Best way to secure a turbo onto a manifold?

Basic tech questions such as future setups, different turbo kits, car diagnosis, etc
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Best way to secure a turbo onto a manifold?

Post by Kamilitaryman »

Just like title says:

What's the best way to secure a turbo onto a manifold?

Studs with a locknut or bolts?

Any links to some good ones? I've read somehwere that ARP made some but I can't remember where...
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Post by 91white_ka »

One of my friends on here (turbonola) was having problems with nuts backing off. Last I heard he was using a fastenal product, some kind of vibration fighting lock nuts, lol. Maybe he'll be so kind to chime in. Or you could PM him.
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Post by TryingToTurbo »

If you buy the same kind of nut used to hold your header onto your head, those will do the charm. I don't remember the technical term but the end of the nut is "pinched" to create resistance once tightened so they wont back off. Those work great.
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Post by Jordan Gladman »

I use a tapped flange on my manifold and use a socket head cap screw for bolts. The smaller bolt head bites into the turbine housing when you torque it down and locks in better than a larger hex head and washer. Nuts/bolts or even nuts/studs tend to back off more from my experience.

Also, having a well supported downpipe helps, as soon as you bottom out your cat or downpipe flange you twist the turbo on the manifold and this will loosen off your fasteners.
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Post by basic »

TryingToTurbo wrote:If you buy the same kind of nut used to hold your header onto your head, those will do the charm. I don't remember the technical term but the end of the nut is "pinched" to create resistance once tightened so they wont back off. Those work great.
I believe what you are talking about is an all metal lock nut. They deform the threads to provide an added amount of prevailing torque required to rotate the nut.

Lock nuts generally come in two types, the all metal style, and the elastic style (also known as nyloc) - on high heat applications (over 250 F) the use of nyloc nuts is not recommended, as the nylon locking materal will soften and/or melt, causing loss of locking effect.

One note - generally speaking, and for the cost of a nut, it is always better to replace rather than reuse locking nuts. exceptions can be made for non-critical componets, and it's generally accepted that nyloc nuts are retain more of their locking power than all metal lock nuts as the nylon is elastic and deforms around the nut, where as all metal will either remove materal through galling or yeild the nut, both of which result in loss of locking force.
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Post by Kamilitaryman »

So as long as it's high heat stuff, any combination should work as long as I don't bang up my exhaust too much. I think I'll go with the stud/locknut combo.

My manifold is finally coming in next week. At 1st they told me it would be 2 weeks, then it turned into 3 weeks and now it's coming in 4.5 weeks.

Anyways, thanks for chiming in on this fellas. I just want to make sure I do things right the 1st time :)

PS whats the recommended amount of ft-lbs of torque to bolt it all down?
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Post by Unbound Yuurei »

why can't we use the same bolts from the ones that connect from the stock exhaust manifold onto the downpipe? they have grooves on them soo when they heat up, they expand and hold better.
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Post by TryingToTurbo »

As stated above, it is DEFINATELY a good idea to get a flexpipe in your downpipe. This will prevent 90% of your backing off issues. It did for me anyways....
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Post by Kamilitaryman »

TryingToTurbo wrote:As stated above, it is DEFINATELY a good idea to get a flexpipe in your downpipe. This will prevent 90% of your backing off issues. It did for me anyways....
Oh trust me I know. I've already had plans to run a flex pipe on mine waaay before this thread :)
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Post by BRAD D »

the steel ones that pinch are called stover nuts FYI
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Post by Unbound Yuurei »

BRAD D wrote:the steel ones that pinch are called stover nuts FYI
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Post by jp86 »

BRAD D wrote:the steel ones that pinch are called stover nuts FYI
i run stover nuts and beveled washers (must run two). I'm not sure of the actual name for these washers but they look like below.

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Post by BRAD D »

thats a nord lock washer
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Post by KoukiKAT »

BRAD D wrote:thats a nord lock washer
And they DO NOT come loose until you want them too. They're reusable too. Make sure to lube them and torque them properly. They're awesome on fasteners that experience a lot of shearing loads and vibration. Be aware that you can't use any other type of traditional washers anywhere in the assembly, since they'll defeat the purpose of these. I get mine through Maryland Metrics. They're willing to sell small quantities on special order.
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Post by Kamilitaryman »

So what is the recommended amount of torque in ft-lbs to bolt the turbo on? Mine didn;t come with any instructions or spec chart thats why I'm asking. I was thinking 35-40 lbs?
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Post by BRAD D »

i might try them, you can also get them at mc master carr
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Post by keytops »

I would say 40 ft-lbs. If the regular stud, lock washer and bolt combonation isn't working either the major diameter of the studs is undersize, your lock washers are too flat or you have an F*** load of vibration and need to add a flex pipe/new engine mounts
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Post by Kamilitaryman »

TryingToTurbo wrote:If you buy the same kind of nut used to hold your header onto your head, those will do the charm. I don't remember the technical term but the end of the nut is "pinched" to create resistance once tightened so they wont back off. Those work great.
I actually have a bunch left over from when I 1st took the motor out. Looks like I just need studs then :)
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Post by RAMM »

Nord lock washers are the way to go.

extensively used on racecars and other high dollar builds.
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Post by RAMM »

But the BEST WAY to secure the turbo to the manifold is simple...

WELD IT.
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Post by boker240 »

reg. lock washers will work or they did for me.never had one back out or get loose.
get a grade 8 bolt and nut from parts store and lock washers and u'll be fine. as far as torque goes,,,,,crank the b*tch down.there are no torque specs.

jgs has some studs also if u want to go that way and have a washer and nut on top.
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Post by Kamilitaryman »

RAMM wrote:But the BEST WAY to secure the turbo to the manifold is simple...

WELD IT.
So you're that guy that welded that T25 onto a CX racing mani? LMAO ;)
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Post by RAMM »

No I used Nord Lock washers on my setup after my bolts backed out on me twice
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Post by biggie »

Will recommend the Z31 lock tabs (they fold up flat against the nut preventing it from vibrating loose). Using them on a setup of studs/nuts.
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