Noobs ka24det walkthrough

Basic tech questions such as future setups, different turbo kits, car diagnosis, etc
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shift_down
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Noobs ka24det walkthrough

Post by shift_down » Tue Sep 04, 2012 2:49 pm

Minimal set up (~180hp)
Parts you will NEED:
Internally wastegated turbo, t25 or t28
Bov
Turbo manifold
Small Intercooler with piping
Downpipe
Oil pan bung
Tee fitting
Oil feed and oil drain line.
Safc 2 (this controls fuel)

Procedure:
1. Retard timing at the distributor (how-to link at the bottom)
2. Replace your exhaust manifold with your turbo manifold
3. Bolt your turbo onto your turbo manifold
4. Bolt your downpipe onto the exhaust portion of the turbo
5. Attach a filter at the end of your maf sensor, and attach the sensor onto the inlet of the turbo. Make sure the maf sensor is atleast 12inches away from the turbo inlet.
6. Mount your intercooler, and attach the piping from the turbo to the inter cooler and then to the intake manifold. You have to install your bov anywhere along the intercooler piping. Attach the vacuum hose from the bov to a vac source (diagram at the bottom).
7. Tee off your stock oil pressure sender and attach your oil feed line to the tee, and the other end to the turbo feed port.
8. Weld a bung onto your oil pan, and attach the oil drain line from your turbo oil drain port to the bung on your oil pan.
9. Start the car.



Average Build(~300-350hp)
Parts you will NEED:
Externally wastegated turbo
Wastegate
Bov
Turbo manifold
Intercooler with piping
Wideband O2 sensor
550cc or larger fuel injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump or larger
Clutch kit to hold around 350 hp
Z32 MAF
3 inch full exhaust
NGK BKR7E Spark Plugs gapped at around .031
3 inch Downpipe
Oil pan bung
Oil feed and oil drain line
Something to tune with, You can EITHER use a rom tune by enthalpy or JWT, OR use a stand alone engine management system like nistune, megasquirt, aem ems2, etc…

Procedure:
1. Replace your exhaust manifold with your turbo manifold
2. Attach your wastegate to the turbo manifold, attach the vacuum hose to the vac port on the wastegate and the other end of the hose to a vac point on the intake manifold
3. Bolt your turbo onto your turbo manifold
4. Bolt your downpipe onto the exhaust portion of the turbo
5. Attach a filter at the end of your Z32 maf sensor, and attach the sensor onto the inlet of the turbo. Make sure the maf sensor is atleast 12inches away from the turbo inlet.
6. Mount your intercooler, and attach the piping from the turbo to the inter cooler and then to the intake manifold. You have to install your bov anywhere along the intercooler piping.
7. Tee off your stock oil pressure sender and attach your oil feed line to the tee, and the other end to the turbo feed port.
8. Weld a bung onto your oil pan, and attach the oil drain line from your turbo oil drain port to the bung on your oil pan.
9. Install your wideband sensor and gauge
10. Install Fuel pump
11. Install Spark plugs
12. Install fuel injectors
13. Install clutch kit
14. If you have a tuned ecu from enthalpy or JWT, install it. Otherwise, you will need to tune your car.
15. Start your car
You might also want to consider having an oil pressure gauge and boost gauge installed as well.
---------------------------------------------------------
If you are looking to get more out of your car, you will have to build your bottom end to be able to handle the beating. Bottom end includes: Pistons, Piston Rings, Rods, Bearings, Head Gasket, Head Studs.

Trusted Parts Include:
Wastegates:
Most people stick with Precision or Tial
Blow off valves:
Tial, 1G DSM, Greddy, HKS, Precision, Turbonetics
Turbo:
Garrett, Borg Warner, Holset, Precision, Greddy, Turbonetics
Turbo Manifold:
Ebay Log manifolds work great for up to 350hp
RaceLab, AMS
Oil line kit:
JGS Oil lines
Intercoolers:
Ebay intercoolers work fine.
Injectors:
Deatschwerks injectors
Subaru Sti 550cc injectors
Sr20 370cc injectors
Fuel pump:
Walbro
Bosch

.

Helpful diagrams:
Basic Turbo Setup:
Image

-


Ka24de Vacuum Lines:
Image
-
Helpful Links:
Oil pan removal:
wtopic.php?t=11060&highlight=s13+oil+pan+removal

Fuel pump install
viewtopic.php?t=10417

How to build your block
viewtopic.php?t=4156

How to set ignition timing at the distributor
http://www.ka-t.org/dohc_basetiming.php

How to remove tranny/change clutch
http://forums.nicoclub.com/240sx-clutch ... 68578.html
-
My Advice:
When starting a turbo project, just remember that the results will always have a direct correlation with the amount of work and money you put in. Expect to have at least 2000$ set aside for this project, if not more. You will have many hiccups, and there will be many frustrating road blocks, but don’t give up on the build.
The KEY to a reliable car, is the TUNE! I cannot stress this enough. People always ask, “do I have to tune the car, or can I just get an safc?” Believe me, the safc route is not going to allow your motor to be reliable. A rom tune only costs about 300$, so don’t blow your motor up over the 150$ extra that you could’ve dished out for a great tune.

You need QUALITY parts for your build to be reliable. The three key parts that you need to be most reliable are your wastegate, turbo, and blow off valve.
Have fun.

*Feel free to give your input.
Last edited by shift_down on Thu Sep 06, 2012 12:40 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by street_240sx » Tue Sep 04, 2012 2:54 pm

roflmao this is awesome!!!! i didnt get a chance to read much of it but im sure its going to help alot of the noob questions
03 evo8 gsr: stroker 2.3 ;)

04 evo8 gsr: totalled

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started 3/15/08, running 1/18/09, finally turbo 2/9/14 lmfao

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Post by shift_down » Tue Sep 04, 2012 2:57 pm

thanks! i got tired of seeing the same questions every day.
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Re: Noobs ka24det walkthrough

Post by Kruked » Tue Sep 04, 2012 10:38 pm

shift_down wrote: Image

We have a problem here... This engine isn't facing the correct way. It's a sidewinder. :lol:
You know, somebody actually complimented me on my driving today. They left a little note on the windshield, it said 'Parking Fine.'
Image

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Post by shift_down » Tue Sep 04, 2012 10:47 pm

Smic makes it look that way :P
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Post by Walperstyle » Wed Sep 05, 2012 12:18 am

lol what engine is that exactly?

by the way this information was available at one point on this forum, I'm surprised you didn't see it.

should add this to the old thread instead of creating a new one


btw everyone needs to read this
My Advice:
When starting a turbo project, just remember that the results will always have a direct correlation with the amount of work and money you put in. Expect to have at least 2000$ set aside for this project, if not more. You will have many hiccups, and there will be many frustrating road blocks, but don’t give up on the build.
The KEY to a reliable car, is the TUNE! I cannot stress this enough. People always ask, “do I have to tune the car, or can I just get an safc?” Believe me, the safc route is not going to allow your motor to be reliable. A rom tune only costs about 300$, so don’t blow your motor up over the 150$ extra that you could’ve dished out for a great tune.
Image

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Post by shift_down » Wed Sep 05, 2012 8:18 am

Not sure what motor that is. I found it a long time ago when I was learning about turbochargers.
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Post by supakat » Wed Sep 05, 2012 8:23 am

It is a B series.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
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Post by project-c2 » Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:43 am

Yeah, thta is the Edelbrock turbo kit for a Honda B series. Great info though.

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Post by 240sxfan6882 » Thu Sep 06, 2012 8:15 am

*Bows to you*

Man this is AWESOME! Good job! Ill link any n00b to it from now on!

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Post by nismoautoxr » Thu Sep 06, 2012 9:44 am

I think that could be sticky material right there.
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Post by sdaigle240 » Thu Sep 06, 2012 10:42 am

stick this.
the old turbo for dummies is getting atad dated, this is all that plus a bunch of good info.
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Post by supakat » Thu Sep 06, 2012 1:50 pm

Stickied. If you need to add more info, let me know and I can add after the first post so information is at the beginning.
12.96 @ 116.36 - 2.1 60ft - 11/2011
13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
KA24DE-T
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Build thread/Blog
YouTube Channel

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Post by sdaigle240 » Fri Sep 07, 2012 11:27 am

nice! this is a very good post! although its top level, this would have been awesome to stumble across when i was starting. the step by steps are comforting for someone who has not one ***** clue like we all did when we started with cars.

this is a real silly comment but i think T'ing off the sender for oil is pretty weak sauce, they often crack years later. an oil sandwich is another option thats under $40. and finally the best option is to drill n tap the dummy plug on the stock oil neck and buy a $10 fitting. this gives you filtered oil to your turbo too.

not knockin! just adding some other optional routs
airman wrote:I'm all about spreadsheets. Bitches love spreadsheets.
schmauster920 wrote:I shall cast my own pistons in the sands of time, then forge them in the depths of hell.. as funds allow
Image
hy35 18psi Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=38784
RIP MJL best friend of 20 years and the man who showed me 240s

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Post by shift_down » Fri Sep 07, 2012 11:48 am

sdaigle240 wrote: this is a real silly comment but i think T'ing off the sender for oil is pretty weak sauce, they often crack years later. an oil sandwich is another option thats under $40. and finally the best option is to drill n tap the dummy plug on the stock oil neck and buy a $10 fitting. this gives you filtered oil to your turbo too.

not knockin! just adding some other optional routs
I personally prefer the sandwich plate also, that's the way I went with my build.
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Post by schmauster920 » Sun Sep 09, 2012 2:09 pm

I remember having a really hard time finding that motor build thread via search for some reason


This is nice to have stickied, i agree the turbo for dummies thread was a bit dated and confusing.. thanks!


I drilled and tapped my oil filter block for extra ports. A sandwich plate is good if you want to run a cooler etc. But otherwise its just another part that can leak.
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Post by Qemyst » Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:51 pm

So for the 300rwhp range it's not recommended to rebuild bottom end with forged pistons/rods?

The other KA24DE-T for dummies thread mentions that at 300+ you want to consider upgrading to forged pistons at least, as they're the weakest link in the KA24DE.

The reason I ask is because A) I'm a noob and B) I'm pricing out parts to turbo my KA with a 300rwhp goal.

I'm looking for reliability here, so if it's highly recommended to add forged pistons/rods to maintain reliability, I'd definitely be leaning in that direction.

I plan on going with a JWT ecu.

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Post by Kruked » Sat Oct 13, 2012 5:56 pm

Qemyst wrote:So for the 300rwhp range it's not recommended to rebuild bottom end with forged pistons/rods?

The other KA24DE-T for dummies thread mentions that at 300+ you want to consider upgrading to forged pistons at least, as they're the weakest link in the KA24DE.

The reason I ask is because A) I'm a noob and B) I'm pricing out parts to turbo my KA with a 300rwhp goal.

I'm looking for reliability here, so if it's highly recommended to add forged pistons/rods to maintain reliability, I'd definitely be leaning in that direction.

I plan on going with a JWT ecu.
Do it right the first time or pay more for it later on. Point, blank, period.
You know, somebody actually complimented me on my driving today. They left a little note on the windshield, it said 'Parking Fine.'
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Post by Qemyst » Sat Oct 13, 2012 6:00 pm

Kruked wrote: Do it right the first time or pay more for it later on. Point, blank, period.
Yes. That's the plan. Hence the focus on reliability and doing it right the first time.

My question stands. Is it unnecessary to upgrade to forged pistons/rods for 300hp with a JWT tuned ecu and will it be reliable?

If it will NOT be reliable, i'll gladly add forged pistons/rods and any other necessary supporting mods because i'm not messing around, lol. I'm adding a turbo and I don't do anything half assed.

EDIT: The only reason I ask is because the "things you will NEED" part of the ~300-350hp section doesn't mention building up the bottom end.

Below that section, as though separated, says if you want to take it any FURTHER (ie. going above 350hp), you will need to rebuild the bottom end. I ask because I could be reading it wrong, and the mention of rebuilding the bottom end IS intended for the ~300-350hp range and it's just formatted in a way that I misinterpreted.

I mean, there's doing it right the first time, but how right is TOO right for my 300hp goals?

Forged Pistons/rods are a good 800 bucks more on top of an already pricey project.
If 300hp w/ a JWT tuned ecu is going to be reliable, then I'd rather not dump an extra 800 bucks into the pistons/rods and then even more into having the cylinders honed.

If forged pistons/rods ARE necessary to make 300hp reliable, then so be it. I'll spend it.

It's like.. If I need to load something onto a truck, and wooden planks will be perfectly strong to use as an incline plane and no problems should arise from using them, I should use them.
Then one could argue that I should use steel beams for added strength, weld more supports to the bottom of the beams for EVEN MORE strength, etc.

Neither way is WRONG, but one is complete overkill.

Get my drift?

:)

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Post by theguywithaplan » Sat Mar 02, 2013 12:52 am

Qemyst wrote:
Kruked wrote: Do it right the first time or pay more for it later on. Point, blank, period.
Yes. That's the plan. Hence the focus on reliability and doing it right the first time.

My question stands. Is it unnecessary to upgrade to forged pistons/rods for 300hp with a JWT tuned ecu and will it be reliable?

If it will NOT be reliable, i'll gladly add forged pistons/rods and any other necessary supporting mods because i'm not messing around, lol. I'm adding a turbo and I don't do anything half assed.

EDIT: The only reason I ask is because the "things you will NEED" part of the ~300-350hp section doesn't mention building up the bottom end.

Below that section, as though separated, says if you want to take it any FURTHER (ie. going above 350hp), you will need to rebuild the bottom end. I ask because I could be reading it wrong, and the mention of rebuilding the bottom end IS intended for the ~300-350hp range and it's just formatted in a way that I misinterpreted.

I mean, there's doing it right the first time, but how right is TOO right for my 300hp goals?

Forged Pistons/rods are a good 800 bucks more on top of an already pricey project.
If 300hp w/ a JWT tuned ecu is going to be reliable, then I'd rather not dump an extra 800 bucks into the pistons/rods and then even more into having the cylinders honed.

If forged pistons/rods ARE necessary to make 300hp reliable, then so be it. I'll spend it.

It's like.. If I need to load something onto a truck, and wooden planks will be perfectly strong to use as an incline plane and no problems should arise from using them, I should use them.
Then one could argue that I should use steel beams for added strength, weld more supports to the bottom of the beams for EVEN MORE strength, etc.

Neither way is WRONG, but one is complete overkill.

Get my drift?

:)
Did you ever figure out the answer? Our goals are pretty much exactly the same. I'm shooting for 300 whp on 91 octane pump gas

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Re: Noobs ka24det walkthrough

Post by dls2200 » Fri Aug 02, 2013 2:37 pm

cool write up
"OVERNIGHT SHIPPING FROM JAPAN CAN BE EXPENSIVE"
Stock KA24DE 230k
Rebuilt head
Felpro oem headgasket
Arp headstuds
STI 550cc yellow top
t04e .48 50tirm
10lbs
255 pump
tial wastegate
hks bov
Empathy rom tune
Stock clutch

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Re: Noobs ka24det walkthrough

Post by Rb26kouki » Wed Oct 09, 2013 11:30 am

Nice write up should be able to help a lot of people if they can find this page lol

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Re: Noobs ka24det walkthrough

Post by blacice » Fri Dec 20, 2013 1:29 pm

Definitely worth the time to read and follow. I'm a noob also (to turbo) but it's just like building a regular motor, you want it to last and after a year or two driving with 300HP you will want more, why not build right and spend the $800 now instead of 6 months later

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Re: Noobs ka24det walkthrough

Post by Brenden91 » Thu Feb 13, 2014 11:26 pm

Hey just wondering, I rebuilt my motor in highschool (3 years ago) and ran out of money to do forged pistons at the time. I currently am running eagle rods, acl bearings, arp headstuds, and a cometic head gasket and new rings pistons were still in good shape. I am finishing up picking up some of the last parts on my list for turbo, was planning on running 7-8psi, and was wondering how reliable this set up would be or how long it will last until i rebuild the bottom end again, also would it be safe given everything is still in good shape to run the same bearings when install new pistons or will i have to purchase it all over again. Only planning on 250-300 until pistons go in

thank you

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Re: Noobs ka24det walkthrough

Post by shift_down » Fri Feb 14, 2014 3:01 am

You can easily make 300hp reliably on that set up, no problem; as long as you have the tune to support it.
Before turboing your motor, do a compression check. If you get a similar psi between 170-210, then you are good to go. I say 170-210 becaus i don't know if you decked the block head.

Also, as long as your clearances are within spec, bearings should be fine.
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Re: Noobs ka24det walkthrough

Post by Brenden91 » Wed Feb 19, 2014 10:20 am

Cool, thanks! Yeah running a tune with 550 injectors and a new high flow pump, only thing I need to still get are lines for water/oil feed return. Doing a compression test, fingers crossed

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Re: Noobs ka24det walkthrough

Post by Brenden91 » Thu Feb 20, 2014 1:31 pm

One more question, what to set timing at, how much to retard it

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Re: Noobs ka24det walkthrough

Post by blarousse » Tue Mar 11, 2014 6:02 pm

The set up I have includes:
Sr t25 turbo
intercooler w/ pipping
370cc injectors
emance tuned ecu for this set up with stock mafs
I have all my plumbing lines

I do not yet have:
sandwich plate
wide band
boost controller
upgraded fuel pump
Oil pan bung
boost controller
guages

What else do I need to complete my kit? Im slowly gathering stuff for my ka-t. I plan on running about 6psi on stock bottom end with about 20k on the rebuild. What kind of power gain can I expect? Also the ecu is for an s13 but I have a 98, where can I find an adapter plug?

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Re: Noobs ka24det walkthrough

Post by Brenden91 » Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:15 am

Hey,
I am in the middle of my first build as well, I found that you need to still get a heat shield for the bmc also if you are planning on running oil feed from the sandwich plate it will be unfiltered oil unless the sandwich has a filtered port, but it looks like you still need an exhaust manifold and just small things like if you plan on putting in some new plugs and wires as well as an egr block off plate if you plan on that, but looks pretty good

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Re: Noobs ka24det walkthrough

Post by blarousse » Thu Mar 20, 2014 4:49 pm

Egregious has been blocked off lol..... and yeah I have a bottom mount mani I forgot to put that

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