What happens when you use ebay oil supply line...
What happens when you use ebay oil supply line...
In less than a year, the rubber used in its construction will become very hard and brittle due to the heat from the engine bay. Once this happens, it's only a matter of time before it cracks, leaks 2+ quarts of oil, and ruins your turbo.
WTB HX35 center cartridge...
FYI, it's a kit like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIASSA-INFINTI- ... 256beddb93
Before anyone says "urr hurr hurr that's what u get for buying ebay crap", all of the kits are the same. The next step up would have been the $80 JGS kit which is the same damn thing minus some of the adapters and isht.
So, I'd really like to make a small jumper hose to go from my oil outlet area up to the front of the head where I'll have a hardline to take it from there to the turbo and be more heat resistant...but hard lines are tough to get right.
What oil lines is everyone running?
Also, tidbit of information that poses a question. I've had consistent oil pressure issues and after this fiasco, I have discovered why [see my old thread "oil starvation under boost in the advanced section]. With the turbo now being fscked up, I still had to take it to school yesterday. The turbo doesn't can barely spool up before the now off-balance wheel slows it down. Now that the turbo shaft sometimes doesn't even turn, my oil pressure goes up by a good 10-15 psi and doesn't dip down when I get into even light throttle (where the turbo would spool up) when I could see the pressure go down by a few psi.
I've been thinking about this since the beginning and now it's pretty clear. For those of you who have started their car and forgot to connect the oil return line, you know that a LOT of oil can go through a turbo even at idle and the moment of panic where you leap back into your car to shut it off. Imagine you have a straw and want to shoot water out of the other side by blowing in one end - it's easy. The "oil" has only one way to go. Cut a big hole in the side of the straw and try again. Sure, "oil" still goes through to the other side, but now with a lot less of it at a lot lower pressure.
I've had the idea to run an oil restrictor for a while but haven't seen many people run restrictors except on cheap chinese turbos and ball-bearing ones.
Any thoughts on running a restrictor? With my oil line capped off right now, I easily have 10-15psi more oil pressure consistently through my range and the oil pressure doesn't dip when there would normally be turbo spool - even at light cruising throttle.
WTB HX35 center cartridge...
FYI, it's a kit like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIASSA-INFINTI- ... 256beddb93
Before anyone says "urr hurr hurr that's what u get for buying ebay crap", all of the kits are the same. The next step up would have been the $80 JGS kit which is the same damn thing minus some of the adapters and isht.
So, I'd really like to make a small jumper hose to go from my oil outlet area up to the front of the head where I'll have a hardline to take it from there to the turbo and be more heat resistant...but hard lines are tough to get right.
What oil lines is everyone running?
Also, tidbit of information that poses a question. I've had consistent oil pressure issues and after this fiasco, I have discovered why [see my old thread "oil starvation under boost in the advanced section]. With the turbo now being fscked up, I still had to take it to school yesterday. The turbo doesn't can barely spool up before the now off-balance wheel slows it down. Now that the turbo shaft sometimes doesn't even turn, my oil pressure goes up by a good 10-15 psi and doesn't dip down when I get into even light throttle (where the turbo would spool up) when I could see the pressure go down by a few psi.
I've been thinking about this since the beginning and now it's pretty clear. For those of you who have started their car and forgot to connect the oil return line, you know that a LOT of oil can go through a turbo even at idle and the moment of panic where you leap back into your car to shut it off. Imagine you have a straw and want to shoot water out of the other side by blowing in one end - it's easy. The "oil" has only one way to go. Cut a big hole in the side of the straw and try again. Sure, "oil" still goes through to the other side, but now with a lot less of it at a lot lower pressure.
I've had the idea to run an oil restrictor for a while but haven't seen many people run restrictors except on cheap chinese turbos and ball-bearing ones.
Any thoughts on running a restrictor? With my oil line capped off right now, I easily have 10-15psi more oil pressure consistently through my range and the oil pressure doesn't dip when there would normally be turbo spool - even at light cruising throttle.
R.I.P. 1990 Red Hatch - DOHC 5 speed // CP 9:1 - Eagle Rods - Clevite - ARP // Holset HX35 - 20psi daily - MSPNP2
8-bit wrote:You could spend your life building a ladder to the moon, or work for 5 years to pay for a trip.
Is it safe to say, your oil pickup tube was fine and this was the culprit? Also, we have a store here that sells hard lines. I want to switch to that eventually but this is a good option.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
- biggie
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I bought the JGS kit, but eventually wanted to run it to the firewall and around to the turbo, instead of under the engine. So went to a local place for 18" and 4' braided lines to run from block up to a Tee fitting (aftermarket oil pressure sensor on one side) then from there to the firewall and around to turbo. No issues thus far.
'93 Coupe GT32e/'93 Vert/'03 G35C
Always Broke!!!
Always Broke!!!
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For $28 a local place called Cavalier Hose & Fitting made me a -4AN to 1/8" NPT stainless steel braided feed line 36 long.....
And it's not just eBay lines. SS braided hose is only recommended for 450F and under. So continued exposure to a turbo manifold that is so close to the line will eventually do that to the line. So put a thermal sleeve over that end.
And it's not just eBay lines. SS braided hose is only recommended for 450F and under. So continued exposure to a turbo manifold that is so close to the line will eventually do that to the line. So put a thermal sleeve over that end.
Built KA24DE: Wiseco 9.0:1 | Eagle H Beams | ARP Head & Main Studs | BC 272s & Springs | Supertech Valves
Boost Source: Under Construction
Thinking about E-Mance? Think twice and read this:
viewtopic.php?t=45057&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Boost Source: Under Construction
Thinking about E-Mance? Think twice and read this:
viewtopic.php?t=45057&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
- schmauster920
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Its good hearing about these things that fail, there was a seemingly unsucessful thread aimed at these kind of things.
I got my feed line from a hydraulic supply place (hoseman) for about 40 bucks
My drain is by the foot stainless steel braided from ebay.
I got my feed line from a hydraulic supply place (hoseman) for about 40 bucks
My drain is by the foot stainless steel braided from ebay.
D21, Built KA24DE, 740cc, T4, WeatherGuard Tool Box, Tial 40mm, Megasquirt 3 in progress
Re: What happens when you use ebay oil supply line...
Im glad you posted this thread, Airman. This isn't an issue that is discussed a lot on the web and just about EVERYONE uses AN lines for their turbo, probably not realizing that it is not designed to be used in areas where temps may exceed 400-450* F.
I decided to run a hard line to try and prevent this issue. Unfortunately, due to the tools needed to run hard lines, it has been far from cheap. I'm also going to be running an inline filter. Its hard to find info on this on the web unless you are already familiar with running hard lines of various types. Luckily, Alonzo gave me some pointers and I think I have everything I'll need. Once I get everything hooked up, I'll post a little writeup with pics.
My drain line is still going to be AN hose but I'm going to put a Summit Racing thermal sleeve over it to try and prevent the heat from getting to the hose.
I decided to run a hard line to try and prevent this issue. Unfortunately, due to the tools needed to run hard lines, it has been far from cheap. I'm also going to be running an inline filter. Its hard to find info on this on the web unless you are already familiar with running hard lines of various types. Luckily, Alonzo gave me some pointers and I think I have everything I'll need. Once I get everything hooked up, I'll post a little writeup with pics.
My drain line is still going to be AN hose but I'm going to put a Summit Racing thermal sleeve over it to try and prevent the heat from getting to the hose.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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- nissanfanatic
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Re: What happens when you use ebay oil supply line...
I get most of my stuff like lines, wire, etc from McMaster.
...
My real fear is the Ebay oil cooler kits running around at HPDEs that I drive.ha
...
My real fear is the Ebay oil cooler kits running around at HPDEs that I drive.ha
Re: What happens when you use ebay oil supply line...
McMaster is where I got the seamless stainless annealed tubing from. I'm a little worried that the stuff I got is a little too thick-walled. I'll test one in my flare tool soon to make sure it's going to do the job. If not, I'll just get some with a larger ID. The tools are the expensive part. The tubing is cheap by comparison!
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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- Alonso
- Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
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Re: What happens when you use ebay oil supply line...
What wall thickness did you get? And what was the cost?
Billet PTE 6765 divided T4, Nismotronic, Speed density, Coil on plug conversion.
AWS D17.1 certified
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AWS D17.1 certified
Follow me on Instagram: @alonso240
Re: What happens when you use ebay oil supply line...
McMaster Part# 89785K824 - Type 316 Smooth-Bore Seamless Stainless Steel Tubing
1/4" OD, .18" ID, .035" Wall, 3' Length
I bought two lengths of 3' for $13 a piece, so total was $26 + S&H. I did a quick test flare earlier tonight and the Ridgid flare tool worked great. My bender worked fine as well, so it looks like I'm all set. I just hope I can do everything correctly and have a leak-free setup. I'm hoping to have enough tubing and fittings leftover to do my wastegate vacuum lines as well.
1/4" OD, .18" ID, .035" Wall, 3' Length
I bought two lengths of 3' for $13 a piece, so total was $26 + S&H. I did a quick test flare earlier tonight and the Ridgid flare tool worked great. My bender worked fine as well, so it looks like I'm all set. I just hope I can do everything correctly and have a leak-free setup. I'm hoping to have enough tubing and fittings leftover to do my wastegate vacuum lines as well.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
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Re: What happens when you use ebay oil supply line...
I used 3/16 brake line. Bend it up easily, all metal, fittings available everywhere. Been on the car since 2001 without a problem.
Re: What happens when you use ebay oil supply line...
So is the take away use a hardline for peace of mind? I am getting ready to price out this part of my build so very curious.
Re: What happens when you use ebay oil supply line...
That's what I'm doing. I'm also planning to hard line the wastegate, since it has the same issue with the heat making rubber or even teflon lines brittle over time.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread