Turbos getting too hot?
Turbos getting too hot?
Recently sent my turbo to Turbos Direct in TX. They had their techs open the turbo up to inspect it. The guy calls me and tells me the turbos getting too hot and he said to get it better cooled or it wont last another 1500 miles.
I daily the car but not far and rarely push the car.
Here's my routine:
Start up
Warm it up til operating temp (via oe water temp gauge)
Wait til oil press drops to <60psi
Shut down
Drive out of boost for a few mins
Turbo time for minimal 1-2mins Hard drives 2-4mins
Setup:
93 s13 ka
Garrett T3 GT35R Top mounted
Water cooled (lines running from throttle body)
Oil:
Skulls and bones Oil block -->
-3an ssline -->
Earls -4an inline oil filter -->
Turbo -->
-10an drain
Ebay -8an oil cooler (not sure the size)
Trust GREX oil filter relocation block w/ thermostat
-8 oil lines
Koyo radiator
Stock clutch fan w/ shroud
Down pipe wrapped
Turbo blanket
Soon to install a nismo thermostat - water and oil temp gauges.
Any tips or recommendations would be greatly appreciated
I daily the car but not far and rarely push the car.
Here's my routine:
Start up
Warm it up til operating temp (via oe water temp gauge)
Wait til oil press drops to <60psi
Shut down
Drive out of boost for a few mins
Turbo time for minimal 1-2mins Hard drives 2-4mins
Setup:
93 s13 ka
Garrett T3 GT35R Top mounted
Water cooled (lines running from throttle body)
Oil:
Skulls and bones Oil block -->
-3an ssline -->
Earls -4an inline oil filter -->
Turbo -->
-10an drain
Ebay -8an oil cooler (not sure the size)
Trust GREX oil filter relocation block w/ thermostat
-8 oil lines
Koyo radiator
Stock clutch fan w/ shroud
Down pipe wrapped
Turbo blanket
Soon to install a nismo thermostat - water and oil temp gauges.
Any tips or recommendations would be greatly appreciated
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- schmauster920
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I dont let my car warm up, i just drive it. Almost UPS style
I dont boost into my parking spot, or neighborhood, so i generally just let it idle for 5 seconds or so before shutting down. My old turbonetics hasnt seemed to age a day since i got it 5 years ago. I am pretty hard on it @ 10psi
Point being: Seems like you have something else going on. Taking the turbo blanket off will help (i would do it ASAP) but i cant see it being the only problem.
I dont boost into my parking spot, or neighborhood, so i generally just let it idle for 5 seconds or so before shutting down. My old turbonetics hasnt seemed to age a day since i got it 5 years ago. I am pretty hard on it @ 10psi
Point being: Seems like you have something else going on. Taking the turbo blanket off will help (i would do it ASAP) but i cant see it being the only problem.
D21, Built KA24DE, 740cc, T4, WeatherGuard Tool Box, Tial 40mm, Megasquirt 3 in progress
- emo_tactical9
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I used larger coolant fittings and used my heater core lines for my turbo.
Just call me Adam.
95 240: DIYPNP and T28.
08 Honda Fit
84 200sx: Sold after almost 10 years.
My file hosting:Calum,MegaSquirt,FSM
95 240: DIYPNP and T28.
08 Honda Fit
84 200sx: Sold after almost 10 years.
My file hosting:Calum,MegaSquirt,FSM
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You do realize oil temps are about identical to water temps in most situations?
Watercooling only has an effect when the car is shut off. It helps prevent the oil coking ( getting crusty) in the housing, which helps preserve bearing life. Search it
Directly from Garret:
"Water cooling’s main benefit actually occurs after the engine has been shut down. Heat stored in the turbine housing and exhaust manifold “soaks back” into the center section of the turbocharger after shutdown. If water is not plumbed correctly, this intense heat can potentially destroy the bearing system and the oil-sealing piston ring behind the turbine wheel"
Also if you have your water lines not routed correctly it could cause damage.
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... ooling.pdf
In addition, it is my understanding leaner would be cooler, and rich condition would create more heat.
I would focus on the turbo getting as much oil as you can, obviously without smoking ( pushing oil past seals). If anything upgrade to a larger drain and give it more oil.
Watercooling only has an effect when the car is shut off. It helps prevent the oil coking ( getting crusty) in the housing, which helps preserve bearing life. Search it
Directly from Garret:
"Water cooling’s main benefit actually occurs after the engine has been shut down. Heat stored in the turbine housing and exhaust manifold “soaks back” into the center section of the turbocharger after shutdown. If water is not plumbed correctly, this intense heat can potentially destroy the bearing system and the oil-sealing piston ring behind the turbine wheel"
Also if you have your water lines not routed correctly it could cause damage.
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobyga ... ooling.pdf
In addition, it is my understanding leaner would be cooler, and rich condition would create more heat.
I would focus on the turbo getting as much oil as you can, obviously without smoking ( pushing oil past seals). If anything upgrade to a larger drain and give it more oil.
- shift_down
- SuperMod
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Good info on the PDF, thanks.
Come at me bro
Fast
Reliable
Cheap;
You can only pick two, so choose wisely!
My build thread: viewtopic.php?t=57539
Fast
Reliable
Cheap;
You can only pick two, so choose wisely!
My build thread: viewtopic.php?t=57539
I originally tapped into the throttle body cooling lines but found my little t28 would boil the **** out of the coolant when I shut it down, obviously not being cooled well.
If you take the block drain plug out and run an NPT tap you have a good source of coolant for the turbo. That spot has the highest pressure in the cooling system, it is right after the water pump. A few PSI above your rad cap pressure. It will take either 1/4" or 3/8" NPT to convert so you can use a hose barb. Plumb the return (keeping it turbo height or higher) anywhere pre-radiator.
Other than that your only option is the heater core lines and they don't give nearly as much flow unless you use big ass tubing.
That Garrett PDF was a great read!
If you take the block drain plug out and run an NPT tap you have a good source of coolant for the turbo. That spot has the highest pressure in the cooling system, it is right after the water pump. A few PSI above your rad cap pressure. It will take either 1/4" or 3/8" NPT to convert so you can use a hose barb. Plumb the return (keeping it turbo height or higher) anywhere pre-radiator.
Other than that your only option is the heater core lines and they don't give nearly as much flow unless you use big ass tubing.
That Garrett PDF was a great read!
Current Experiment: Project Twin-Charge 2022
- proconcept23
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Theres not much to write about. The exhaust side of the block has a coolant drain plug. It is already tapped and you can use a BSPT threaded fitting straight on it or you can tap it with NPT if you want to use fittings from the hardware store. If you dont have a tap already it is just cheaper to buy the BSPT fitting online.ze12o wrote:Good info. Thanks!
p00t Do you have a write up? I'm not sure where to tap.
I guess i have to redo the whole water line set up.
Which side is the water coming in from on the TB? PASS side or Driver side ?
I am not sure for the TB, the FSM has that diagram in the cooling section.
Current Experiment: Project Twin-Charge 2022