Manual Boost Controller or Electronic (Non ECU CONTROL)

Basic tech questions such as future setups, different turbo kits, car diagnosis, etc
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Trippen
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Manual Boost Controller or Electronic (Non ECU CONTROL)

Post by Trippen »

Hello all,
I took the car to the dyno the other day to look at what my 248 cams looked like on the dyno. After the proper degree. Car felt strong in the butt dyno and the torque curve looked ok but dyno results aside. The tuner noticed something consistent with in my previous 2 Dyno pulls and that was the inconsistency of my boost. It would build boost stay steady for a bit (500-100 RPM's) then drop 2-3psi and then towards the end of the run build again to set point like a bowl curve. He had seen the similar things from the Greddy Profec B spec 2 controller and recommended a Hallman Pro MBC. I know I am about fed up with the greddy just due to its complex setup and non consistent settings. But I wanted to get the wealth of knowledge on here for an opinion. Car is currently in storage for the next 6 months since i have been relocated to Austria for a while. So it gives me time to do some ordering and changing to the car. ECU etc.....But this post is only about boost controllers..
Trippen-
-Boost is like a bad habit the more you do it the more you want it.-

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89 240sx se Hatch-NA RS*R race springs w/AGX's
92 240sx se Convertible-(Wifes Car) NA , Tanabe Coilovers..
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Post by Trippen »

Oh forgot to Add that when the gain was upped on the greddy for one of the runs we actually lost 3psi of boost pressure in the middle of the rpm range...and no boost leaks...Very weird...
Trippen-
-Boost is like a bad habit the more you do it the more you want it.-

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89 240sx se Hatch-NA RS*R race springs w/AGX's
92 240sx se Convertible-(Wifes Car) NA , Tanabe Coilovers..
95 240sx se KA-T Borded .20 over JWT ECU, Z32 MAF, Arias Pistons, Eagle Rods, 50 trim T3/T4 turbo, 50lb MSD, J30 LSD, Custom Drive shaft,D21 flywheel,PLX-R500 and TurboXS Knock lite. 275.5 tq 246hp @14psi
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Post by nismo 240 »

Huh...I have the same boost controller and I have had no problems with mine. It hits 16psi and stays there the whole time...not that telling you this helps you any. I like my Greddy Profect B but if you are wanting something less complicated, as you put it, then you can't get any less complicated than a MBC. Probably any name brand one will do. If you are looking for something in-between a MBC and an electronic one you might consider AEM's Tru-Boost Controller. It will allow you to adjust the boost in cabin and it also has overboost protection. Setting it is simple, either increase the boost or decrease it. Here are a bunch of options including the ones previously mentioned:

http://www.hopupracing.com/boco.html
Greddy Turbo Kit, Greddy Evo TT Exhaust, Greddy FMIC, Greddy Profec B Spec 2 EBC; Greddy Type RS BOV, Unorthodox Racing Lightweight Underdrive Pulley Set, Custom 3" Downpipe, Magnaflow 3" Cat, Denso Iridium Plugs, Walbro 255, HRT Built Motor (Wiseco 9:1 forged pistons, Eagle Rods, ARP Hardware, High Performance 3 Angle Valve Job, Port & Polish), Competition Clutch 6 Puck Sprung Clutch, JGY Customs Lightweight Flywheel, Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec's.
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Post by sdaigle240 »

if its at all like the aem, you need to tune the crack pressure first, it has the greatest effect on boost steadyness, and obviously gain is more for qty of boost. on the aem you have so set the crack pressure before your WG spring rating, so it actually holds that abount. its tricky, with that said mines not perfect.
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Post by nismo 240 »

sdaigle240 wrote:if its at all like the AEM, you need to tune the crack pressure first, it has the greatest effect on boost steadiness, and obviously gain is more for qty of boost. on the AEM you have so set the crack pressure before your WG spring rating, so it actually holds that amount. its tricky, with that said mines not perfect.
By crack pressure do you mean where the wastegate starts to open? If that is what you are talking about it is called start boost by Greddy and is used to adjust the boost response. The gain is quote "used to adjust the boost consistency (adjusts the sensitivity of the valve control). When boost spike occurs, lower the GAIN value. When boost falls off at high rpm, or the boost increases as rpm increases, raise the GAIN value. Even if the SET boost is not changed, by increasing the GAIN value, it will increase boost." To be honest, when I set my boost controller I didn't seem to notice any difference when changing the gain value so I set it somewhere in the middle I think. I set my start boost like a half psi lower than I wanted my actual boost at. If you would like I could go look at the settings on my controller and tell you what they are exactly...
Greddy Turbo Kit, Greddy Evo TT Exhaust, Greddy FMIC, Greddy Profec B Spec 2 EBC; Greddy Type RS BOV, Unorthodox Racing Lightweight Underdrive Pulley Set, Custom 3" Downpipe, Magnaflow 3" Cat, Denso Iridium Plugs, Walbro 255, HRT Built Motor (Wiseco 9:1 forged pistons, Eagle Rods, ARP Hardware, High Performance 3 Angle Valve Job, Port & Polish), Competition Clutch 6 Puck Sprung Clutch, JGY Customs Lightweight Flywheel, Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec's.
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Post by sdaigle240 »

i assumed gain was duty cycle of the solenoid. on ours its just 10-90% duty cycle and then crack pressure is 1-2psi b4 wastegate pressure says aem engineer, directions suck. if set the crack to your actual WG press u get a spike, so what i was saying to the OP is try messing witht that value on the greddy. that will coax it to hold better but be more prone to spike, you need a balance. a 1-2psi spike may or may not bother you, but it will allow the solenoid to hold the desired pressure better from what ive been seeing.


nismo, if you try taking ur WG setting number on the greddy and drop it to like half your actual WG spring, you'll spool super slow. when playing with the settings i found i could get my car to make 1 psi or not spool till reeeaaall late with the different combos i was trying.
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Post by Trippen »

Yea I have tried many many combos of settings and it used to work fine but just started to notice it on the track(drag) we are loosing MPH and on the dyno HP/torque for what used to be a good setup. After the last dyno me and the tuner were left scratching our heads on it we messed with it during 5 pulls and really no difference in numbers so either waist gate is going or the greddy solenoid. either way. i am over this greddy unit. I have done every suggestion in the book and it all leads back to this. The shop that has been doing my dynos is a audi race tuner and he know his stuff. So i am leaning towards the manual boost controller since they will install tune it for 15 psi and dyno it all in the same day. not that i couldn't install it but hay when the installation is free with the purchase of it and the dyno run is cheap why not right? dyno graph is below...the fuzzy line was initial run a year ago stock s14 cams new run was with 248/248 cam swap intake 3 teeth retarded exh 1 tooth advanced...notice boost drop and build and hp does the same thing so leads me to think that the gate just isnt sealing all the way we did another run without so much spiking and we actually had steady boost on the gauge but the dyno readying dropped hp and boost dropped to like 10psi

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Trippen-
-Boost is like a bad habit the more you do it the more you want it.-

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89 240sx se Hatch-NA RS*R race springs w/AGX's
92 240sx se Convertible-(Wifes Car) NA , Tanabe Coilovers..
95 240sx se KA-T Borded .20 over JWT ECU, Z32 MAF, Arias Pistons, Eagle Rods, 50 trim T3/T4 turbo, 50lb MSD, J30 LSD, Custom Drive shaft,D21 flywheel,PLX-R500 and TurboXS Knock lite. 275.5 tq 246hp @14psi
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Post by Josh_300ZXT/240SX »

What's up my bro Trippen! It's Josh from TN. I wanted to say I love my MBC on the Z31. I think MBC is the way to go, if your not wanting to spend a ton of money! If you need a electronic BC then this it what I would get!
http://estore.websitepros.com/1636426/Detail.bok?no=256
Never used it but from what I read its the best.
R.I.P. Elian Angel Rowley. 05/15/2010-07/22/2010
We will never forget.

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Post by Trippen »

whats up and Thanks Josh...I think I am getting the MBC ...just going to be about 6 months before i get to use it....
Trippen-
-Boost is like a bad habit the more you do it the more you want it.-

Image
89 240sx se Hatch-NA RS*R race springs w/AGX's
92 240sx se Convertible-(Wifes Car) NA , Tanabe Coilovers..
95 240sx se KA-T Borded .20 over JWT ECU, Z32 MAF, Arias Pistons, Eagle Rods, 50 trim T3/T4 turbo, 50lb MSD, J30 LSD, Custom Drive shaft,D21 flywheel,PLX-R500 and TurboXS Knock lite. 275.5 tq 246hp @14psi
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Post by Josh_300ZXT/240SX »

LoL Having fun over there I hope!
R.I.P. Elian Angel Rowley. 05/15/2010-07/22/2010
We will never forget.

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Post by Trippen »

as always missing my car though and american tv...but world cup madness makes up for it
Trippen-
-Boost is like a bad habit the more you do it the more you want it.-

Image
89 240sx se Hatch-NA RS*R race springs w/AGX's
92 240sx se Convertible-(Wifes Car) NA , Tanabe Coilovers..
95 240sx se KA-T Borded .20 over JWT ECU, Z32 MAF, Arias Pistons, Eagle Rods, 50 trim T3/T4 turbo, 50lb MSD, J30 LSD, Custom Drive shaft,D21 flywheel,PLX-R500 and TurboXS Knock lite. 275.5 tq 246hp @14psi
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Post by secondtonone317 »

My greddy profec B II is also being a pain in the ass.

one night I hit it and noticed that I did not hear the gate dump so I let off, I thought the solenoid went bad, I swapped that and still same issue.
When I turn the unit off the gate opens on spring psi, I will check the wiring to the solenoid and the boost line.

I don't think it could be the wiring because when the unit is powered off it lets the gate open on spring, when the unit is on it boosts to infinity. I plan to clear the peak and see if its reading enough to signal solenoid to open. I am to the point of switching to a Hallman myself.

Anyone with experience on these issues?
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