How to *properly* run AN fittings with stock fuel lines

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How to *properly* run AN fittings with stock fuel lines

Post by ghostchild316 » Sun Feb 22, 2009 10:39 am

OK I still get alotta msgs asking me how I did my fuel line setup.Maybe a write up will help reduce them :lol:

AN sizes can be kind of confusing at first, since all they say is -5,-8,-10, and so on.
Well they go in increments of 16th of an inch.

So for example, -4an = 1/4", -8an = 1/2".
I like to add 16 at the end and go from there, like this - 4/16=1/4", -6/16=3/8", -12/16=3/4"

The factory steel fuel lines are 8mm, or about 5/16". So -5an fittings work perfect.

The list below is what I used so I could run -6an braided lines,fuel rail,filter,and fittings with stock lines-

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Earl's -5an tube nut,pair - EAR-581805ERL

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Earl's -5an tube sleeve,pair -EAR-581905ERL

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Earl's -6an to -5an reducer(2 req) - EAR-991907ERL

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Summit® 37 Degree Flare Tool Set - SUM-900311

*NOTE-The summit flaring tool is the cheapest you'll find that can do the proper flare for AN fittings. The best one you can get that isn't super expensive and can do stainless steel tubing is made by Rigid. It goes for a little over $100 if you shop around. It is used in the aircraft industry meaning it's good enough for your 240SX.

*A good tubing cutter from any auto parts store. I prefer the kind that are made completely from metal,not plastic.

When you cut tubing make sure to deburr it,inside and out. I used a small round file for the inside and a flat one for the outside.

Also I like to use a little bit of oil when flaring tubing and assembling the hose ends to the braided hose.Gear oil is what I had sitting around so I used that.

Then slip on the -5an tube nut and sleeve BEFORE you flare it!!!

*Make sure you have enough room to slip the sleeve back far enough so you can put the flaring tool on.Also it has to be square to the tubing or your flare will be off and may have to redo it.

* The tube has to be flush with the tool or it may create problems when you tighten your fittings.


It should look kinda like this when done-(thnx ms paint!)
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This is the end result after doing both feed and return
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From here on you can run whatever fuel system components you wish.


This is what I used when I pieced my setup(with pt #s)
4 90* -6an hose ends (SUM-220687)
3 straight hose ends (SUM-220690)
1 45* hose end (SUM-220686)
6 ft SS braided -6an hose (SUM-230606)
4 -6an straight cut o-ring to -6an male (SUM-220166)***2 were supplied already with fuel rail, the other 2 are needed for the regulator***
1 External Hex Head Port Plug with O-Ring Seal, -6 AN (EAR-581406ERL)
1 System 1in-line fuel filter, -6an (SOF-200-201406)
1 Aeromotive A1000-6 Adjustable FPR (AEI-13109)
1Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Gauge (AEI-15633)
2 Earl's Performance Cushioned Hose Clamps*sold in pairs*(EAR-171032ERL)
1 AMS/Turbo240.com -6an Fuel rail
4 MSD/Delphi 75lb injectors

All but the injectors and fuel rail were purchased from summitracing.com


What it looks like when it comes together-
Image
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Image
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There you have it ppl.I feel this is a "more proper" and safer method than running compression fittings.I know other ppl have used them before,but I try to stay away from them as much as I can.

Any questions,post here


Good luck and have fun!
Last edited by ghostchild316 on Thu May 21, 2009 9:32 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Post by cleantune » Sun Feb 22, 2009 11:26 am

great write-up!
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Post by whitesleeper » Sun Feb 22, 2009 11:34 am

Thank you this is very helpful and I vote to stickey! :D
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Post by whitesleeper » Sun Feb 22, 2009 11:43 am

Where is the hard line off you FPR going to?
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Post by sloka-t » Sun Feb 22, 2009 12:14 pm

to a vacuum source
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Post by ghostchild316 » Sun Feb 22, 2009 1:39 pm

sloka-t wrote:to a vacuum source
Correct.Aluminum tubing doesn't flex as much as rubber,and it last a bit longer :lol:
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Post by ghostchild316 » Sun Jul 05, 2009 9:47 pm

*Bump

I know this helped some people out.

Anybody else vote for sticky?
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Post by zenkiBruce » Mon Jul 06, 2009 7:11 am

It's got my vote... :D
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Post by vader3120 » Mon Jul 06, 2009 1:52 pm

+1 for sticky
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Post by street_240sx » Sun Jul 19, 2009 1:03 pm

+1 soo whats good an size to run for fuel?
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Post by Alsontime » Sun Jul 19, 2009 5:54 pm

Nice. I plan on one day changing to 3/8 in hardline for the fuel lines and will definitely use this method.

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Post by TryingToTurbo » Mon Jul 20, 2009 10:06 am

This seems like a GREAT writeup for some of use more experienced KA-T people. I would imagine most first time t25 setups are not gonna have this kind of $$$ invested in the fuel setup.

+1 for sticky though. I know I will be using this to do my fuel lines on my 1jz swap. Its nice to finally see the correct way to convert your stock hard lines to AN.
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Post by ispentallmymoneyontires » Thu Jul 23, 2009 9:39 am

+1 for sticky

/or at least in the usefull threads section :D
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Post by boske » Sat Jan 09, 2010 10:47 pm

I have been making a parts list for my fuel setup, after seeing how much it will cost just to make a 37 degree flare two times I started looking for another type of fitting. Heres what I found:

Russell Steel Male -AN to 1/2"-20 Inverted Flare Female SAE Brake Adapter Fittings

-6 an TO 1/2" - 20 = Russell 640600

1/2" - 20 is the thread size on a 5/16 tube nut.

Image

heres a link that shows a picture, most websites don't have an image, or even a description, this seems to be a specialty fitting that isn't very common:

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Mal ... 19076.html

So, if I'm correct, this fitting would be cheaper, and less adapters needed to convert your 5/16 hardline into -6 an. All you would need is two of these and two 5/16 tube nuts from your local auto parts store, and your standard 45 flare (autozone rental tool) on your factory hardline.

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Post by KoukiKAT » Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:15 am

I think you're looking at it the wrong way. That won't work. The 1/2-20 threads on that adapter are internal female threads, as are the threads on the 5/16 tube nut. What you would really need would be an adapter that is male -6 AN on one side and male 5/16 45* flare on the other side.
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Post by Alonso » Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:39 am

Yea it could work but...there is a difference between using your brake line style fittings vs an fittings.

With an fittings, on tubing you use a sleeve and a nut setup. When you tighten the nut, torque is applied to the back of the sleeve without damaging the tube. This makes an fittings more reliable and reusable. Only a single flair is needed on the stock fuel lines also.

The style fitting you're looking at, the nut applies torque directly to the back of the tube/flair itself. This will also require a DOUBLE flair to withstand the torquing force. A single flair here will most likely fail and you end up with a fuel leak..not good!
OEMs use this style fitting to keep costs down.


I on the other hand, upgraded from the summit tool to Ridge flairing tool($120!). It is a higher quality tool and works on SS tubing. Love it.
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Post by boske » Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:53 am

Alonso wrote:Yea it could work but...there is a difference between using your brake line style fittings vs an fittings.

With an fittings, on tubing you use a sleeve and a nut setup. When you tighten the nut, torque is applied to the back of the sleeve without damaging the tube. This makes an fittings more reliable and reusable. Only a single flair is needed on the stock fuel lines also.

The style fitting you're looking at, the nut applies torque directly to the back of the tube/flair itself. This will also require a DOUBLE flair to withstand the torquing force. A single flair here will most likely fail and you end up with a fuel leak..not good!
OEMs use this style fitting to keep costs down.


I on the other hand, upgraded from the summit tool to Ridge flairing tool($120!). It is a higher quality tool and works on SS tubing. Love it.
I kinda see what your saying, 37 degree AN vs 45 sae flare, the AN flare would be better if your going to reuse the flare. The thing is once you install the adapter theres no reason to remove it because theres AN on the other side you can pull off. Also your entire brake system uses double flare fittings and holds up to way more pressure than a fuel system will ever see, there really isn't a downside to a one time use 45 double flare.

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Post by boske » Sun Jan 10, 2010 10:05 am

KoukiKAT wrote:I think you're looking at it the wrong way. That won't work. The 1/2-20 threads on that adapter are internal female threads, as are the threads on the 5/16 tube nut. What you would really need would be an adapter that is male -6 AN on one side and male 5/16 45* flare on the other side.
You would still need a union coupler to put them together that way, that would be the same as putting together two lines with tube nuts on them. The adapter I posted is like a brake line union, you just thread the nut into one side and it adapts to AN on the other, get it?

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Post by Alonso » Mon Jan 18, 2010 5:51 pm

There's more than one way to skin a cat...

If it works, it works.

Personally I wanted a true,full 100% an fittings fuel system under the hood.

It's your car, do what makes you happy :wink:
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Post by sdaigle240 » Mon Sep 13, 2010 7:42 am

Bumpng this kick ass should be stickied thread. Just gave me all the info I needed, p/n's and everything. Jammin.
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Post by KoukiKAT » Tue Sep 14, 2010 6:41 am

boske wrote:
KoukiKAT wrote:I think you're looking at it the wrong way. That won't work. The 1/2-20 threads on that adapter are internal female threads, as are the threads on the 5/16 tube nut. What you would really need would be an adapter that is male -6 AN on one side and male 5/16 45* flare on the other side.
You would still need a union coupler to put them together that way, that would be the same as putting together two lines with tube nuts on them. The adapter I posted is like a brake line union, you just thread the nut into one side and it adapts to AN on the other, get it?
I think I get it now. so, you'd need to set up the fuel line to look like this then, right? Screw that into the fitting you were talking about and viola. Seems like it would work fine.

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Post by eazye2000 » Tue Sep 14, 2010 7:47 am

I'm thinking of using both the feed and return as feed lines, and just running a single 1/2" return line back to the tank. That should keep my cost down, and still provide enough E85 to my 1200cc injectors.

Awesome thread. I should print it before it goes away. haha
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Post by itwillboost » Thu May 12, 2011 11:49 pm

So I have a question, I am running a stock fuel rail on my setup with a sard fpr. Would you recommend me trying to make an adapter, I have the an hose and fittings, or just buy one of the 60 dollar adapters ?

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Post by Jus14 » Fri May 13, 2011 8:06 am

+1 vote for sticky great info....and i personally like -6 for fuel line but to each his own
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Post by ka-torqy » Sun May 15, 2011 4:39 pm

+1 for stiiicky

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Post by Bubba » Wed May 18, 2011 7:10 pm

+1 for sticky.

I hope to end all of my fuel leak issues finally. Rubber lines with clamps fail me repeatedly.
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Post by Walperstyle » Thu May 19, 2011 12:01 am

vote for sticky being it teaches something
vote for more moderators to combat spam
vote for an official Fuel Creativity thread (aka here from now on)
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Post by Kamilitaryman » Fri Feb 22, 2013 12:22 pm

OP - Thank you so much for writing this up. It made piecing my fuel delivery so much easier! Once again, THANK YOU :D
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Post by airman » Fri Feb 22, 2013 8:19 pm

Stickied. Great info
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Post by Kamilitaryman » Sat Feb 23, 2013 6:15 pm

airman wrote:Stickied. Great info
It was well deserved! :)
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