask like you were saying.
Bout to order a new SSC controls foot pedal in like 2 seconds. SO stoked. The foot pedal for the diversion blows dick. It cuts out from 25% to bout 90% throttle lol. Plus i wear a size 13 shoe, and that pedal is made for very small midget feet.
I can tell you its definitely not fun getting flashed by that thing.
Do you just get used to flipping the helmet down quickly? it just seems like it would be kinda weird, not being able to see where the torch is relative to the place you want to weld when you start the arc. Im def pretty short on money so i might just end up doing that. Ima try doing a return on the mask, getting another one and see if it was just a defect or something, if it still does it i'll look into either a nicer auto darkening if i got the dough or a regular mask like you were saying.
Bout to order a new SSC controls foot pedal in like 2 seconds. SO stoked. The foot pedal for the diversion blows dick. It cuts out from 25% to bout 90% throttle lol. Plus i wear a size 13 shoe, and that pedal is made for very small midget feet.
I can tell you its definitely not fun getting flashed by that thing.
Last edited by TanManS14 on Fri Jan 21, 2011 11:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
It's always broken.
- TinyT
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ya ***** that. no there is no putton pushing with the elite. I think I push one button after I change a battery, and not again for several months.
when I tig I always have the side of my hand resting on something, so I get to where I want to start the arc, flip the mask and hit the pedal. The elite is a lot nicer, but I havent welded with a non auto darkening in years and it took no getting used to when I got my other helmet.
when I tig I always have the side of my hand resting on something, so I get to where I want to start the arc, flip the mask and hit the pedal. The elite is a lot nicer, but I havent welded with a non auto darkening in years and it took no getting used to when I got my other helmet.
- TanManS14
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Hmmmm, that dosnt sound too bad. Ima go return that mask after i order the pedal and try it out.
Do you rest your arm on something to help steady the tig torch? Or do you hold your whole arm up? All i've ever welded was most of that manifold, and these 2 pipes. So, i dont wanna start a bad habit. Seems like holding your arm up would let you have better torch angle and do a longer pass without having to stop, but obviously with it resting on something you can hold it much steadier. Just wondering. Here's a lil pic of one with the F'd up foot pedal.
Getting off subject but IDC lol. I love my welder so much and i havent even done **** with it yet.
Do you rest your arm on something to help steady the tig torch? Or do you hold your whole arm up? All i've ever welded was most of that manifold, and these 2 pipes. So, i dont wanna start a bad habit. Seems like holding your arm up would let you have better torch angle and do a longer pass without having to stop, but obviously with it resting on something you can hold it much steadier. Just wondering. Here's a lil pic of one with the F'd up foot pedal.
Getting off subject but IDC lol. I love my welder so much and i havent even done **** with it yet.
It's always broken.
- Alonso
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I don't like miller auto darkening hoods for doing tig either. I too used to get flashed with them. Hit or miss deal. For mig it was ok.
As for keeping the torch steady, I do whatever it takes and is most comfortable. I still try to free hand tho.
Most of the stuff I work on is in a fixture, so it can be tricky at times.
As for keeping the torch steady, I do whatever it takes and is most comfortable. I still try to free hand tho.
Most of the stuff I work on is in a fixture, so it can be tricky at times.
Billet PTE 6765 divided T4, Nismotronic, Speed density, Coil on plug conversion.
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- TanManS14
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I dont think that's really what he meant. It does dissipate heat quickly, but its dissipation has a down side. Quick absorption. If you're running constantly high exhaust temperatures the aluminum will absorb all that heat and not be able to dissipate it. Where as steel, not only having a higher distortion point, but it takes much more to heat an entire piece of steel, and will do better at staying cool throughout long WOT sessions.
That being said im still using it, but as far as for a downpipe or something that close i defiantly understand why. Heat sinks for computers dont exactly get hot enough to significantly heat up an entire piece of aluminum to the point of distortion like a motor does.
ps. That's right he did all those pie cuts out of AL. God that is so much money lol. Dude is crazy. So can titanium just not be bent? Or is it really hard to bend or something? If so what about the properties of it make it so difficult?
That being said im still using it, but as far as for a downpipe or something that close i defiantly understand why. Heat sinks for computers dont exactly get hot enough to significantly heat up an entire piece of aluminum to the point of distortion like a motor does.
ps. That's right he did all those pie cuts out of AL. God that is so much money lol. Dude is crazy. So can titanium just not be bent? Or is it really hard to bend or something? If so what about the properties of it make it so difficult?
It's always broken.
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I typiically drag,my hand and I use a ck flex.lock torch
Phenomenally better for akward position stuff
I use a digital elite. And I use the magnetic sensors(x mode)
MAke sure you lens is spotless and toy have the sensitivity up I'm on about 6 Iirc.
Im very satisfyed with this helmet.
Your welds look cold. Go hotter by maybe 10 amps
Dab faster to. Remember your filler cools the puddle.
Phenomenally better for akward position stuff
I use a digital elite. And I use the magnetic sensors(x mode)
MAke sure you lens is spotless and toy have the sensitivity up I'm on about 6 Iirc.
Im very satisfyed with this helmet.
Your welds look cold. Go hotter by maybe 10 amps
Dab faster to. Remember your filler cools the puddle.
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- TanManS14
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Yea it was ight at the front part, but as you said, starts rising up a little at the end. New foot pedal is ordered, gets here on tuesday and then im ready to do work, its tough welding with either wide open or nothing at all. I was also using pretty big filler, which i cant decide which one i like to use on piping. The other it seems like i have to dab too often. And this one sometimes i can watch it cool the puddle as you said. idk.
It's always broken.
Sorry now I understand.TanManS14 wrote:I dont think that's really what he meant. It does dissipate heat quickly, but its dissipation has a down side. Quick absorption. If you're running constantly high exhaust temperatures the aluminum will absorb all that heat and not be able to dissipate it. Where as steel, not only having a higher distortion point, but it takes much more to heat an entire piece of steel, and will do better at staying cool throughout long WOT sessions.
That being said im still using it, but as far as for a downpipe or something that close i defiantly understand why. Heat sinks for computers dont exactly get hot enough to significantly heat up an entire piece of aluminum to the point of distortion like a motor does.
ps. That's right he did all those pie cuts out of AL. God that is so much money lol. Dude is crazy. So can titanium just not be bent? Or is it really hard to bend or something? If so what about the properties of it make it so difficult?
- myowncasualty
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on aluminum I prefer using a larger filler rod.
I have a miller digital elite and hobbyist, i have never been flashed by either. The lens and darkening quality between the two are amazing. The Elite is on another level compared to the hobbyist. I use the elite for tig and hobby for migging. Finally just bought a gas lens setup too. Steel/ stainless look so much better now, not noticing a huge difference on aluminum though.
I have a miller digital elite and hobbyist, i have never been flashed by either. The lens and darkening quality between the two are amazing. The Elite is on another level compared to the hobbyist. I use the elite for tig and hobby for migging. Finally just bought a gas lens setup too. Steel/ stainless look so much better now, not noticing a huge difference on aluminum though.
95 240sx ka-t > SOLD
08 Evo X MR > New daily/ fun
08 Evo X MR > New daily/ fun
- TanManS14
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God damnit, but almost 300 bucks. I just sold my ecu, looks like im prolly gonna have to kiss that money good by lol. Yea i definitely like the bigger filler with aluminum. The first thing i did was buy a gas lens kit when i got my welder. I haven't welded steel, but i was in contact with my friend with a thermal arc for a while, and he was struggling to get his steel the right temp/ color before he welded his manies. Then he got a gas lens,and it changed everything. As you said though, i dont think it makes a big diff on al. Either way should save some $ on gas for both.
It's always broken.