Changing Piston Rods Neccessary?
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Changing Piston Rods Neccessary?
Im about to have my ka24e with 170K rebuilt and I wanted to eventually boost it to get about 200-250HP with 7psi of boost and I was wondering if changing out the Piston Connecting Rods is necessary?
If the stock ones are in good shape, so are you. Stock rods bend around 450whp.
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Yea, were good here. Zilvia is known to be full as asshats.
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13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
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13.1 @ 114 - 2.3 60ft - 8/2012
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Re: Changing Piston Rods Neccessary?
How long ago was it rebuilt? If it's been a while you might want to do a compression test.254chamorro wrote:Im about to have my ka24e with 170K rebuilt and I wanted to eventually boost it to get about 200-250HP with 7psi of boost and I was wondering if changing out the Piston Connecting Rods is necessary?
My wife "haven't you spent enough time and money on that car yet?" my answer "no"
The build thread-> viewtopic.php?t=58421&highlight=
The build thread-> viewtopic.php?t=58421&highlight=
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Re: Changing Piston Rods Neccessary?
I haven't yet in a month or so just trying to get an idea of work needed and costwannabethestig wrote:How long ago was it rebuilt? If it's been a while you might want to do a compression test.254chamorro wrote:Im about to have my ka24e with 170K rebuilt and I wanted to eventually boost it to get about 200-250HP with 7psi of boost and I was wondering if changing out the Piston Connecting Rods is necessary?
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Re: Changing Piston Rods Neccessary?
Sorry, i reread your post. What supa said for con rods but hp is addictive and you might wanna think about some forged pistons.254chamorro wrote:I haven't yet in a month or so just trying to get an idea of work needed and costwannabethestig wrote:How long ago was it rebuilt? If it's been a while you might want to do a compression test.254chamorro wrote:Im about to have my ka24e with 170K rebuilt and I wanted to eventually boost it to get about 200-250HP with 7psi of boost and I was wondering if changing out the Piston Connecting Rods is necessary?
My wife "haven't you spent enough time and money on that car yet?" my answer "no"
The build thread-> viewtopic.php?t=58421&highlight=
The build thread-> viewtopic.php?t=58421&highlight=
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Stock pistons and rods are cheap, so if you feel comfortable spending a little; buy new ones. If you are looking for 250hp, stock is fine. No need for a compression test if you are rebuilding the motor. Rebuilding means you will change the piston rings :p
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Well the rebuild kit comes with new pistons and as far as rods I have only found eagle rods for 350$ are new stock rods cheaper than that?shift_down wrote:Stock pistons and rods are cheap, so if you feel comfortable spending a little; buy new ones. If you are looking for 250hp, stock is fine. No need for a compression test if you are rebuilding the motor. Rebuilding means you will change the piston rings :p
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My advice:
Always learn from others' mistakes. Do it right the first time, or you can end up paying twice.
Do this:
Eagle rods
Weisco Pistons
Felpro Head gasket
ARP main bolts
ARP head bolts
Clevite bearings
Nissan Timing kit
If you have already bought the rebuild kit then:
1) Return it
2) Use it with your stock rods if they are in good condition
Always learn from others' mistakes. Do it right the first time, or you can end up paying twice.
Do this:
Eagle rods
Weisco Pistons
Felpro Head gasket
ARP main bolts
ARP head bolts
Clevite bearings
Nissan Timing kit
If you have already bought the rebuild kit then:
1) Return it
2) Use it with your stock rods if they are in good condition
Come at me bro
Fast
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Cheap;
You can only pick two, so choose wisely!
My build thread: viewtopic.php?t=57539
Fast
Reliable
Cheap;
You can only pick two, so choose wisely!
My build thread: viewtopic.php?t=57539
- R34SR
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that do it once do it right thing is sometimes taken to an extreme and overkill ensues...the man said 200 -250 hp.....why should he go wasting that much money to make 250hp??
felpro gaskets top to bottom, new rings and bearings...done.
if the motor had good compression from before i would just have the bores honed, i wouldnt even bother having the block and head decked if it was in good condition before...just polish it with some brillo or emery.
and if he decided to run more power in the future then go for a full out build when that time comes, it sure as hell beats spending thousands of dollars to do a full out build right now.
felpro gaskets top to bottom, new rings and bearings...done.
if the motor had good compression from before i would just have the bores honed, i wouldnt even bother having the block and head decked if it was in good condition before...just polish it with some brillo or emery.
and if he decided to run more power in the future then go for a full out build when that time comes, it sure as hell beats spending thousands of dollars to do a full out build right now.
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TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
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Without the wife noticing lol. Throw some shoes in there and she won't know where the money went
Come at me bro
Fast
Reliable
Cheap;
You can only pick two, so choose wisely!
My build thread: viewtopic.php?t=57539
Fast
Reliable
Cheap;
You can only pick two, so choose wisely!
My build thread: viewtopic.php?t=57539
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lol love that one.shift_down wrote:Without the wife noticing lol. Throw some shoes in there and she won't know where the money went
it all comes to what you want in the end but one thing is boost is addictive and 7psi will end up wanting more. so if you go bigger now with the parts you wont be in it later on .
my self i want 300-350 hp so i am doing forged insides. this way if i want more i can go more and if i want to be more of a daily driver i can can with out the fear of braking.
- R34SR
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im happy i built my motor, it has withstood some things already that a stock motor probably would not have....25psi overboost for example ( thanks to 8bits advice of keeping a low timing overboost section on my timing map it was saved ) however the more i learn the more i feel that BUILT motors are for exactly this purpose...it allows us to make rookie mistakes without the consequences of a blown motor.....if i could take what i know now and go back to last year, id feel confident in using a stock block motor in getting to my goals of 350whp without a doubt.......would also be nice to have that extra 4k in my bank too.
in the end , if you can afford it, just build it...its a great learning experience also.
in the end , if you can afford it, just build it...its a great learning experience also.
MEGASQUIRT 2 PNP
AEM IGN1A COILS
EAGLE-ARP-SUPERTECH 9:1 KA24DE
BW S257 SX-E .78AR
ID1050x Injectors
Full Race twin scroll manifold
ISIS FMIC
Mazworx z32 tranny swap
CTS V CALIPERS
STANCE LX+ Coilovers
J30 LSD
AME FS01 WHEELS 18X9 +25
AEM IGN1A COILS
EAGLE-ARP-SUPERTECH 9:1 KA24DE
BW S257 SX-E .78AR
ID1050x Injectors
Full Race twin scroll manifold
ISIS FMIC
Mazworx z32 tranny swap
CTS V CALIPERS
STANCE LX+ Coilovers
J30 LSD
AME FS01 WHEELS 18X9 +25
TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
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http://realstreetperformance.com/store/ ... 4l-29.html
Wiseco Pistons and Eagle Rods for $779.99 comes with ARP Rod Bolts, piston rings, etc.. I think that's a steal! I am probably going to go with that.
Wiseco Pistons and Eagle Rods for $779.99 comes with ARP Rod Bolts, piston rings, etc.. I think that's a steal! I am probably going to go with that.
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thats what i paid for mine. I am more than happy with them.pballa88 wrote:http://Wiseco Pistons and Eagle Rods for $779.99 comes with ARP Rod Bolts, piston rings, etc.. I think that's a steal! I am probably going to go with that.
viewtopic.php?t=53160&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
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I thought the DE pistons wont work in my sohc to low of compression?pballa88 wrote:http://realstreetperformance.com/store/ ... 4l-29.html
Wiseco Pistons and Eagle Rods for $779.99 comes with ARP Rod Bolts, piston rings, etc.. I think that's a steal! I am probably going to go with that.
Hafa Adai chelu. My experience is that 250 hp get's boring fast. I would build the motor once and have it ready to handle whatever you want to throw at it. Only if budget allows. But if you don't want to spend too much right now refresh the motor and make sure the tune is right on then it should be cherry.
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K1 rods
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Arias 8:8:1 .20 over
K1 rods
Arp head,main,rod studs
Kelford 272's,dual valve springs
Precision 6262sp .82a/r, peakboost manifold
Cxracing fmic
Fuel injector development 2000cc
Proefi pro128, e85 flex fuel
Rb25 flywheel, dxd 350z clutch
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I found on wiki that OEM rods are forged anyone can confirm.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_KA_engine
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_KA_engine
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OEM rods are forged, but that doesnt mean they are strong
The KA is half counterweighted and piston speeds are really high compared to other engines, if anything is going to be the weak point its most likely going to be the rod and piston pin.
If you dont get any detonation, then your piston will crack or melt haha
The KA is half counterweighted and piston speeds are really high compared to other engines, if anything is going to be the weak point its most likely going to be the rod and piston pin.
If you dont get any detonation, then your piston will crack or melt haha
D21, Built KA24DE, 740cc, T4, WeatherGuard Tool Box, Tial 40mm, Megasquirt 3 in progress