IM A FAT NOOB, but im still smart. LOL. QUESTIONS! New s13!

Basic tech questions such as future setups, different turbo kits, car diagnosis, etc
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IM A FAT NOOB, but im still smart. LOL. QUESTIONS! New s13!

Post by s14BEAST808 » Fri Mar 25, 2011 11:17 am

So i just picked up another 240. Its a 92 se converted to 5 speed. dohc engine and its a black coupe.
When i purchased the car for a grand lol (only 120,000 miles on it) the engine wasnt reving past 2500r.p.m.s. So i cleaned the maf and that settled that. So now it seems to stumble a lot. I found 2 unplugged vac lines in the back of the engine near the egr. Plugged them in. It does stumble a little bit still but i cant tell relly cause the motor mounts are *****. the engine ***** shakes so bad when you rev it up.
its werid, after you start it it will be idling about 2,000 rpms then fall down to a 1000 then kinda stumble then rev back up to 2000, and it just keeps doing that. ***** pounds on the freeway LOL, the 240 was pulling away from my sisters v6 vtec accord, but it is automajic haha.

From working on my s14 alot i know the basic's on what to clean replace and hopefully solve other issues. There a fat possibilty of things i havnt looked at yet, but if someone could just give me details on what possibly things to really check.

I really havnt looked over the enigne quiet as well i should but i will.

Change oil, clean maf, change spark plugs, clean out IAC, check for vacuum leaks EVERYWHERE, Replace motor & tranny mounts, sea foam the engine, What else?

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Post by katrecipe » Fri Mar 25, 2011 11:27 am

Check the cap and rotor. And look for ground wires not connected to the correct referenced spots...
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Post by s14BEAST808 » Fri Mar 25, 2011 11:30 am

OOOHH yeah thanks didnt think about that the ground wires. Well does the obd1 dohc ka have a rotor and cap? Someone set up an aftermark ignition pack on the side.

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Post by s14BEAST808 » Fri Mar 25, 2011 11:36 am

Also the engine kinda gets pretty hot, its missing the fan shroud and the elctirc fan for the a/c. Does the fan shroud help out that much? or maybe its just low on coolant

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Post by basic » Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:05 pm

the shroud makes a huge difference if using the stock fan. If i were you i would either find a shroud for it, or convert to electric fans properly fitted with a shroud. the AC fan doesn't really matter taht much, but the clutch fan shroud does.

+1 on cap and rotor for the dizzy.
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Post by SoulGuardian » Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:16 pm

if ir shake that much past 2500 rpm. could it be bad timing? distribution rotor is prolly offset.

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Post by s14BEAST808 » Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:25 pm

ill get some videos on later today, and let you guys know what i find. Ok rotor and cap is garantee then. I really dont understand where it goes tho. the dizzy on this dohc looks completey different then the one on my s14. I know there different in obd but where is the rotor located?

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Post by basic » Fri Mar 25, 2011 3:58 pm

you had better get us a pic on your ignition setup. If you can't find the cap something is different. the dizzy and cap is pretty easy to spot (front of engine, driver side, sticking out sideways, spark plug wires attach to it- may be under a plastic cover, but that's where it should be)
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Post by s14BEAST808 » Sat Mar 26, 2011 12:47 am

Alright so i replaced the spark plugs and now the car seems to perform better but it idles at 2,000 rpms?? and it doenst go down. I tryed adjusting the screw but no luck, i didnt want it to go all the way inside. Also i checked the rotor and cap, there rusty as hell, so ill replace those as well. But why is idling high? Yeah so the stock igniton coil broke im asuming because they have installed an aftermarket one. They striped the harness a little bit for two wires that goto the aftermarket coil. Where do they go on the stock one? Also while looking into the intake maniold theres some loose wires there, like unpluged, just two, but everything else looks fine. is there something thats electriv that sits on top of the mani? Aso the PAIR valve has been removed. Thats what they call it in the FSM. There a bottom metal pipe that comes out of the headers to the unit. Anyone know i thats a badthing to not have? I have no emission laws here.
i will post pics tomorrow. Girlfriend is being a beezy

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Post by s14BEAST808 » Sat Mar 26, 2011 6:36 pm

can someone please help?
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^^ is that round thing supposed to be there? Its connected to the EGR. Should i block of the egr? Where would i reroute the wires? Just make sure the correct things get vaccum?
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Does this coil work for the car? I kinda wanna go back to the stock, but its broken im assuming.[/img]

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Post by s14BEAST808 » Sat Mar 26, 2011 6:37 pm

Well i know its supposed to be there. but it not being bolted to the mani, is that bad? WHY IS it idling at 2000 rpms?

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Post by basic » Sat Mar 26, 2011 8:46 pm

PAIR valve isn't needed, but if they didn't plug it up, you will have a huge vacuum leak, possibly causing the high idle. As for plugs on the front of the intake, there's two engine coolant sensor ones, a knock sensor, the TPS, and the subharness that goes over to the dizzy. that's all I can remember off the top of my head. I think there may be one more, but i don't recall.
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Post by supakat » Sun Mar 27, 2011 5:30 am

3 quick reasons why it is idling at 2k: 1. throttle cable to tight or has a snag or throttle stop to high. 2. the PO probably adjusted the IACV too open. 3. vacuum leak.

I am betting on the IACV due to it stumbling down low then when it gets a hold of itself, it will carry up the revs to 2k. is could be in conjunction with something else as well. You gotta love mechanics. But the IACV adjustment screw is on the rear of the mani. Check this first before you go crazy looking for something. Also, with the car on, try closing the throttle manually and see if the revs drops. This can point you in another direction as well.

Location of adjustment screw. Clockwise will carry down the rpm.

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Post by s14BEAST808 » Sun Mar 27, 2011 3:59 pm

Yeah i tryed adjusting the IACV first. I turned it so far in i was scared it would fall inside. It did absoulty nothing to the idle. SO something else is making it this way, I tryed to see i the throttle cable was tight or pulling to hard, there was slack and didnt look to tight. I didnt tho have a chance to look at the throttle stop. I have seriosly looked more for vac leaks but really see much more. Ill take a look even more tomorrow. What does the PAIR valve all connect too??

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Post by s14BEAST808 » Sun Mar 27, 2011 4:02 pm

ill but some carb spray and check for more vac leaks tomorrow as well
EVERYONES INPUT IS MUCH NEEDED. The track is going to open soon, and i wanna be the first one out!

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Post by supakat » Sun Mar 27, 2011 6:02 pm

use a boost tester and open the throttle to see if you can hear hissing. What if the pcv rubber hoses are cracked or something similar? I imagine the issue is past the throttle or at it. Take off the pipe an inspect the tb for anything. I would do a boost leak test though.
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Post by s14BEAST808 » Sun Mar 27, 2011 6:58 pm

How do I perform a boost leak test if im N/A?

Should i remove the top of the mani and inspect all vac lines? Like especially the pcv tubes and such? I got in there good with a flash light, everything seems to look good, but i didnt really get a good look at the pcv tube. I'll remove the alternator and stuff and check it out again.

When the car was idling at 2k, it was for about an hour straight, no dropping in idle, just a straight 2k. Car did get a little hot too, but there in so fan shroud, so i know thats why.

My friend said the car is now idling at 1,5k today. So how did it flucatuate? Could this just be that the IACV is dirty?? Or Not working correctly? JW thats all.

Ok i'll remove the pipe too and see how the throttle sits, and inspect inside.

Also the car is not throwing any CEL's, which is surprising because of the condition its in, i think there was front end damange too, but someone replaced everything except with no bumper support. I know the CEL light is there, because it lights up when the key is fully turned. Is there a way to jimmy rig the light into not throwing CEL's?
This car was automajic before, now 5 speed with the auto ecu, which doesnt matter i think.

Thank you so much supakat, you da man

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Post by supakat » Mon Mar 28, 2011 3:43 am

Boost/Pressure test does not matter if your boosted or not. You are trying to find the leak in the system. So do not think of it as a boost leak test. Let's call it a pressure test. When in vacuum you will only see about 20 in/hg. This is only about 10psi of vacuum. When you pressurize the intake track when hooked up to a compressor, you will definitely hear the leak. You can do a search for this.

When we work on a/c systems, we pressurize the a/c system because to find the leak when in vacuum is only about 30 in/hg which is about 1 bar(17.7 psi). It is hard to hear where the leak is. Hook it up to the compressor and you will hear where it is coming from.

I would not move the intake mani just to see this. It is a real pain especially if you have your EGR on. It could be a faulty/dirty iacv. Flush it out with sea foam deep creep or carb cleaner.

The only way I know to hide a check engine light is to remove the bulb on the cluster. There could be a way to to turn it off electronically but I dont think anyone would go through that.
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Post by s14BEAST808 » Tue Mar 29, 2011 2:03 am

Thank you so much for your response. I got a air compresser, so i'll look up how i can hook it up.

While hooking my new fan shroud and **** today, started the car is it was leazking coolant like a bitchhhhh.

These hoses were bad.
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Where can i find these hoses? Are these dealer only?

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Post by body80 » Tue Mar 29, 2011 9:47 am

Welcome to the world of older cars.

It's a never ending battle. When you fix one thing something else will break. Just stay calm and realize it's part of the game of life.
Jeff

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Post by s14BEAST808 » Tue Mar 29, 2011 11:00 pm

body80 wrote:Welcome to the world of older cars.

It's a never ending battle. When you fix one thing something else will break. Just stay calm and realize it's part of the game of life.
LOL ok thanks?

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Post by s14BEAST808 » Wed Mar 30, 2011 12:49 am

@supakat
I really cant find **** on a pressure leak test on a n/a motor.

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Post by katrecipe » Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:28 am

The pic of your coil^^^ To me it looks like your insulation for your wiring going to the coil is rubbing maybe its exposed or maybe thats something else???
I would get another stock coil and K.I.S.S.
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Post by airman » Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:28 am

s14BEAST808 wrote:@supakat
I really cant find **** on a pressure leak test on a n/a motor.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=boost+leak+tester

There are plenty of instructions online on how to make one. Clamp it down to your throttle body. Turn engine to TDC. Pressurize the system. Listen for "PSSSSSSSSSSSSSSTTHHHH" noises. Locate, seal, repeat.

Hope that helps

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Post by supakat » Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:44 am

I love lmgtfy. I have used that quite a few times on here.
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Post by airman » Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:47 am

Yesh, I'm a google nerd and have been for over ten years (discovered it soon after it debuted) and I use LMGTFY regularly...because the general population needs to be educated on the easiness and usefulness of its power!

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Post by s14BEAST808 » Wed Mar 30, 2011 11:59 am

Yeah the coil has the two wires that going into the front. also looking into purchasing a new coil as well. Could this coil be to much for the car, maybe thats why its idling high? IDK just thinking.
Thanks for the help on the leak test! :D

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Post by s14BEAST808 » Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:27 pm

^^ **** spammer


SOO turns out, every ***** coolant hose except for the one that runs to the heater, which looks like a bi*ch to replace, and hopefully it doesnt leak, is replaced. TURNS out the dumb ass who had this car before, was running it with no fan shroud, no t-stat, and completely with all water. SO we got a used sohc fan shroud, that fits nicely, new t-stat that was like 8 bucks at Checkers, and new coolant. I didnt know air gets trapped in there, so we gotta leak out the air today, and see how it runs. LOL my Oil Sensor was so bad, it cracked in the housing and leaked all in the electrical plug...., plus it was leaking oil like a wet pussssy, so bought a new one, put a little rtv on the bottom, and she was set.

Now back to idling issue. I had my s14 next to the s13. Both are dohc now. The vacuum lines i belive are the same between the 92 and 96. THE lines im talking about are the one right below the throttle. Rubber going to metal lines that run to the back of the car.
QUESTION is, hte vacuum tube on the far right, that connects to the intake, can you BLOW IN IT?? Because on the s13 you can, but on my s14 you CAN NOT WHATS SO EVER. I also hear a slight hissing in the back against the firewall when i blow in this line. Im assuming thats a vac leak? BUT can anyone tell me if they can blow theres too?

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Post by katrecipe » Fri Apr 01, 2011 2:52 pm

starting fluid works sometimes to find a leak when you rev the motor and spray in the areas you think might be leaking if their is leak then the revs should go higher? give it a try. Or baby powder when a leak is present the baby powder would simply blow away or get sucked in?
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Post by s14BEAST808 » Sat Apr 02, 2011 6:00 pm

can someone answer me question?

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