Odd issue. Super rich.
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Odd issue. Super rich.
Ok. Car has been fine the few times I have taken the car for a drive. Ran perfect at 12-17 psi. Idle,Cruise,Boost afr's were on point. ( Enthalpy ROM tune)
I go to take a pull today and car went way rich then shut off. Stranded on the side of the road, I tried starting car. It was turning over but no start. Finally it started after some time. Car was barely moving though, like barely even with the pedal floored. Wide band was pegged at 10.0, blowing serious black smoke.
Limped it home. Plugs were black, put them back in. Car turned on, pulled fuel pump fuse and it stayed running for what seemed like forever, then I turned the ignition off. AFR's were still at 10 while all this was going on . Put new plugs in fired it up, idled fine took it for a drive, shortly died and started having the same issue. Plugs and pistons were soaked.
Things I have done:
New NGK plugs gapped at .20
New NGK wires
New dizzy cap
New dizzy rotor
New injector O rings
New manifold injector o rings
Fuel Pressure is fine
Fuel pump is already re-wired
No boost leaks
No vacuum leaks
Injectors are not leaking
Injectors OHM within spec all OHM the same
Getting spark
Timing is right
Grounds are all good
Maf is good, also tried it unplugged and nothing
New walbro fuel pump
Thinking something is wrong with the ECU, again possibly the injector drivers? O man I will be pissed if this ecu fries my injectors!! Maybe the distributor gets hot and is malfunctioning, I remember someone had a similar issue. The spark seems more of a yellow color, for some reason I remember it being blue before, idk LOL maybe I am hallucinating from the fumes.
Anyone have any other suggestions?
I go to take a pull today and car went way rich then shut off. Stranded on the side of the road, I tried starting car. It was turning over but no start. Finally it started after some time. Car was barely moving though, like barely even with the pedal floored. Wide band was pegged at 10.0, blowing serious black smoke.
Limped it home. Plugs were black, put them back in. Car turned on, pulled fuel pump fuse and it stayed running for what seemed like forever, then I turned the ignition off. AFR's were still at 10 while all this was going on . Put new plugs in fired it up, idled fine took it for a drive, shortly died and started having the same issue. Plugs and pistons were soaked.
Things I have done:
New NGK plugs gapped at .20
New NGK wires
New dizzy cap
New dizzy rotor
New injector O rings
New manifold injector o rings
Fuel Pressure is fine
Fuel pump is already re-wired
No boost leaks
No vacuum leaks
Injectors are not leaking
Injectors OHM within spec all OHM the same
Getting spark
Timing is right
Grounds are all good
Maf is good, also tried it unplugged and nothing
New walbro fuel pump
Thinking something is wrong with the ECU, again possibly the injector drivers? O man I will be pissed if this ecu fries my injectors!! Maybe the distributor gets hot and is malfunctioning, I remember someone had a similar issue. The spark seems more of a yellow color, for some reason I remember it being blue before, idk LOL maybe I am hallucinating from the fumes.
Anyone have any other suggestions?
- emo_tactical9
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Make sure your fuel pump isn't priming with the fuse pulled.
Other than that, make sure your FPR isn't busted and sucking fuel in the vacuum line.
Other than that, make sure your FPR isn't busted and sucking fuel in the vacuum line.
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Not exactly sure how your setup is but you might want to regap at .32...or is it .34? But, you probably have them gapped for a specific reason.
Are you sure that you are not pinching the lower o-rings while reseating the injectors?
Are you sure that you are not pinching the lower o-rings while reseating the injectors?
You know, somebody actually complimented me on my driving today. They left a little note on the windshield, it said 'Parking Fine.'
Someone posted on here that if the light is not on the ecu, then there is an issue with the daughterboard. Make sure with the tq of the hx40, it did not lodge the daughterboard away from the header board. Sounds like this is what happened. Do you have your ecu dangling around?
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Gapped to help prevent blow out at higher boost levels. I am very meticulous/anal etc etc, so I made 100% sure everything is on correctly. Like I said car ran fine before.Kruked wrote:Not exactly sure how your setup is but you might want to regap at .32...or is it .34? But, you probably have them gapped for a specific reason.
Are you sure that you are not pinching the lower o-rings while reseating the injectors?
Also just to note TPS is good.
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Have not checked for the light. Light did not come on before when I had a problem with the board either. I have emailed Martin for some ideas, if nothing changes I will send it back out to him and have him check it.supakat wrote:Someone posted on here that if the light is not on the ecu, then there is an issue with the daughterboard. Make sure with the tq of the hx40, it did not lodge the daughterboard away from the header board. Sounds like this is what happened. Do you have your ecu dangling around?
I don't see how the daughterboard would move, its bolted down in the casing. I also have the ECU mounted.
Any other ideas? lol its driving me nuts..
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I am really thinking it is the distributor. Could be randomly working. Going to recheck tomorrow.
None of the fuel is getting ignited, therefore just flooding. The injectors are fine in every way and fuel pressure is good.
Another thing that is pointing me in that direction is my car will not turn on with my stock ecu . Whereas before it would start,idle,drive with stock ecu.
None of the fuel is getting ignited, therefore just flooding. The injectors are fine in every way and fuel pressure is good.
Another thing that is pointing me in that direction is my car will not turn on with my stock ecu . Whereas before it would start,idle,drive with stock ecu.
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You have a multimeter? Id check MAF voltage at idle and with key on/ign off.
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I had a similar problem, unplugged the fuel pump fuse and the car would remain running for way longer then it should. Turned out to be a combination of FPR going bad and mass airflow sensor wiring shorting out.
Recently when I blew apart my mass airflow sensor I couldn't even get the thing to idle right, you'd think no maf would be similar to unplugging it... but the car just flooded itself till it died.
Point is, might be a good idea to check the maf over, including your wiring, look for any shorts or damage etc...
Recently when I blew apart my mass airflow sensor I couldn't even get the thing to idle right, you'd think no maf would be similar to unplugging it... but the car just flooded itself till it died.
Point is, might be a good idea to check the maf over, including your wiring, look for any shorts or damage etc...
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Going to test the FPR with a known working one today. Although I just ran a line from the FPR to a gas can and a good amount of fuel was coming out as it should.
Car should turn on with MAF unplugged. It does not. Wiring is good checked it today, everything was soldered, shrink wrapped twice, then gone over with electrical tape.
Car does not even want to start. Just keeps cranking and cranking. Soaked another set of new plugs.
Re-checked timing = Good
Injectors are not leaking. Tested multiple times.
TPS is good
CTS is good
Getting spark on all cylinders although it seems weak to me.
Car should turn on with MAF unplugged. It does not. Wiring is good checked it today, everything was soldered, shrink wrapped twice, then gone over with electrical tape.
Car does not even want to start. Just keeps cranking and cranking. Soaked another set of new plugs.
Re-checked timing = Good
Injectors are not leaking. Tested multiple times.
TPS is good
CTS is good
Getting spark on all cylinders although it seems weak to me.
If you suspect weak spark, then change to another coil. Make sure your idler puller bolt is not stripped. We have been getting this a lot lately.
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Ya I sort of checked the idler bolt, just took the dizzy cap off and wiggled the rotor and it didnt budge....I suppose I will check the actual bolt later.
I would need to replace the whole distributor as this is a s14 and does not have a external coil. I would think even with weak spark it would still ignite.
I would need to replace the whole distributor as this is a s14 and does not have a external coil. I would think even with weak spark it would still ignite.
I wonder if the dizzy is at fault. The pickup module is not reading the trigger wheel correctly. But then again, if it is firing, you should get some time of ignition. Have your tried starting fluid to see if it sparks/turns on for a little?
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Idler sprocket is fine.
I am almost certain it is weak spark. From what I have read I was not hallucinating, spark should be a blueish white and very noticeable. Before the car was even boosted it was a bright blue spark. Not sure if type of plugs would change the color. But now the spark is a very faint yellow color, seems like it is barely sparking.
I am going to pick up another distributor that is known to be in working condition, hopefully that fixes my issue.
Still waiting to hear back from Martin also...
Appreciate the ideas, guys. My head is literally going and going on what it could be.
I am almost certain it is weak spark. From what I have read I was not hallucinating, spark should be a blueish white and very noticeable. Before the car was even boosted it was a bright blue spark. Not sure if type of plugs would change the color. But now the spark is a very faint yellow color, seems like it is barely sparking.
I am going to pick up another distributor that is known to be in working condition, hopefully that fixes my issue.
Still waiting to hear back from Martin also...
Appreciate the ideas, guys. My head is literally going and going on what it could be.
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I think your on the right track but Ill say this .....you would be one of the few I have seen with a weak stock coil. my original s14 coil was still going strong at 250k but a yellowish spark is not normal.and that would make the AFR super rich as you say.
Ill leave you with one other thought. It might benefit you to go back to basics and check the supply voltage to the ignition coil as well as grounds for high resistance if your known good dizzy doesnt resolve the situation which it probably will. G/L
Ill leave you with one other thought. It might benefit you to go back to basics and check the supply voltage to the ignition coil as well as grounds for high resistance if your known good dizzy doesnt resolve the situation which it probably will. G/L
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95 SE ,LS1 N/A and T56, 230/232 @.050 cam, MS3 with MS3X,GC coilovers,17x8.5 Enkei RPF1 on 255 40 17 RS3 Hankooks, 377HP/351TQ , megasquirt3 fully sequential
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On my very first s14, the distributor went bad at 110k. Drove me nuts trying to figure it out.nismoautoxr wrote:I think your on the right track but Ill say this .....you would be one of the few I have seen with a weak stock coil. my original s14 coil was still going strong at 250k but a yellowish spark is not normal.and that would make the AFR super rich as you say.
Ill leave you with one other thought. It might benefit you to go back to basics and check the supply voltage to the ignition coil as well as grounds for high resistance if your known good dizzy doesnt resolve the situation which it probably will. G/L
I have been reading in the FSM on how to go about testing everything related to the distributor. Going to try and find time this weekend to test a few things. Replacement distributor should be here Tuesday.
Not sure if it could be a problem. But my compressor housing sits about a penny's width away from my distributor cap. Maybe the heat has something to do with the dizzy failing, just an idea. Either way the new one will be receiving heat tape just for caution.
Just curious, does anyone know what the long post inside of the s14 distributor is for? Has a what looks to be a copper tip on the post, and inside the cap it has a spring IIRC.Because that is the area that is closest to the compressor housing.
Thanks guys.
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Car is running again. For now that is.
Went through hell just to get a distributor. First guy sent me a rusted one, second guy didnt send me anything, at least they were cool and gave refunds. Third guy sent me a distributor got it today and put it on.
Day went as follows.
Put new dizzy in with my cars old distributor cap. Seeing as the car ran fine with it, figured just my dizzy went out. Car started first try and I drove it about ten miles (would break up on pulls) and parked it in the driveway. Went to start later no go. I was contemplating scratching the KA at this point. But I decided to try a few other things. Tossed on my new dizzy cap,new rotor, and yet another set of fresh plugs. Drove it around, parked it, same issue no start. All I could really do at this point was laugh at all the chaos.
Tested the dizzy with my multi meter. WTF its ohming the same as my other dizzy I thought was bad ( according to FSM it is). So I put on the distributor cap the new dizzy came with, guy said he took it off a running car no problems. Well what do you know cap is on, car is back to blow tires off rims.
So apparently, the "NEW" cap from Advance Auto Parts was crap out of the box. How something so simple and new could be bad is beyond me. Also my multimeter and original cap are also crap. I also may have a spare distributor LOL.
So I went through all this for a distributor cap. Hopefully this solves my problem. I will post a update in a few days. My only concern is how close the compressor housing is to the distributor cap. We are talking about a pennys width. I will be applying some heat tape in that spot to help reduce some heat.
Went through hell just to get a distributor. First guy sent me a rusted one, second guy didnt send me anything, at least they were cool and gave refunds. Third guy sent me a distributor got it today and put it on.
Day went as follows.
Put new dizzy in with my cars old distributor cap. Seeing as the car ran fine with it, figured just my dizzy went out. Car started first try and I drove it about ten miles (would break up on pulls) and parked it in the driveway. Went to start later no go. I was contemplating scratching the KA at this point. But I decided to try a few other things. Tossed on my new dizzy cap,new rotor, and yet another set of fresh plugs. Drove it around, parked it, same issue no start. All I could really do at this point was laugh at all the chaos.
Tested the dizzy with my multi meter. WTF its ohming the same as my other dizzy I thought was bad ( according to FSM it is). So I put on the distributor cap the new dizzy came with, guy said he took it off a running car no problems. Well what do you know cap is on, car is back to blow tires off rims.
So apparently, the "NEW" cap from Advance Auto Parts was crap out of the box. How something so simple and new could be bad is beyond me. Also my multimeter and original cap are also crap. I also may have a spare distributor LOL.
So I went through all this for a distributor cap. Hopefully this solves my problem. I will post a update in a few days. My only concern is how close the compressor housing is to the distributor cap. We are talking about a pennys width. I will be applying some heat tape in that spot to help reduce some heat.
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Gotcha. I have extra dizzies for a 13 but too late and they wouldn't have done you any good anyways. Good to know that the problem is solved for the time being. I know it was frustrating. You now know how I was feeling when I was running rich for months and it all boiled down to the thermostat ordeal being the culprit.
You know, somebody actually complimented me on my driving today. They left a little note on the windshield, it said 'Parking Fine.'