pilot bushing removal ?
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pilot bushing removal ?
Does anyone have any tips on how to pull the pilot bushing out a mt s13? Im trying to put this baby in
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If it is a manual transmission engine, then the bushing is brass and can actually be broken up with a small chisel/flathead and a screwdriver. If it's a larger steel ring that's for an automatic, you'll need to rent a blind hole puller from Advance Auto/Autozone.
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Ok ill try chizzling it. Thanks bud.
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Im going to rent both those tools from AutoZone and if they don't work, chisel it is.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
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- schmauster920
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Ive had good luck with an air hammer and a chisel attachment as a last resort.. its not as brutal as it sounds lol
I have tried threading it and putting a bolt through to push the bushing out.. i think the bushing was too soft. I sure thought i was cool for a little bit though. lol
I have tried threading it and putting a bolt through to push the bushing out.. i think the bushing was too soft. I sure thought i was cool for a little bit though. lol
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Use bread to remove it. I am just going to rent the tool from Autozone when I do mine.
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- beercandrifter
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supakat wrote:Use bread to remove it. I am just going to rent the tool from Autozone when I do mine.
i used bread as well on mine with a #10 short socket to compress the bread in there. keeps it squeeky clean and doesnt damage the pilot bearing (cant say the same for my 6" extension). just a takes a bit of time to get out.
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I got a puller but before I did grease and newspaper with an approriate sized drift or bolt and pack it in there with hammer . Ive removed some very stubborn bearings that way .
Ricky Ragan,
95 SE ,LS1 N/A and T56, 230/232 @.050 cam, MS3 with MS3X,GC coilovers,17x8.5 Enkei RPF1 on 255 40 17 RS3 Hankooks, 377HP/351TQ , megasquirt3 fully sequential
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I've never had an issue with one or two good whacks with a flathead screwdriver and a hammer - as long as you don't scar the inside surface of the crankshaft where it goes.
I've actually broken one into a hundred pieces before while trying to get it into place, lol
Grease works well too, haven't tried bread - but definitely the blind hole puller will take no time, it's just a big deposit up front.
I've actually broken one into a hundred pieces before while trying to get it into place, lol
Grease works well too, haven't tried bread - but definitely the blind hole puller will take no time, it's just a big deposit up front.
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- sdaigle240
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wtf is with these things, i bought two and when installed the ID crushes and becomes too small for the trans shaft. i had to hit it with a lil sander flapper wheel.
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courtesy sells a nismo unit, says its a roller bearing, anybody tried? def more expensive but seems more sturdy maybe?
http://www.courtesyparts.com/nissan-mot ... =3690_5764&
also yeah sometimes i've had the bearing ID go out of spec as am pushing it in causing the trans shaft not to go in, i usually just file it till it fits. i've had luck pushing it in with the clutch alignment tool, just give it a couple of taps and it goes in with no distortion as the tool fits in with the bearing.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/nissan-mot ... =3690_5764&
also yeah sometimes i've had the bearing ID go out of spec as am pushing it in causing the trans shaft not to go in, i usually just file it till it fits. i've had luck pushing it in with the clutch alignment tool, just give it a couple of taps and it goes in with no distortion as the tool fits in with the bearing.
DO NOT USE the nismo roller bearing. It requires a lot of maintenance. Only race prepped cars that have their trans regularly taken off should run it. It requires it to be greased or it will rust and cease up then eat away at your trans shaft. It also gives no significant gains over a brass pilot.
I removed the roller bearing with a flathead and a hammer. Broke it right up.
I removed the roller bearing with a flathead and a hammer. Broke it right up.
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Ok so to update on this thread... The blind hole puller got the pilot bearing out in litterally 5 seconds. So for those of you who have had trouble with this, there is your answer.
Now my next question is, when I put the new bearing in, should I coat it with lithium grease before I put it in, or should I use motor oil to lubricate it, or should I not lubricate it? I've read of people doing all three of these options, and I don't want to mess anything up.
Now my next question is, when I put the new bearing in, should I coat it with lithium grease before I put it in, or should I use motor oil to lubricate it, or should I not lubricate it? I've read of people doing all three of these options, and I don't want to mess anything up.
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don't put anything in there as that can get out and possibly get into your input shaft and clutch. i believe the brass bearing is self lubed and will go easy in there, i would sugest using the clutch alignment tool to push it in as that wont deform it like using a socket or something like that.
and thanks for the tip on the nismo roller bearing, never really though of it that way, i was always interested but never bit the bullet cause the clutch always came with the bearing so i wouldn't have to order 1, and also its cheaper to get the brass 1.
and thanks for the tip on the nismo roller bearing, never really though of it that way, i was always interested but never bit the bullet cause the clutch always came with the bearing so i wouldn't have to order 1, and also its cheaper to get the brass 1.
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put it in dry . Bronze is self lubricating and greasing it can have reprocussions in some cases such as developing a "hydraulic" suction on teh input shaft and attracting dirt and grit which will accelerate wear .
Ricky Ragan,
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Alright, dry it is. Thanks guys.
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Haha I was so close to busting one of those out. I'm talking about a joke, not.... Oh you know what I mean.
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I got the pilot in, but now the alignment tool will not fit into the bearing so I can put the clutch on. Is this normal? Did the pilot bushing get compressed? It fit on the alignment tool perfect before I put it in the crank hole.
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sounds like you may have at same issue daigle said he experienced, taje a good look and make sure bushing is in straight and not angked. if so you might have to hit it with a sanding bit to take it down a few microns.
the tool should fit with minimal effort.. thats what....
oh nvm
the tool should fit with minimal effort.. thats what....
oh nvm
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I've had this problem with every single pilot bushing I've ever installed. I had to sand down the inside of the bearing a tiny bit. Make sure that alignment tool fits before you do the actual transmission.
Nothing is worse than being underneath 150lb tranny while you try to force the shaft into the hole.
Nothing is worse than being underneath 150lb tranny while you try to force the shaft into the hole.
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Lol, been there done that. Ok time to get this hole to expand.
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For the archives, you don't have to break the pushing to get it out. Whatever tools you use for that method can score up the contact service and make it hard to install the new one. You can simply pack the whole with bearing grease, then use a clutch alignment tool or other metal piece that fits tight in there, then tap it with a hammer. This pushes out the pilot from the inside.
Just explained in detail for the next guy that pulls this thread.
Just explained in detail for the next guy that pulls this thread.
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Removing old pilot bearing:
1) Blind hole puller + slide hammer = 5 sec, no hassle
- This tool is awesome
Installing new pilot bearing:
1) Make sure it fits on input shaft. Sometimes they are too small out of the box.
2) Lightly grease it and tap it in with a rubber mallet and a socket
1) Blind hole puller + slide hammer = 5 sec, no hassle
- This tool is awesome
Installing new pilot bearing:
1) Make sure it fits on input shaft. Sometimes they are too small out of the box.
2) Lightly grease it and tap it in with a rubber mallet and a socket
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