Fresh rebuild cooling issues

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ttr187
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Fresh rebuild cooling issues

Post by ttr187 » Wed May 22, 2013 5:38 pm

Just dropped a freshly rebuilt engine in the s14 and everything went pretty smoothly. It starts and runs ok, but for some reason the coolant system is not working correctly.

The lower radiator hose is not getting warm while the top is getting hot. In fact, the whole radiator has this characteristic where the top of the radiator is hot to the touch while the bottom is room temp.

It has a new water pump and I've tried two different brand new thermostats without success. Any suggestions on what may be happening here?

Thanks.

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Post by Marcus » Wed May 22, 2013 5:48 pm

Incoming replies by the dozen are on their way to say you didn't bleed it. My question is who rebuilt it?

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Post by ttr187 » Wed May 22, 2013 6:37 pm

I poured coolant into the head and block via the upper intake manifold coolant outlet as well as running the engine with the bleeder valve unbolted until coolant was flowing out.

Is there something I'm missing in the bleeding process?

As far as the engine, I built it myself. You think the build could cause this issue?

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Post by Marcus » Wed May 22, 2013 6:58 pm

To skip all of the notorious replies associated with this issue I would suggest putting a coolant pressure tester on it and see if you're bleeding coolant pressure somewhere. Beyond that it is an air pocket, thermostat, or an issue with the symbiotic coolant system.

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ttr187
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Post by ttr187 » Sat May 25, 2013 8:46 am

Well, I removed the thermostat and bled the cooling system again. Now I can drive it around, but it will start to overheat if I'm sitting for too long. I'm really puzzled and any suggestions, notorious or not, would be appreciated.

Symbiotic cooling system? Are you referring to the oil system? I'm not leaking coolant anywhere and not burning it in the cylinders. So in that case, if i had a pressure tester, what would a pressure leak indicate?

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Post by boker240 » Sat May 25, 2013 1:33 pm

ok dude.go buy a coolant funnel kit.this allows the coolant to push out all the air pockets.when u let the bleeder loose u willl here all the air come out.bleed it until it comes out solid like a water fountain.
or u can do the notorious jack the front of the car up.........wait,,,is it a totally stock coolant system or aftermarket rad. if its stock u could have a clogged radiator. it happens all the time w old stock rads.find a digital thermometer and shoot it all around to see temps after it has warmed up.when it starts over heating w be a good time to do this as the whole damn radiator should be around the same temp.
for instance mine was 163 degrees at the top,140 in the middle,120 over on either edge and around 145 at the bottom.thats a clogged radiator my freind.gl

u sure u got the head torqued right and have no doubts about hg?what kind of hg did u use?
arias 8.8.1,615 tomie inj.,clevite bearings,arp 10mm hs,z32 maf,jwt ecu,intake butterflies removed,all emissions removed,cx rad. dif dual fan controller,altima dual fans,fidanza fw,stage 3 clutch,solid d shaft,j30 rearend,energy suspension bushings,kyb struts,155 lbs weight reduction.
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He'll probably blow the motor, and then join the army of retards who hate on KA's for no good reason.

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Post by ttr187 » Sat May 25, 2013 2:25 pm

It's a Koyo rad but it was on the car previously so it could be clogged. The HG is a stock replacement, and the car is not smoking at all so I'm pretty positive the HG is not leaking.

I'll try and flush the rad and see if a bunch of junk comes out as it could be clogged. I'll pull the plugs as well to double check if there is any sign of coolant leaking into the cylinders.

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Post by digotti » Sat May 25, 2013 5:37 pm

It sounds like an air pocket to me. Get a friend to help... Unlock the bleeder screw for the cooling system. Take the cap off the radiator wrap the sprayer on the end of a garden hose with a rag. Place them into the radiator spout. Blow water into it and lock the bleeder down as water is spaying out of it. Works like a charm. These cars are notorious for air pockets in the head

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Post by schmauster920 » Sun May 26, 2013 10:36 pm

Get the front end of the car up as high as possible when bleeding the cooling system
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Post by Berserker » Mon May 27, 2013 4:13 am

I ussually just lift the front up fill her up while having the heat on, Untill it starts pouring out of the bleeder screw. Then start the car while front is lifted up, radiator cap off let it run till heat blows hot inside the car, put the cap back on go for a drive. Easiest fix for me driving last 3 years no t-stat, it bleeds easier. But then again its not my daily and summer car only.
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Post by boker240 » Mon May 27, 2013 10:54 am

x2 ^^^ya i forgot turn the heater on.
arias 8.8.1,615 tomie inj.,clevite bearings,arp 10mm hs,z32 maf,jwt ecu,intake butterflies removed,all emissions removed,cx rad. dif dual fan controller,altima dual fans,fidanza fw,stage 3 clutch,solid d shaft,j30 rearend,energy suspension bushings,kyb struts,155 lbs weight reduction.
currently n/a.
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He'll probably blow the motor, and then join the army of retards who hate on KA's for no good reason.

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Post by ttr187 » Sat Jun 01, 2013 1:07 pm

It looks like its a clogged radiator. I'm ordering a new rad on Monday and hopefully I'll get it installed that same week.

Thanks for all the replies. I'll update as soon as I get the new rad tested.

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Post by boker240 » Tue Jun 11, 2013 5:46 pm

ttr187 wrote:It looks like its a clogged radiator. I'm ordering a new rad on Monday and hopefully I'll get it installed that same week.

Thanks for all the replies. I'll update as soon as I get the new rad tested.
:cheers:
arias 8.8.1,615 tomie inj.,clevite bearings,arp 10mm hs,z32 maf,jwt ecu,intake butterflies removed,all emissions removed,cx rad. dif dual fan controller,altima dual fans,fidanza fw,stage 3 clutch,solid d shaft,j30 rearend,energy suspension bushings,kyb struts,155 lbs weight reduction.
currently n/a.
Image

He'll probably blow the motor, and then join the army of retards who hate on KA's for no good reason.

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