real bad vibration and clunking from rear left
- R34SR
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real bad vibration and clunking from rear left
Ok I just completed my suspension job a few weeks ago, full energy bushings everywhere, ISIS RUCA and Stance LX coils.....everything was working great for weeks....until today i started to get this terrible vibration around 60-65mph coming from the rear of the car....sounds kinda like rear driver side....also there is a clicking nose that increases and decreases with the rate of speed......i looked under there and i dont see anything visually wrong....its cold as ***** so forgive me for being hasty........im actually wondering if i may have a bad axle.....do these symptoms sound like its possibly a bad axle? the clicking sound which is similar to a front cv joint gone bad is the only reason im asking.....it even clunks when i let of the clutch quickly....very similar to badd dif/subframe bushings but mine are brand new poly bushings..........also to make things wierder the vibration kinda comes and goes....
Any suggestions? im grounding the car until i can fix this.
Any suggestions? im grounding the car until i can fix this.
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TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
did you check the tires to make sure the steel belt did not get away...
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- R34SR
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So jacked her up, went underneath to check out the drive axles.......left + right axles look fine, bolts look fine....went to turn the drive shaft only to find all 4 bolts loose and the shaft wobbling around..........this is on my one piece aluminum btw.....so folks...loctite those bitches or you could end up in alot of trouble like i almost did.
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BW S257 SX-E .78AR
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CTS V CALIPERS
STANCE LX+ Coilovers
J30 LSD
AME FS01 WHEELS 18X9 +25
TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
- Kfred
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Re: real bad vibration and clunking from rear left
Yeah that would have sucked big time. Glad you caught it before it destroyed your ds and possibly your undercarriage.
^^ good call ^^R34SR wrote: im grounding the car until i can fix this.
RIP Nate(480sx)...
- R34SR
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Yea the more i think about it the more thankful i am that i decided to stop driving the car......honestly damaging the car is one thing but when i stop to think of that drive shaft coming loose at 70mph and possibly becoming a projectile towards the car behind me....that could have possibly hurt or killed someone....scary thought all for some loose bolts.
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BW S257 SX-E .78AR
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STANCE LX+ Coilovers
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TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
did you just simply forget to torque them down or put them in wrong. I have bolted in numerous drive shafts and never had this issue.
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13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
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Same here. I've had those bolts out probably 8 times in the past couple of years. Never had a problem with them coming loose.supakat wrote:did you just simply forget to torque them down or put them in wrong. I have bolted in numerous drive shafts and never had this issue.
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--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
- R34SR
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nope ive removed that shaft plenty of times to fiddle with ebrake cables, exhaust and differential....in 3 years ive never had this happen.....im certain i torqued them down to spec.....im gonna use new bolts + loctite this time around just to be safe.
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BW S257 SX-E .78AR
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Full Race twin scroll manifold
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Mazworx z32 tranny swap
CTS V CALIPERS
STANCE LX+ Coilovers
J30 LSD
AME FS01 WHEELS 18X9 +25
TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
i dont torque to spec, I just make sure the bolt head is facing the front so it locks on the flange and the lock washer is with the nut then use a box wrench and tighten the f%ck out of it. Yea the sway bar messes with you and the space in between the diff cover and nut is small, but you can find a box wrench that will fit. Make sure to position the drive shaft so two bolts are accessible and put the tranny is gear and put the ebrake up for added resistance. Then tighten like theres no tomorrow. Release gear and ebrake, move for the other two bolts and repeat. Works every time and no need for locktite. Also, always use the box end instead of the open end, the open end will start to give and either break or strip the nut.
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supakat wrote:i dont torque to spec, I just make sure the bolt head is facing the front so it locks on the flange and the lock washer is with the nut then use a box wrench and tighten the f%ck out of it. Yea the sway bar messes with you and the space in between the diff cover and nut is small, but you can find a box wrench that will fit. Make sure to position the drive shaft so two bolts are accessible and put the tranny is gear and put the ebrake up for added resistance. Then tighten like theres no tomorrow. Release gear and ebrake, move for the other two bolts and repeat. Works every time and no need for locktite. Also, always use the box end instead of the open end, the open end will start to give and either break or strip the nut.
i have to use the open end of the wrench cause of the j30diff and the abs sensor.
but i have had the drive shaft out prolly 8+ times with all the tranny swaps and never had this problem. and i used to beat the piss out of the car and drive train and never had a problem with the drive shaft coming loose.
but o well you cought it and fixed it. you may of forgot to get those tightend down prolly started then moved to somthing els in the car.
we all make mistakes your in the middle of working on so many thing then some times you just end up jumping around and forgot something, i do it so dont feel bad.
i have 92-93 j30 diff as well.
EDIT: This is what I have. Where you see the nut in between the output flange and diff is where I fit the box wrench.
EDIT: This is what I have. Where you see the nut in between the output flange and diff is where I fit the box wrench.
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- R34SR
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I also have the J30 Diff......i doubt it, but its definitely in the realm of possibility that i forgot to completely tighten them down........and damn supakat...i hope you cleaned up that rusty diff!! 10 mins worth of wire wheel and some rustoleum does wonders!
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BW S257 SX-E .78AR
ID1050x Injectors
Full Race twin scroll manifold
ISIS FMIC
Mazworx z32 tranny swap
CTS V CALIPERS
STANCE LX+ Coilovers
J30 LSD
AME FS01 WHEELS 18X9 +25
TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
thats what i said a couple times to the ladies...lolJmcc wrote:yea my wrench is to fat it won't fit. and im not grinding it down.
nah thats not my diff. I hardly take pics of stuff when working on the car. I am more concerned on getting it done before the night fall due to mosquitoes and light.
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13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
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13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
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- 240sx Wannabe
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How much of a difference does that aluminum driveshaft and lightweight flywheel make on a NA 240 man? I'm just wondering if it's worth it to lighten up the drivetrain while or just saving some cash and keeping it like it is.
You can lay bricks for 10 years but never be a mason; but you suck one **** and you're a ****sucker for life.
- R34SR
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well honestly i dont know.......see when i bought my s14 it came as an auto.....i didnt even drive it once as an auto....i immediately tore it down and did a 5 speed swap with the lightened flywheel and one piece driveshaft......i like to do things once and not waste money on something im gonna end up buying again in the future...( why buy a oem flywheel and driveshaft)....at least that was my thinking at the time....i can tell you this...i love the simplicity of having no center carrier bearing to cause issues and also everyone says my car revs up very quickly due to the flywheel.
One bad thing about a lightened flywheel is that it takes some getting used to in terms of shifting ....it used to be jerky at first but then you learn quick how to drive with a lighter flywheel......overall id say its a good upgrade.
One bad thing about a lightened flywheel is that it takes some getting used to in terms of shifting ....it used to be jerky at first but then you learn quick how to drive with a lighter flywheel......overall id say its a good upgrade.
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Mazworx z32 tranny swap
CTS V CALIPERS
STANCE LX+ Coilovers
J30 LSD
AME FS01 WHEELS 18X9 +25
TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
Make sure you use the proper hardened metal style lock nuts!!! not the nylon kind!R34SR wrote:So jacked her up, went underneath to check out the drive axles.......left + right axles look fine, bolts look fine....went to turn the drive shaft only to find all 4 bolts loose and the shaft wobbling around..........this is on my one piece aluminum btw.....so folks...loctite those bitches or you could end up in alot of trouble like i almost did.
- Walperstyle
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are you still having problems?
with the car jacked up did you try the simple stuff like grabbing the tires and giving them a 'wiggle' to see if anything is loose? aka, 'the ol shake the crap out of things' approach?
there could be a possibility your driveshaft is not balanced. I got my 1 piece second hand and the previous owner had some weight added to the one side of it to get it balanced.
with the car jacked up did you try the simple stuff like grabbing the tires and giving them a 'wiggle' to see if anything is loose? aka, 'the ol shake the crap out of things' approach?
there could be a possibility your driveshaft is not balanced. I got my 1 piece second hand and the previous owner had some weight added to the one side of it to get it balanced.