Best way to secure a turbo onto a manifold?
- Kamilitaryman
- Encyclopedia-Nissan
- Posts: 1045
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 7:27 pm
- Location: Buffalo, NY
Best way to secure a turbo onto a manifold?
Just like title says:
What's the best way to secure a turbo onto a manifold?
Studs with a locknut or bolts?
Any links to some good ones? I've read somehwere that ARP made some but I can't remember where...
What's the best way to secure a turbo onto a manifold?
Studs with a locknut or bolts?
Any links to some good ones? I've read somehwere that ARP made some but I can't remember where...
PM me if you're interested in getting something powder coated!
-
- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
- Posts: 276
- Joined: Mon Apr 13, 2009 10:50 am
- Location: New Orleans, La
- Contact:
-
- Belongs To The TOP CONTRIBUTING MEMBERS!
- Posts: 2369
- Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 8:24 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
If you buy the same kind of nut used to hold your header onto your head, those will do the charm. I don't remember the technical term but the end of the nut is "pinched" to create resistance once tightened so they wont back off. Those work great.
Built KA24DE: Wiseco 9.0:1 | Eagle H Beams | ARP Head & Main Studs | BC 272s & Springs | Supertech Valves
Boost Source: Under Construction
Thinking about E-Mance? Think twice and read this:
viewtopic.php?t=45057&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Boost Source: Under Construction
Thinking about E-Mance? Think twice and read this:
viewtopic.php?t=45057&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
- Jordan Gladman
- Belongs To The TOP CONTRIBUTING MEMBERS!
- Posts: 3254
- Joined: Tue Jul 20, 2004 11:14 pm
- Location: Abbotsford, BC
I use a tapped flange on my manifold and use a socket head cap screw for bolts. The smaller bolt head bites into the turbine housing when you torque it down and locks in better than a larger hex head and washer. Nuts/bolts or even nuts/studs tend to back off more from my experience.
Also, having a well supported downpipe helps, as soon as you bottom out your cat or downpipe flange you twist the turbo on the manifold and this will loosen off your fasteners.
Also, having a well supported downpipe helps, as soon as you bottom out your cat or downpipe flange you twist the turbo on the manifold and this will loosen off your fasteners.
WWW.GLADFAB.COM SOHC Turbo Manifolds
-
- Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
- Posts: 663
- Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:03 pm
- Location: Eastern Iowa.
I believe what you are talking about is an all metal lock nut. They deform the threads to provide an added amount of prevailing torque required to rotate the nut.TryingToTurbo wrote:If you buy the same kind of nut used to hold your header onto your head, those will do the charm. I don't remember the technical term but the end of the nut is "pinched" to create resistance once tightened so they wont back off. Those work great.
Lock nuts generally come in two types, the all metal style, and the elastic style (also known as nyloc) - on high heat applications (over 250 F) the use of nyloc nuts is not recommended, as the nylon locking materal will soften and/or melt, causing loss of locking effect.
One note - generally speaking, and for the cost of a nut, it is always better to replace rather than reuse locking nuts. exceptions can be made for non-critical componets, and it's generally accepted that nyloc nuts are retain more of their locking power than all metal lock nuts as the nylon is elastic and deforms around the nut, where as all metal will either remove materal through galling or yeild the nut, both of which result in loss of locking force.
'87 200SX Hatch - complete with KA24DE swap.
'91 240SX hatch complete with super rare sunroof insert and bag.
'91 240SX hatch complete with super rare sunroof insert and bag.
chubbza5 wrote:Well hey, truck engine + truck turbo, why not!
- Kamilitaryman
- Encyclopedia-Nissan
- Posts: 1045
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 7:27 pm
- Location: Buffalo, NY
So as long as it's high heat stuff, any combination should work as long as I don't bang up my exhaust too much. I think I'll go with the stud/locknut combo.
My manifold is finally coming in next week. At 1st they told me it would be 2 weeks, then it turned into 3 weeks and now it's coming in 4.5 weeks.
Anyways, thanks for chiming in on this fellas. I just want to make sure I do things right the 1st time
PS whats the recommended amount of ft-lbs of torque to bolt it all down?
My manifold is finally coming in next week. At 1st they told me it would be 2 weeks, then it turned into 3 weeks and now it's coming in 4.5 weeks.
Anyways, thanks for chiming in on this fellas. I just want to make sure I do things right the 1st time
PS whats the recommended amount of ft-lbs of torque to bolt it all down?
PM me if you're interested in getting something powder coated!
-
- Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
- Posts: 635
- Joined: Sun May 10, 2009 4:56 pm
- Location: Waldorf, Maryland
-
- Belongs To The TOP CONTRIBUTING MEMBERS!
- Posts: 2369
- Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 8:24 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
As stated above, it is DEFINATELY a good idea to get a flexpipe in your downpipe. This will prevent 90% of your backing off issues. It did for me anyways....
Built KA24DE: Wiseco 9.0:1 | Eagle H Beams | ARP Head & Main Studs | BC 272s & Springs | Supertech Valves
Boost Source: Under Construction
Thinking about E-Mance? Think twice and read this:
viewtopic.php?t=45057&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Boost Source: Under Construction
Thinking about E-Mance? Think twice and read this:
viewtopic.php?t=45057&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
- Kamilitaryman
- Encyclopedia-Nissan
- Posts: 1045
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 7:27 pm
- Location: Buffalo, NY
Oh trust me I know. I've already had plans to run a flex pipe on mine waaay before this threadTryingToTurbo wrote:As stated above, it is DEFINATELY a good idea to get a flexpipe in your downpipe. This will prevent 90% of your backing off issues. It did for me anyways....
PM me if you're interested in getting something powder coated!
-
- Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
- Posts: 635
- Joined: Sun May 10, 2009 4:56 pm
- Location: Waldorf, Maryland
And they DO NOT come loose until you want them too. They're reusable too. Make sure to lube them and torque them properly. They're awesome on fasteners that experience a lot of shearing loads and vibration. Be aware that you can't use any other type of traditional washers anywhere in the assembly, since they'll defeat the purpose of these. I get mine through Maryland Metrics. They're willing to sell small quantities on special order.BRAD D wrote:thats a nord lock washer
The 240SX is dead. Long live the 240SX!
- Kamilitaryman
- Encyclopedia-Nissan
- Posts: 1045
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 7:27 pm
- Location: Buffalo, NY
- Kamilitaryman
- Encyclopedia-Nissan
- Posts: 1045
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 7:27 pm
- Location: Buffalo, NY
I actually have a bunch left over from when I 1st took the motor out. Looks like I just need studs thenTryingToTurbo wrote:If you buy the same kind of nut used to hold your header onto your head, those will do the charm. I don't remember the technical term but the end of the nut is "pinched" to create resistance once tightened so they wont back off. Those work great.
PM me if you're interested in getting something powder coated!
-
- Belongs To The TOP CONTRIBUTING MEMBERS!
- Posts: 3161
- Joined: Wed Apr 18, 2007 7:28 pm
- Location: Fort WaltonBeach FL.
reg. lock washers will work or they did for me.never had one back out or get loose.
get a grade 8 bolt and nut from parts store and lock washers and u'll be fine. as far as torque goes,,,,,crank the b*tch down.there are no torque specs.
jgs has some studs also if u want to go that way and have a washer and nut on top.
get a grade 8 bolt and nut from parts store and lock washers and u'll be fine. as far as torque goes,,,,,crank the b*tch down.there are no torque specs.
jgs has some studs also if u want to go that way and have a washer and nut on top.
arias 8.8.1,615 tomie inj.,clevite bearings,arp 10mm hs,z32 maf,jwt ecu,intake butterflies removed,all emissions removed,cx rad. dif dual fan controller,altima dual fans,fidanza fw,stage 3 clutch,solid d shaft,j30 rearend,energy suspension bushings,kyb struts,155 lbs weight reduction.
currently n/a.
He'll probably blow the motor, and then join the army of retards who hate on KA's for no good reason.
currently n/a.
He'll probably blow the motor, and then join the army of retards who hate on KA's for no good reason.
- Kamilitaryman
- Encyclopedia-Nissan
- Posts: 1045
- Joined: Wed Mar 11, 2009 7:27 pm
- Location: Buffalo, NY