Cooling issue

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1bdapl
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Cooling issue

Post by 1bdapl »

I have had an issue with my KA T getting hot at idle. Pick up the rpms or stomp it to the floor and it cools right back down. This issue seems like the water pump is not turning fast enough. I have literally changed everything. New radiator and cap, water pump, thermostat. i recently did a new build on a different block, head, etc. so all new parts again with a Koyo radiator and the works. Same issue. I have even gone so far as to switch to e85, changed to a larger oil pan with oil cooler. Results are the same. I am running 2 1750cfm span fans. I have made vents to allow air out of the engine bay. I have made shrouds, scoops but this issue follows. I am at a loss. Anybody had this issue? Fixed it?
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Re: Cooling issue

Post by adamky »

How much have you driven the car since refilling the coolant the last time? My first guess would be that you have air trapped in the system. These motors can be a major PITA to get out of the air out. Most of the time, I can get it bled fairly quickly. But this last time, I had a hell of a time with it.
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1bdapl
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Re: Cooling issue

Post by 1bdapl »

I used an airlift to fill the system. Have run on the dyno and driven now for a few hundred miles. Crack the bleeder and coolant is all thats coming out. I will try it again tho
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Alonso
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Re: Cooling issue

Post by Alonso »

Radiator breather tank. I swear these should be mandatory on every ka build. Both of my s13's run them
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adamky
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Re: Cooling issue

Post by adamky »

1bdapl wrote:I used an airlift to fill the system. Have run on the dyno and driven now for a few hundred miles. Crack the bleeder and coolant is all thats coming out. I will try it again tho
It should have worked the air out by now. Do you use the bleeder screw on the intake manifold?
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1bdapl
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Re: Cooling issue

Post by 1bdapl »

yes I used the bleeder on the intake. Radiator breather tank? you mean an overflow? I have one.
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flip240
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Re: Cooling issue

Post by flip240 »

Breather tank is not an overflow tank. Breather tanks are what you see alot on German cars, its a pressurized coolant tank that is connected to all the high spots in the cooling system (e.g. radiator cap, upper radiator hose, lower radiator hose, head) to eliminate air bubbles in the entire system as they appear.

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Re: Cooling issue

Post by duncan351 »

The radiator funnel only work effectively by first lifting the front of the car and blocking the rear tires. When you poor coolant in the funnel to fill the system you must pour very slowly. By pouring slowly this allows all the air to find its way out through the funnel will replacing that air with coolant. If you just simply fill the funnel up and watch the air pockets work their way to the top more air pockets will get trapped and have to find their way out of the radiator. Once you get to the point where the radiator isn't taking anymore coolant. Keep the funnel about a 1/4 way filled and started the car with heater on full blast. Allow engine to warm up and once it gets to 180* or so start reving the engine slightly to work what ever small air pockets left will find their way out then turn engine off, keep front end elevated and allow engine to cool completely down. You can speed this process up by putting a fan in front of the car. Once cooled off check funnel and add coolant as needed then restart car and repeat process again until. You may have to do this 2-4 times. You will know when you are safe when you can start car, let it idle, heater works, and car doesn't over heat because thermostat opened on it own with out having to rev engine because all air pockets are gone.
I adopted this process from the VQ35 coolant procedure and it works perfect every time. The secret is to pour coolant in very slow.
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