Changing Piston Rods Neccessary?

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254chamorro
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Changing Piston Rods Neccessary?

Post by 254chamorro »

Im about to have my ka24e with 170K rebuilt and I wanted to eventually boost it to get about 200-250HP with 7psi of boost and I was wondering if changing out the Piston Connecting Rods is necessary?
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supakat
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Post by supakat »

If the stock ones are in good shape, so are you. Stock rods bend around 450whp.
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254chamorro
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Post by 254chamorro »

Ok thanks ive been posting this question around at different sites and all I've gotten were unconstructive wise ass remarks.
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Post by supakat »

Yea, were good here. Zilvia is known to be full as asshats.
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wannabethestig
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Re: Changing Piston Rods Neccessary?

Post by wannabethestig »

254chamorro wrote:Im about to have my ka24e with 170K rebuilt and I wanted to eventually boost it to get about 200-250HP with 7psi of boost and I was wondering if changing out the Piston Connecting Rods is necessary?
How long ago was it rebuilt? If it's been a while you might want to do a compression test.
My wife "haven't you spent enough time and money on that car yet?" my answer "no"

The build thread-> viewtopic.php?t=58421&highlight=
254chamorro
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Re: Changing Piston Rods Neccessary?

Post by 254chamorro »

wannabethestig wrote:
254chamorro wrote:Im about to have my ka24e with 170K rebuilt and I wanted to eventually boost it to get about 200-250HP with 7psi of boost and I was wondering if changing out the Piston Connecting Rods is necessary?
How long ago was it rebuilt? If it's been a while you might want to do a compression test.
I haven't yet in a month or so just trying to get an idea of work needed and cost
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Re: Changing Piston Rods Neccessary?

Post by wannabethestig »

254chamorro wrote:
wannabethestig wrote:
254chamorro wrote:Im about to have my ka24e with 170K rebuilt and I wanted to eventually boost it to get about 200-250HP with 7psi of boost and I was wondering if changing out the Piston Connecting Rods is necessary?
How long ago was it rebuilt? If it's been a while you might want to do a compression test.
I haven't yet in a month or so just trying to get an idea of work needed and cost
Sorry, i reread your post. What supa said for con rods but hp is addictive and you might wanna think about some forged pistons.
My wife "haven't you spent enough time and money on that car yet?" my answer "no"

The build thread-> viewtopic.php?t=58421&highlight=
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Post by shift_down »

Stock pistons and rods are cheap, so if you feel comfortable spending a little; buy new ones. If you are looking for 250hp, stock is fine. No need for a compression test if you are rebuilding the motor. Rebuilding means you will change the piston rings :p
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254chamorro
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Post by 254chamorro »

shift_down wrote:Stock pistons and rods are cheap, so if you feel comfortable spending a little; buy new ones. If you are looking for 250hp, stock is fine. No need for a compression test if you are rebuilding the motor. Rebuilding means you will change the piston rings :p
Well the rebuild kit comes with new pistons and as far as rods I have only found eagle rods for 350$ are new stock rods cheaper than that?
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Post by shift_down »

My advice:

Always learn from others' mistakes. Do it right the first time, or you can end up paying twice.
Do this:
Eagle rods
Weisco Pistons
Felpro Head gasket
ARP main bolts
ARP head bolts
Clevite bearings
Nissan Timing kit

If you have already bought the rebuild kit then:

1) Return it
2) Use it with your stock rods if they are in good condition
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Post by R34SR »

that do it once do it right thing is sometimes taken to an extreme and overkill ensues...the man said 200 -250 hp.....why should he go wasting that much money to make 250hp??

felpro gaskets top to bottom, new rings and bearings...done.

if the motor had good compression from before i would just have the bores honed, i wouldnt even bother having the block and head decked if it was in good condition before...just polish it with some brillo or emery.

and if he decided to run more power in the future then go for a full out build when that time comes, it sure as hell beats spending thousands of dollars to do a full out build right now.
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TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
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Post by 254chamorro »

I have alot to think about now and alot of number punching and alot of bank account skimming without the wife noticing lol. Thanks for all your help everyone.
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Post by shift_down »

Without the wife noticing lol. Throw some shoes in there and she won't know where the money went :P
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Post by s13halfs15 »

shift_down wrote:Without the wife noticing lol. Throw some shoes in there and she won't know where the money went :P
lol love that one.
it all comes to what you want in the end but one thing is boost is addictive and 7psi will end up wanting more. so if you go bigger now with the parts you wont be in it later on .
my self i want 300-350 hp so i am doing forged insides. this way if i want more i can go more and if i want to be more of a daily driver i can can with out the fear of braking.
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Post by R34SR »

im happy i built my motor, it has withstood some things already that a stock motor probably would not have....25psi overboost for example ( thanks to 8bits advice of keeping a low timing overboost section on my timing map it was saved ) however the more i learn the more i feel that BUILT motors are for exactly this purpose...it allows us to make rookie mistakes without the consequences of a blown motor.....if i could take what i know now and go back to last year, id feel confident in using a stock block motor in getting to my goals of 350whp without a doubt.......would also be nice to have that extra 4k in my bank too.

in the end , if you can afford it, just build it...its a great learning experience also.
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TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG
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Post by mechavore884 »

Id say switch them any honestly. Granted they're probably fine the joy of the rebuild is that when you boost you don't have to worry tooo tooo much about blowing up the motor (peace of mind kinda thing) ...besides its something you typically would do only once really
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Post by mechavore884 »

and +1 for the zilvia comment I found this forum 10090909708e098098 times more helpful than the flamethrowers on that forum haha
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Post by pballa88 »

http://realstreetperformance.com/store/ ... 4l-29.html

Wiseco Pistons and Eagle Rods for $779.99 comes with ARP Rod Bolts, piston rings, etc.. I think that's a steal! I am probably going to go with that.
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Post by 500hpKA240sx »

pballa88 wrote:http://Wiseco Pistons and Eagle Rods for $779.99 comes with ARP Rod Bolts, piston rings, etc.. I think that's a steal! I am probably going to go with that.
thats what i paid for mine. I am more than happy with them.
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254chamorro
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Post by 254chamorro »

pballa88 wrote:http://realstreetperformance.com/store/ ... 4l-29.html

Wiseco Pistons and Eagle Rods for $779.99 comes with ARP Rod Bolts, piston rings, etc.. I think that's a steal! I am probably going to go with that.
I thought the DE pistons wont work in my sohc to low of compression?
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Post by BoBaCk1 »

Hafa Adai chelu. My experience is that 250 hp get's boring fast. I would build the motor once and have it ready to handle whatever you want to throw at it. Only if budget allows. But if you don't want to spend too much right now refresh the motor and make sure the tune is right on then it should be cherry.
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254chamorro
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Post by 254chamorro »

I found on wiki that OEM rods are forged anyone can confirm.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_KA_engine
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Post by schmauster920 »

OEM rods are forged, but that doesnt mean they are strong


The KA is half counterweighted and piston speeds are really high compared to other engines, if anything is going to be the weak point its most likely going to be the rod and piston pin.

If you dont get any detonation, then your piston will crack or melt haha
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