stripped KA/5spd swap/break in start issue.

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rebeltshead
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stripped KA/5spd swap/break in start issue.

Post by rebeltshead »

So I have recently 'finished' my first engine build/ 5spd swap simultaneously.
By finished I mean put together as it will not fire. Cranks normally the first time I tried. After the car was apart for a year and a half.

What's been done to it:

1993 block
1996 head/other components
248/248 cams
i/h/e
walbro 255lph pump
iacv and emissions delete
full climate control delete
air bag & harness delete
5spd from a kouki with RPS clutch
stock auto ecu with auto trans harness
ABS fuses pulled
park position switch is the ONLY wire rigging I have done

Sat for a year and a half with the old gas, which I drained and put premium back in.


It cranks easily but will not fire. Has spark, timing is right, pretty sure is has fuel because I was using the pump to drain the tank through the lines. Will be able to check later.

Some people say the 5spd swap will work without the neutral pos switch wired and some say it wont. But the car cranks fine so I'm sure that is not the issue.




Any other common problems or ideas that I may have missed??
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hersheskuirt
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Post by hersheskuirt »

I had the same issue. Car cranks but no fire(fuel pressure is there, spark is there, and the CAS was working). My car sat longer then a year. Come to find out the fuel injectors were stuck closed.

Check to see if you have a signal at your injector plugs. If so then check to see if you injectors are opening. I used a double A battery to test my injectors.
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rebeltshead
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Post by rebeltshead »

Thanks, will check that today. May just jump them to the battery.
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Chris_518
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Post by Chris_518 »

I'm having the same problem. Rebuilt the engine, has 248/248 cams, deleted emissions, deleted IACV. Car sat for over a year with no gas (ran it out of gas before taking engine out). Went to start it up, and it cranks and seems like the battery is dead, but if I press the gas pedal a little the car will fire up. So that has me thinking its the injectors that aren't flowing properly. So I'm wondering if there's any way to test to see if they are working.

Also with out the IACV your going to idle high, my idle was around 1700-2000 rpm. Which is why i put the IACV back in.
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airman
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Post by airman »

Try starter fluid through the throttle body (if you can) or some other vacuum source.

If you have spark, fuel, [correct] timing, and combustion, the engine should at least pop/backfire.

Check all of your harness grounds. Some missing will keep certain relays from activating and this can happen.
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Post by neverlift »

make sure the fuel lines are hooked up right, this has happen to countless speople :?
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Post by Gotenks64 »

neverlift wrote:make sure the fuel lines are hooked up right, this has happen to countless speople :?
I second this! this was my issue. It started with starter fluid but not on the injectors alone.
rebeltshead
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Post by rebeltshead »

Fuel line are hooked up right. Going to go mess with it tonight.

If my injectors are seized could I use something to free them up or just need new ones? I have another rail full of stock injectors but they have also been sitting.
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Post by hersheskuirt »

I got mine to free up by putting fuel injector cleaner in the injector. Here is a step by step process. It’s pretty simple I got a 3/8 hose from autozone, just use some cheap rubber hose. The syringe was from an old turkey baster I had sitting around. Just used some cheap injector cleaner.

Step1: Remove injectors from car
Step2: Attach 3/8 rubber hose to top of injector
Step 3: Fill syringe with fuel injector cleaner
Step4: Attach syringe to 3/8 fuel line
Step 5: Apply pressure to injector by using the syringe
Step 6: Use a double A battery to energize and de-energize the injector. (it makes it easier if you have a second person there to help.)
Step 7: If injector does not open, allow the fluid to sit in the injector for 5 to 10 min. then repeat steps 5 and 6.

I did this and it worked great for me. If it does not work at all then you will need new injectors. Good luck, hope this works for you. Let us know how it works out.
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rebeltshead
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Post by rebeltshead »

So I hooked up a mood light to it and a fuel pressure tester. Negative reading on both...

Now need to figure out the injector circuit and what sensors affect it.


Also....pump works as I tested it with the lines off and it was dumping fuel everywhere. So maybe FPR is bad?? Bought a new filter because why not?


Any input appreciated.
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hersheskuirt
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Post by hersheskuirt »

Check your CAS might have some issues with that.
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rebeltshead
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Post by rebeltshead »

sorry I meant *NOID light up there. lol

so zero signal to injectors
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rebeltshead
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Re: stripped KA/5spd swap/break in start issue.

Post by rebeltshead »

Okay so I'm kind of stupmed but have a lead....which sensor readings will cause an injector to not fire at all???
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hersheskuirt
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Re: stripped KA/5spd swap/break in start issue.

Post by hersheskuirt »

If your Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) is not working, your injectors will not open. The FSM should have infomation on how to diagnose to see if that is your problem.
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Marcus
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Re: stripped KA/5spd swap/break in start issue.

Post by Marcus »

Whoa wait you said fuel pressure was negative in a test? As in pressure? But it does kick on? What pressure reading did you get? If it was low put a set of needle nose pliers on the return after the FPR and pinch it to see if the pressure builds as high as it needs to.
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Re: stripped KA/5spd swap/break in start issue.

Post by 1SikS13 »

take vacuum line off the fpr and try starting it?
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Re: stripped KA/5spd swap/break in start issue.

Post by chillmieste »

im assuming this s13 cause of 93 block? for sure I would swap out the cas with known good one. That gives signal to injectors.
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