Coolant Bleeding
Coolant Bleeding
I have just installed my engine from building so everything is completely empty coolant wise. Do I have to follow the fsm procedure or can I just run the engine nose up and open radiator cap and bleeder bolt? I plan on using the motoman method of break in and I don't want to erase the hatch marks before I get a chance to get it under load. The FSM procedure looks like it will take a while.
- NeverSatisfied
- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
- Posts: 223
- Joined: Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:23 am
- Location: Arizona
-
- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
- Posts: 397
- Joined: Fri Apr 02, 2010 8:16 pm
- Location: Cali
Lift off the front as high up as you can.
Fill it up and remove bleeded screw and radiator cap off.
Turn on car with heater on max on and let it warm up.
You will see foamy bubbles start to come out of the top bleeder hose so squeeze all the hoses and keep filling the radiator to not let it run out of water.
Re-tighten the screw bleeder screw loosely and just watch the top of the radiator and keep it full.
Once the thermostat opens just add water to fill it up and keep an eye on the temp gauge.
It will take a while. But keep filling and squeezing and topping it off.
I then lower the car flat on the ground and remove the bleeded screw again until solid water starts to come out. Retighten it after it does fully then just add water to radiator and thats it.
Once the car cools check coolant level again and refill and make sure you have some fluid in the coolant tank before you start.
Fill it up and remove bleeded screw and radiator cap off.
Turn on car with heater on max on and let it warm up.
You will see foamy bubbles start to come out of the top bleeder hose so squeeze all the hoses and keep filling the radiator to not let it run out of water.
Re-tighten the screw bleeder screw loosely and just watch the top of the radiator and keep it full.
Once the thermostat opens just add water to fill it up and keep an eye on the temp gauge.
It will take a while. But keep filling and squeezing and topping it off.
I then lower the car flat on the ground and remove the bleeded screw again until solid water starts to come out. Retighten it after it does fully then just add water to radiator and thats it.
Once the car cools check coolant level again and refill and make sure you have some fluid in the coolant tank before you start.
just fill up the rad, put the heat on just turn it to heat don't have to have the blower motor on. let idle for about 10-15 min. then hold 2k rpm for about 5 min. then shut the car off with the cap open still let it cool down. and you will need to add some coolant as it cools then you should be all good.
-
- Knows Some Stuff About 240's!
- Posts: 311
- Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2011 8:44 pm
- Location: Greenwood SC / Nashville Tn
OP, here you go:
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill ... roduct_top
I bought this in prep for my new built motor. Just installed new Mishimoto rad and filled the other day. The tall funnel becomes the highest point in the system and the airtight seal causes the coolant in the funnel to push all the air out. You can hear it whistle out the bleed hole. BUY THIS FUNNEL!
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Spill ... roduct_top
I bought this in prep for my new built motor. Just installed new Mishimoto rad and filled the other day. The tall funnel becomes the highest point in the system and the airtight seal causes the coolant in the funnel to push all the air out. You can hear it whistle out the bleed hole. BUY THIS FUNNEL!
93 240 fb Super HICAS - rebuild 99% done
75 280Z 2+2 - Needs injectors + ???
75 280Z 2+2 - Needs injectors + ???
-
- Dreams of owning a 240!
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Thu Dec 21, 2006 7:51 pm
- Location: Lafayette LA
Remove the thermo and see if you get it resolved. If so bad thermo. Still there, block in coolant passage hence something wrong with the motor as you got it.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
This means it could be blocked up. Double check the pump and make sure the fins are not corroded.
You have had nothing but issues with this motor. Between it running rich and this, I wonder about who you got it from and your compentency. Not trying to be a dick.
You have had nothing but issues with this motor. Between it running rich and this, I wonder about who you got it from and your compentency. Not trying to be a dick.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
That is what you have to find out. We are not there but remove the thermo and bleed her. If everything is good, then thermo. Just because it is brand new does not mean it could be DOA. Other possibility is that the water pump is not pushing but I doubt that since you said it is fine. When you remove the thermo, it will get you one step close to what is the real issue.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
- beercandrifter
- Belongs To The TOP CONTRIBUTING MEMBERS!
- Posts: 2271
- Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2006 7:57 am
- Location: Melbourne, FL
no it just means theres no air at that moment, after you let it run for a while it vibrates bubbles out of the radiator fins / heater core fins. my cxracing radiator is notorious for holding air bubbles and requires this.
I just stick a pressure nozzle to the water tank hose coming off of the radiator and push water back in (with the bleeder screw out) after the car has been at operating temps for a bit. usually the second time and its bled, some times it just takes longer. And im one of the few who dont run a heater core which is half of the trouble when it comes to bleeding
I just stick a pressure nozzle to the water tank hose coming off of the radiator and push water back in (with the bleeder screw out) after the car has been at operating temps for a bit. usually the second time and its bled, some times it just takes longer. And im one of the few who dont run a heater core which is half of the trouble when it comes to bleeding
91 240sx Hatch: HomeBrwd
25psi hx35/8.8:1/264^2 cams/95lb injectors/Megasquirt 2/ka24de build **RIP**
T56/4.8 LSx/LS9 Cam/60lb injectors/comp 918 springs/Megasquirt 3/all custom wiring
25psi hx35/8.8:1/264^2 cams/95lb injectors/Megasquirt 2/ka24de build **RIP**
T56/4.8 LSx/LS9 Cam/60lb injectors/comp 918 springs/Megasquirt 3/all custom wiring
I just can not figure this out, my temps didn't go much above 175 but that's at idle. I didn't try driving it because the idle started to fall to around 700. But when I do take the bleeder screw out the coolant just bubbles out in a bubbly squirt. Every time I squeeze a hose the air comes out and then just goes back in.
Edit: I guess the best thing is to just run it up to temps, let it cool down slightly, then take the cap off and squeeze the hoses, I found a lot of air in them. good news however, my thermostat came online and it hovered at 180. Bad news is I definitely missed my motoman break-in period.
Edit: I guess the best thing is to just run it up to temps, let it cool down slightly, then take the cap off and squeeze the hoses, I found a lot of air in them. good news however, my thermostat came online and it hovered at 180. Bad news is I definitely missed my motoman break-in period.
as I already suggested, buy the Lisle coolant funnel. Install the funnel, put the stopper in, fill with coolant. Open the bleeder screw, open the heater up to full heat, pull the stopper in the funnel. Air will be forced out by the coolant draining from the funnel. Replace the stopper and close the bleeder when coolant spurts from the bleed hole. Done.
93 240 fb Super HICAS - rebuild 99% done
75 280Z 2+2 - Needs injectors + ???
75 280Z 2+2 - Needs injectors + ???
LOL. I can sense the frustration.Hype wrote:as I already suggested, buy the Lisle coolant funnel. Install the funnel, put the stopper in, fill with coolant. Open the bleeder screw, open the heater up to full heat, pull the stopper in the funnel. Air will be forced out by the coolant draining from the funnel. Replace the stopper and close the bleeder when coolant spurts from the bleed hole. Done.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
ahahah yeah. IIRC it was you that recommended the funnel to me when I posted a thread last year! I bought a beat up vert for $400 with a blown hg and re-ringed it while I pulled everything for a 5 speed swap. Long story short I had bleed problems, overheated and ruined the fresh rings I put in, just like this guy is gonna lol. That was a beater but I'm hoping to start up my built motor in my hatch this weekend for the first time and I will have none of that!supakat wrote:LOL. I can sense the frustration.
93 240 fb Super HICAS - rebuild 99% done
75 280Z 2+2 - Needs injectors + ???
75 280Z 2+2 - Needs injectors + ???
I wouldn't freak out about it too much. Just try to get your issues sorted out and start the break in as soon as you can.L wrote:Bad news is I definitely missed my motoman break-in period.
Maybe I am just lucky, but I have only had an issue with bleeding my cooling system once out of the 10+ times I have had to do it. I just always jack the front of the car all the way up, add coolant, and then start the car with the rad cap off and replace it as it warms up. I have never even used the bleeder screw.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
Same here. When I started having issues, I got pissed and took out the thermo.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel
- nismoautoxr
- Encyclopedia-Nissan
- Posts: 1153
- Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2008 8:16 am
- Location: Leeds,Alabama
- Contact:
Well it never went above 215. I think I'm fine there.Hype wrote:ahahah yeah. IIRC it was you that recommended the funnel to me when I posted a thread last year! I bought a beat up vert for $400 with a blown hg and re-ringed it while I pulled everything for a 5 speed swap. Long story short I had bleed problems, overheated and ruined the fresh rings I put in, just like this guy is gonna lol. That was a beater but I'm hoping to start up my built motor in my hatch this weekend for the first time and I will have none of that!supakat wrote:LOL. I can sense the frustration.
L wrote:Well it never went above 215. I think I'm fine there.
gl with your new motor. Have you performed the MotoMan breakin yet? If you have a compressor (or know someone who does), do a leak down test after you do however many runs/miles you plan and let that be your guide.
If you're already done, I'm curious as to how you began. Did you idle the motor for a bit after startup to let temps come up, or did you pretty much go right for the hard breakin after making sure there were no leaks etc?
93 240 fb Super HICAS - rebuild 99% done
75 280Z 2+2 - Needs injectors + ???
75 280Z 2+2 - Needs injectors + ???