Ways to repair/retap exhaust studs (Stripped block)

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Lopin18
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Ways to repair/retap exhaust studs (Stripped block)

Post by Lopin18 »

Well well, first of all, options are low where i live, Dominican Republic.

Engine KA24e SOHC

So stripped holes for Exhaust studs, somehow these lil studs managed to strip the head's threads...

I found out that i could use helicoil (50 bucks) or timeserts (too expensive...) but in this country noone uses those stuff, nor will i buy them, ive been thinking, what other ways do people have to repair, retap these kind of engine damages. since i cant actually use helicoil in one of the holes.... more on that later

My head has 2 holes stripped, not broken studs but stripped holes, one of them was enlarged and tapped for a larger bolt, well that ***** idea was retarded cause the new bolt is loose, it doesnt even tighthen itself to the head. and the other hole was drilled the WRONG way (they ***** drilled my head at 60 degrees instead of straight in)

I thought welding the holes or something, the hole that was drilled like crap could it be welded shut and drilled again and retapped?

Is it possible to weld shut those holes and redrill and retap them? Our head is aluminium, and i think the only welding avalible to me here is arc welding (stick welders)

i have another head, but its condition is unknown... my priority is rescuing my current head. :oops:
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TinyT
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Post by TinyT »

that head is easily savable, but its not gonna happen with an arc welder. in your case I would go with a different head. it would have been easy to drill and tap, but obviously that was not done right.
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Post by boker240 »

yep,new head and if that ever happens again a timesert is ur freind. as far as exspensive,,,doin sh*t the right way is not cheap. :wink:
arias 8.8.1,615 tomie inj.,clevite bearings,arp 10mm hs,z32 maf,jwt ecu,intake butterflies removed,all emissions removed,cx rad. dif dual fan controller,altima dual fans,fidanza fw,stage 3 clutch,solid d shaft,j30 rearend,energy suspension bushings,kyb struts,155 lbs weight reduction.
currently n/a.
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He'll probably blow the motor, and then join the army of retards who hate on KA's for no good reason.
Lopin18
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Post by Lopin18 »

Well lucky for me i got a new engine xD found one, 120 dollars here full set. :DWin Win
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Stud repair

Post by JohnR »

Their is a product called heli-coil. You drill the hole to the specified size, tap it and insert the heli-coil, This method of repair they claim is stronger than the original aluminum thread. I have repaired many Nissan VG30 engines using this. I would look and see if it is available for the size you need.
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Re: Stud repair

Post by boker240 »

John wrote:Their is a product called helicoil. You drill the hole to the specified size, tap it and insert the heli-coil, This method of repair they claim is stronger than the original aluminum thread. I have repaired many Nissan VG30 engines using this. I would look and see if it is available for the size you need.
helicoil is sh*t. timesert is the best way to repair this especially on an aluminium head.
arias 8.8.1,615 tomie inj.,clevite bearings,arp 10mm hs,z32 maf,jwt ecu,intake butterflies removed,all emissions removed,cx rad. dif dual fan controller,altima dual fans,fidanza fw,stage 3 clutch,solid d shaft,j30 rearend,energy suspension bushings,kyb struts,155 lbs weight reduction.
currently n/a.
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He'll probably blow the motor, and then join the army of retards who hate on KA's for no good reason.
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Jmcc
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Re: Stud repair

Post by Jmcc »

JohnR wrote:Their is a product called heli-coil. You drill the hole to the specified size, tap it and insert the heli-coil,quote]


he knows what thay are. he already said somthing about it if you read every thing.



helicoil is sh*t. timesert is the best way to repair this especially on an aluminium head.
thay both get the job done.
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Post by rn240sx »

boker240 wrote:as far as exspensive,,,doin sh*t the right way is not cheap. :wink:
AMEN to that statement...

and what another ka-t member says... do it right or do it twice..
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Post by tom550 »

rn240sx wrote:
boker240 wrote:as far as exspensive,,,doin sh*t the right way is not cheap. :wink:
AMEN to that statement...

and what another ka-t member says... do it right or do it twice..
or if your me
do it right or do it twice then realize the second time you did it the same or worst. then realize your entire car is ghetto rigged :shock:
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boker240
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Post by boker240 »

rn240sx wrote:
boker240 wrote:as far as exspensive,,,doin sh*t the right way is not cheap. :wink:
AMEN to that statement...

and what another ka-t member says... do it right or do it twice..
lol^^^ or u get 2 outa 3 ..............cheap ,fast, reliable....LOL
or if your me
do it right or do it twice then realize the second time you did it the same or worst. then realize your entire car is ghetto rigged


LMAO!!!!^^
arias 8.8.1,615 tomie inj.,clevite bearings,arp 10mm hs,z32 maf,jwt ecu,intake butterflies removed,all emissions removed,cx rad. dif dual fan controller,altima dual fans,fidanza fw,stage 3 clutch,solid d shaft,j30 rearend,energy suspension bushings,kyb struts,155 lbs weight reduction.
currently n/a.
Image

He'll probably blow the motor, and then join the army of retards who hate on KA's for no good reason.
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heli-coil

Post by JohnR »

My apologies I missed that he knew about helicoil. However if done right a heli-coil will hold. Stud may break but threads will hold. Biggest downside is that sometimes the coil comes out with the stud, but if the stud is not removed it is good. So lesson learned I will take some reading lessons.
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Re: Stud repair

Post by trk240sx »

JohnR wrote:Their is a product called heli-coil. You drill the hole to the specified size, tap it and insert the heli-coil, This method of repair they claim is stronger than the original aluminum thread. I have repaired many Nissan VG30 engines using this. I would look and see if it is available for the size you need.
Heli-coils get my vote too.
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Post by Jackasknissan »

imo heli coils are preferable for aluminum parts that are frequently installed and removed.

.

you can also make reference marks, and prehaeat the head to 300 ish F in an oven, and gouge out the hole larger , and fill it in with a tig, and start fresh.


for the helicoils, ty[ically on a lot of things i willl red loc-tite them in, as it provides a bit more holding power, and the helicoil wont" float out" undr vibration.

( equal pitch the od and id on the heli coil, it will happen over time!
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Post by boker240 »

have any of u ever used a timesert???? while u can use a helicoil and thread lock,,,,it kinda defeats the purpose to use the thread lock on a helicoil cuz it seeps allover it,,,,locks the stud to the helicoil and locks the helicoil to the head. now what do u think is gonna happen when u try to remove it??? :lol: right,,,the helicoil is gonna come out with the stud. not what u want to happen.

a timesert is a basically a inside and outside threaded stud. so when u use thread lock on the outside of it to keep the timesert in the head forever,,,none of the threadlock gets on the actual stud therefor u can remove it without the timesert coming with it.
arias 8.8.1,615 tomie inj.,clevite bearings,arp 10mm hs,z32 maf,jwt ecu,intake butterflies removed,all emissions removed,cx rad. dif dual fan controller,altima dual fans,fidanza fw,stage 3 clutch,solid d shaft,j30 rearend,energy suspension bushings,kyb struts,155 lbs weight reduction.
currently n/a.
Image

He'll probably blow the motor, and then join the army of retards who hate on KA's for no good reason.
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Post by Jmcc »

^^^ i mean it could happen. but for me it didn't i had to helicoil my head for the idler sprocket bolt cause it poped the threads one day. i had to pull apart the motor couple days ago and i had red thread lock on it didn't pulll the helicoil out.

and it held for 10,000 plus mile of beating the living hell out of it.

and toyota has a recall on some cars for a head gasket problem. well the recall parts comes with a helicoil set, cause of the aluminum block every time you pull the head bolts it rips all the threads out of the block so you have to helicoil all of them.

but i have never used them cause i can get helicoils for free from my job. and im broke just like every body els. so im gunna go with free lol. thay sound good and i might try them one day.

but to me seems that they both will work.
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Post by boker240 »

well the recall parts comes with a helicoil set
i think u meant timesert. dealerships don't use helicoils.
arias 8.8.1,615 tomie inj.,clevite bearings,arp 10mm hs,z32 maf,jwt ecu,intake butterflies removed,all emissions removed,cx rad. dif dual fan controller,altima dual fans,fidanza fw,stage 3 clutch,solid d shaft,j30 rearend,energy suspension bushings,kyb struts,155 lbs weight reduction.
currently n/a.
Image

He'll probably blow the motor, and then join the army of retards who hate on KA's for no good reason.
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Post by Jmcc »

yea thay do man.
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Post by Jackasknissan »

your doing somthing wrong if you get thread lock on the inside of a helicoil instering one....
plus you dont assemble until its set... no sense in rushing what is already a " make due" fix
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