Hopefully an absurd question with a simple answer (that I can't find on any forum or figure out myself).
My IACV and air regulator are open, so I can't do a proper boost leak test, as all the air just flows into the intake manifold. How do I close them so that I can boost leak test?
I'm assuming it's possible to get them fully closed, as I've boost leak tested the car before with the same setup...
Few notes:
- I just cleaned both the IACV and air regulator - so they both function fine.
- Have been testing the wiring and sensors and they all appear to be fine (except the tps, which I'm replacing)
Thanks in advance for any help!
IACV and air regulator never fully closed?
-
- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
- Posts: 303
- Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2012 7:57 pm
- Location: Silverdale Washington
Your throttle body doesn't fully seal either. You have to make sure that the intake and exhaust valves aren't open at the same time. Just turn the crank a little bit.
My wife "haven't you spent enough time and money on that car yet?" my answer "no"
The build thread-> viewtopic.php?t=58421&highlight=
The build thread-> viewtopic.php?t=58421&highlight=
-
- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2010 8:16 pm
- Location: Cali
Re: IACV and air regulator never fully closed?
Just block off the idle-air tube that connects to the IACV and air regulator with a 5/8 piece of ruber hose that you plug with a big-bolt and some metal worm clamps. That's how I do mine.mt2forty wrote:Hopefully an absurd question with a simple answer (that I can't find on any forum or figure out myself).
My IACV and air regulator are open, so I can't do a proper boost leak test, as all the air just flows into the intake manifold. How do I close them so that I can boost leak test?
I'm assuming it's possible to get them fully closed, as I've boost leak tested the car before with the same setup...
Few notes:
- I just cleaned both the IACV and air regulator - so they both function fine.
- Have been testing the wiring and sensors and they all appear to be fine (except the tps, which I'm replacing)
Thanks in advance for any help!
- schmauster920
- Belongs To The TOP CONTRIBUTING MEMBERS!
- Posts: 2612
- Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2007 5:25 pm
- Location: CA
Without blocking anything the air shouldnt go anywhere unless you have leaks, big cams or cam timing issues
It all goes into the motor so even if the IACV is open it doesnt matter as long as you test from the turbo intake
Is the 'air regulator' emissions?
It all goes into the motor so even if the IACV is open it doesnt matter as long as you test from the turbo intake
Is the 'air regulator' emissions?
D21, Built KA24DE, 740cc, T4, WeatherGuard Tool Box, Tial 40mm, Megasquirt 3 in progress
-
- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
- Posts: 303
- Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2012 7:57 pm
- Location: Silverdale Washington
I mostly agree.schmauster920 wrote:Without blocking anything the air shouldnt go anywhere unless you have leaks, big cams or cam timing issues
It all goes into the motor so even if the IACV is open it doesnt matter as long as you test from the turbo intake
Is the 'air regulator' emissions?
My wife "haven't you spent enough time and money on that car yet?" my answer "no"
The build thread-> viewtopic.php?t=58421&highlight=
The build thread-> viewtopic.php?t=58421&highlight=
Car is at TDC right now with stock cams...so air shouldn't be getting through the valves.schmauster920 wrote:Without blocking anything the air shouldnt go anywhere unless you have leaks, big cams or cam timing issues
It all goes into the motor so even if the IACV is open it doesnt matter as long as you test from the turbo intake
Is the 'air regulator' emissions?
I don't have any leaks other than directly through the IACV and air regulator. If I plug off the hose that runs from my hot pipe into the IACV, it holds boost no problem.
I suppose it's possible that the intake manifold is leaking and I missed the leak somewhere, but I checked it pretty thoroughly.
Air regulator is the temp-based regulator for cold starts. It branches off the IACV hard line in the intake manifold.
Is the IACV always open to some degree?
-
- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
- Posts: 303
- Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2012 7:57 pm
- Location: Silverdale Washington
Yes. If the throttle body is fully closed and no air could get into the engine how would it run at idle? When you adjust the iacv it raises and lowers your rpm because it controls the amount of air that gets in there.
My wife "haven't you spent enough time and money on that car yet?" my answer "no"
The build thread-> viewtopic.php?t=58421&highlight=
The build thread-> viewtopic.php?t=58421&highlight=
- schmauster920
- Belongs To The TOP CONTRIBUTING MEMBERS!
- Posts: 2612
- Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2007 5:25 pm
- Location: CA
Its not a sealed system the TB is cracked and even if it wasnt the IACV is controlled by the ecu.... The cold start would be open if it was cold but that wouldnt matter
the IACV hose on the intake is after the turbo inlet, you dont boost check from your throttle body unless you dont have boost, then its just a vac leak check like shops do
the IACV hose on the intake is after the turbo inlet, you dont boost check from your throttle body unless you dont have boost, then its just a vac leak check like shops do
Last edited by schmauster920 on Mon Mar 11, 2013 9:27 pm, edited 2 times in total.
D21, Built KA24DE, 740cc, T4, WeatherGuard Tool Box, Tial 40mm, Megasquirt 3 in progress
Word. Thought there might have been a chance the valve was closed unless it was getting power or something. Thanks.wannabethestig wrote:Yes. If the throttle body is fully closed and no air could get into the engine how would it run at idle? When you adjust the iacv it raises and lowers your rpm because it controls the amount of air that gets in there.
Must be a leak in the manifold or that air is getting past the valves then.