THE ULTIMATE S13 SUSPENSION THREAD!!!!! Vote Sticky

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KA24ETZTM
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THE ULTIMATE S13 SUSPENSION THREAD!!!!! Vote Sticky

Post by KA24ETZTM » Thu Mar 31, 2011 5:53 pm

I hope you guys find this useful....this is a compilation of all the suspension info I can find which i will update as new things come in.

Energy Suspension Master Kit
Part number: 7.18106

****Rear Lower Control Arm Ball Joint****

I dont have any pics as of yet but i wanted everyone to know that an 89 Sentra flca ball joint will fit your s13 rears. I know this is common knowledege to some but I wanted to clear up any confusion. The sentra ball joint is 38.1mm where as the s13 is 38mm. I simply froze the ball joint for an hour and it slid right in. With this install you can simply use a press or possibly a vice and some large sockets.

MOOG part number: K9633

Heres a link for all you "do it yourselfers" with limited tools on installing the ball joints.
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/s13-re ... ement.html

Installing zerk fittings with poly bushings
This is for you guys that want to go extreme.
http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthr ... light=zerk

So with some help from sdaigle240 I finished my rear spindles and control arms. Front installs are easy to find online but I had no luck finding anything about how to install the rears. A shop press is nearly impossible with the wierd angles the rear spindels are in....this is the best alternative. After some research and help I found the best method for the polyurethane bushings as well. Simple enough it requires 1 bolt, 1 nut, 2 large washers, and your freezer. I also decided to show u guys the best way to remove the old control arm and spindle bushings. Lets begin there.

Removing stock bushings.
Step 1: First start by burning all the rubber out of the bushing.
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Step 2: After that, use a hack saw to cut the bushings sleeve in half...this will remove the preload and allow u to remove the bushing. Trust me unless you have the worlds craziest press those rear spindle bushings are only coming out this way.
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Step 3: Next heat the outer part of the spindle, control arm, etc. to expand the metal. I suggest a acetalene (think i spelled that right) torch. Butane is gonna take forever. Once heated hammer out the sleeve with a hammer and chisel or use an air hammer.
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Installing New Bushings

Step 1: Put the bushings in the freezer for about 5 hours at least. This keeps the bushing from mushrooming so much when they begin to press in.

Step 2: Find some thick rags to lay over the jaws of your vice to keep from scratching those newly painted arms or spindles. Continue buy using the supplied lube :bukkake: and spread it inside the surface of the arm or spindle.

Step 3: Next take your bushing out of the freezer and grease the outside of the bushing. Then look for side with the largest tapered edge. Mine were the ones with the serial number. Go ahead and slide your washers, bolt, and nut in place with the bushing.

Step 4: Use your wrenches to begin the pressing motion. Try to center the bushing as much as possible. As the bushing begins to slide in some edges may linger. Dont worry I found that if you keep tightining it would eventually give way and slide in 99% of the time. If not have a friend coax the lip in with a large flat balde screw driver the lip is circled in the picture below....your not going to mess up the bushing I promise. Bottom your bolt all the way out.
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Step 5: Once you bottom out the bolt remove it. Now use the supplied pins and grease them and the inside of the bushing. Continue as before using the bolt as your press.
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Step 6: Clean the excess grease off and admire your work 8)
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Solid Subframe Bushings


Step 1: Get a good air hammer...if you dont have access to one you can use the steps used to remove the spindle bushings. I used my Matco from work. Also picked up a good beveled tip and used a hammer tip.
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Step 2: Begin by driving the bottom side edges of the bushing up and inward to relieve bushing pre load.
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Step 3: Drive your beveled tip carefully on the edge of the bushing to drive the bushing out. Your looking to hit the top side lip of the bushing. If it jams use a hammer tip to finish it off. You can easily see where to drive the tip.After removal clean the inside of the sleeve and remove any burrs of imperfections to make installation easier.
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Step 4: A large bolt and washers will work fine but I had acces to a bearing race installer which worked perfectly. Use a good impact to drive your bushings in. Simple as that. With the right tools this took me about 30min. Good luck and dont give up. :D
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Last edited by KA24ETZTM on Wed Apr 20, 2011 4:43 pm, edited 7 times in total.
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Post by tom550 » Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:16 pm

haha a post asking for help on how to do it then now your teaching us.
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Post by KA24ETZTM » Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:18 pm

lol, yea.....Im actually gonna add the rest with pics on removing the bushings and inner sleeves. I have those in my build post. Just gonna transfer them over. There is literally no write ups on this. Just figured I could save some people the trouble.
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Post by tom550 » Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:22 pm

yea its cool. nice to have info on the web when needed.
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Post by TryingToTurbo » Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:37 pm

tom550 wrote:haha a post asking for help on how to do it then now your teaching us.
so how does it work for you? usually people have to learn a technique before they can teach it to others....
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Post by KA24ETZTM » Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:37 pm

So I just added the rest vote to sticky I think it will help out :D
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Post by proconcept23 » Thu Mar 31, 2011 8:38 pm

i wish i had a shop that nice when i was doing my subframe bushings :(
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Post by KoukiKAT » Thu Mar 31, 2011 9:01 pm

Thanks for the tips and the write up. How's articulation with the stiffer bushings?
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Post by sdaigle240 » Fri Apr 01, 2011 5:38 am

good **** man. i wish i took pics of the subframe and diff work to add, but i was so damn greasy the whole weekend i didnt wanna touch my phone. those LCAs are such a whore!!! the uprights were cake but i was so skerd of over cutting the sleeve on the LCAs b/c the metal is so thin. my pops spent alot of time at his work pressing those out.
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Post by KA24ETZTM » Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:31 am

lmao, dude same here, i was holding my phone with a rag. Damn install was the messiest stickiest thing I think I have ever done.
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Post by Turbo24sxt » Sun Apr 03, 2011 8:20 am

KA24ETZTM wrote: Damn install was the messiest stickiest thing I think I have ever done.

hahaha too easy to respond ...

good work though wish someone would have posted something like this years ago :)
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Post by ATLspeed » Sun Apr 03, 2011 3:56 pm

high five good sir on the install
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Post by KA24ETZTM » Sat Apr 09, 2011 8:15 pm

So Ive decided to make this a entire S13 suspension install. Im going to have pics up on the solid subframe bushings next.
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Post by tom550 » Sat Apr 09, 2011 9:27 pm

you should just make a new post with all of it organized.
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Post by katrecipe » Thu Apr 14, 2011 10:05 am

I have recently done this and this **** is a pain in the ass..
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Post by godrifttoday » Fri Apr 15, 2011 2:34 am

Ok first u could remove it with a press far easier, u just did not try the right angle . What I did was put a big socket underneath The arm. And let the arm sit on the Hydraulic press plates. Installing the bushing was a PITA ... I coudnt Install the bushing at all!!!!even after freezing them. They keep binding .... So what I did. And this I's how stock bushing are.... I took off the lip from one side of the energy bushing!!!! OMG so easy!!! After that it was a piece of cake !!!! And by the way if u wanted to be a sticky u should have installed zirk fittings!!! With groves Cut inside the bushing!!!! Maybe I should post a write up lol ... But Nissan road racing has one allready
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Post by KA24ETZTM » Mon Apr 18, 2011 8:10 pm

godrifttoday wrote:Ok first u could remove it with a press far easier, u just did not try the right angle . What I did was put a big socket underneath The arm. And let the arm sit on the Hydraulic press plates. Installing the bushing was a PITA ... I coudnt Install the bushing at all!!!!even after freezing them. They keep binding .... So what I did. And this I's how stock bushing are.... I took off the lip from one side of the energy bushing!!!! OMG so easy!!! After that it was a piece of cake !!!! And by the way if u wanted to be a sticky u should have installed zirk fittings!!! With groves Cut inside the bushing!!!! Maybe I should post a write up lol ... But Nissan road racing has one allready
Yeah zirk fittings are nice but not everyone needs that. Drifters deffinately but my car will barely be driven except to the drag strip and the ocasional weekend. If need be I can always do that later. My method for installation worked just fine and not everyone has access to a press. I did my spindles at the Honda dealership I worked at at the time and it was a very nice 60,000 ton press. There was no room for the spindles with the wierd angles. If you use a good air hammer and hack saw or possibly a good airsaw it shouldnt take long at all. Glad yours worked out :D For those that want it Ill add a link.
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Post by Walperstyle » Thu May 05, 2011 11:29 pm

So just to be sure, The Rear Lower Control Arm needs to have the metal part cut out in order to Install Energy Suspension bushing :?:

does the Energy Suspension kit have another metal bushing or is it simply the 2 piece polyU and inner metal part :?:

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Post by Walperstyle » Fri May 06, 2011 2:30 pm

ANSWER YES! Cut the sleeve out!
IIRC one side is tapered to make them go in easier.

Did you take the outer bushing sleeve out?
yes the inner sleeves are out, hmm i didnt notice the taper. any other tips? does freezing them really help?
LINKS FOR HELP

http://zilvia.net/f/tech-talk/79231-tip ... g-s13.html

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/103466-energy- ... -rear.html

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/energy ... guide.html

------------------------------------------------ :wink:
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Post by KA24ETZTM » Fri May 06, 2011 3:20 pm

Answered your own question :D I believe the fourth pic down is the sleeve u cut and then drive out. If that was left in you would never get the poly bushing in.
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Post by Walperstyle » Fri May 06, 2011 6:28 pm

I think I started with the hardest ones of all the bushings. I have one sleeve left. Everything is in the freezer at the moment.
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Post by KA24ETZTM » Sat Jul 09, 2011 9:26 pm

I can't believe only a few people found this helpful.
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Post by DRFTPUNK » Sun Jul 10, 2011 8:20 am

Imma +1 for sticky i need to get around to this ive only installed the front part of my Energy master bushing kit rears looked too annoying haha

it's too blasted hot out side i get motivated, walk outside, then ...**** this im going back in!
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