Car running horribly. AFR=20,misfires,hard start. [SOLVED]
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Car running horribly. AFR=20,misfires,hard start. [SOLVED]
Well Im out of ideas. Ive done all I could but just cant seem to figure it out. So I decided to post here and maybe somebody can help me out?
PROBLEM
Misfires constantly. Can only start the car if the gas pedal is all the way down when I turn the key, then it idles horribly on its own. The Wideband reads scary lean, and there seems to be ticking noises coming from the motor.
DATA
Boost gauge reads -4 at idle
AFRs read 20 at idle
Oil presssure reads 40-50 at idle
Tach bounces from 900 - 1000 rpm at idle
Compression test reads 210 across all cylinders
TRIED
New cap
New Rotor
New CTS
New wideband sensor
New plug wires
New head gasket and head bolts
Did a boost leak test, and everything is solid.
Did a smoke boost leak test and smoke was nowhere to be found
I tried to read timing via a timing gun, but since it misfires, the marks bounce all over the place with respect to the needle.
I havent pulled it out of the driveway since its been like this.
EDIT:
PROBLEM SOLVED!
The problem was solved thanks to KA-T and McHaals for the answer.
This is what My chain looked like, ONLY 12 LINKS BETWEEN THE CAM DOTS:
McHaals showed me that it is supposed to be like this:
So I pulled the front cover off and turned the cam a little to make the chain correctly positioned.
Problem solved
PROBLEM
Misfires constantly. Can only start the car if the gas pedal is all the way down when I turn the key, then it idles horribly on its own. The Wideband reads scary lean, and there seems to be ticking noises coming from the motor.
DATA
Boost gauge reads -4 at idle
AFRs read 20 at idle
Oil presssure reads 40-50 at idle
Tach bounces from 900 - 1000 rpm at idle
Compression test reads 210 across all cylinders
TRIED
New cap
New Rotor
New CTS
New wideband sensor
New plug wires
New head gasket and head bolts
Did a boost leak test, and everything is solid.
Did a smoke boost leak test and smoke was nowhere to be found
I tried to read timing via a timing gun, but since it misfires, the marks bounce all over the place with respect to the needle.
I havent pulled it out of the driveway since its been like this.
EDIT:
PROBLEM SOLVED!
The problem was solved thanks to KA-T and McHaals for the answer.
This is what My chain looked like, ONLY 12 LINKS BETWEEN THE CAM DOTS:
McHaals showed me that it is supposed to be like this:
So I pulled the front cover off and turned the cam a little to make the chain correctly positioned.
Problem solved
Last edited by shift_down on Tue Jun 18, 2013 7:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Fuel checks out fine. I did not use a gauge, but the pump is new and I always hear it prime. The injectors are all new with new orings as well. I did not check any sensors. I do have a conslt cable for the car that I can connect to my laptop, but I dont know what to look for.
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Problems started after HG was changed.
MAF worked perfectly, FPR worked perfectly also.
I Checked for TDC of crank on compression stroke by opening VC and verifying that the lobes pointed outwards. Also pulled the dizzy cap to verify the rotor was pointing at number one cylinder.
MAF worked perfectly, FPR worked perfectly also.
I Checked for TDC of crank on compression stroke by opening VC and verifying that the lobes pointed outwards. Also pulled the dizzy cap to verify the rotor was pointing at number one cylinder.
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1. The oil was extremely gooey and white. Now that i've changed it, It no longer gets milky.
2. I didnt know there was a difference between leaving and upcoming on the distributor
2. I didnt know there was a difference between leaving and upcoming on the distributor
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Ya im pretty I did. The lobes faced outwards at 11 oclock and 1 oclock. The tension was placed everywhere on the chain except on the tensioner side. Everything rotates perfectly with no valves hit.
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I see what you are saying. I believe that its dead on. I am starting to second guess myself though so I will check again.Marcus wrote:Timing wise 1 tooth off will either see the rotor leaving or coming upon number one.
If the chain is one tooth off, Will the car act like this? Or will it not run at all?
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Sounds like your distributer is a tooth off, when my motor was n/a I had it a tooth of and it idled like a monster port rotary, sounded wicked lol, have tried to make it idle like that with the aem but I have not been successful yet. Anyways while car is running try to rotate distributer to either direction and check if it starts to run any better, if it does you know for Sure that that is the problem, otherwise make sure your cam lobes on #1 are 180 degrees out at tdc, if that checks out I would double check fuel pressure WITH a gauge, and if that checks out try restabbing dizzy anyways and then if you are still unsuccessful, your bottom chain must have come off a tooth,
Also I forgot. Hook up timing light to each plug wire to verify that each wire has spark, and the reason it reads so lean is because when it misfires oxygen from the Missfire makes it read lean since the aft sensor detects oxygen, you are most likely not reading lean unless your tune got messed up when you did the gasket
Also I forgot. Hook up timing light to each plug wire to verify that each wire has spark, and the reason it reads so lean is because when it misfires oxygen from the Missfire makes it read lean since the aft sensor detects oxygen, you are most likely not reading lean unless your tune got messed up when you did the gasket
in a datsun 510:
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eagle rods
clevite bearings
ferrea/exhaust supertech/intake stk
supertech springs and retainers
bc valve guides v2 cams currently crower 288/288 (no good)
port and polish
arp head, main, rod bolts
osk timing
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lol:
arias 8.8 .020
eagle rods
clevite bearings
ferrea/exhaust supertech/intake stk
supertech springs and retainers
bc valve guides v2 cams currently crower 288/288 (no good)
port and polish
arp head, main, rod bolts
osk timing
current: custom log mani, TIAL mvr,
later: ati SD garret gtx3071 currently in my possession looking for gtx3576
custom downpipe
lol:
sdaigle240 wrote:beat that thing like it owes you money.
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Oh ya, my bad. 9 and 3 is where I have it. It looks just like that
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What he said ^^^ViperGT wrote:Sounds like your distributer is a tooth off
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
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Okay, I will go redistribute the distributor and report back.
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Okay I am 100% sure that my distributor is perfectly timed. I know this because I rotated the dizzy clockwise and it wanted to die, I then rotated it counter-clockwise and it wanted to die. When I put it directly in the middle, it runs the best. So I concluded that ignition timing is dead on.
So the only other option is I did not put the top chain on correctly, or the bottom chain jumped a tooth. Correct? But is it really possible for the bottom chain to jump a tooth while doing a HG job? Also, would the car even start if the bottom tooth jumped?
Any other options before I pull the front cover back off?
So the only other option is I did not put the top chain on correctly, or the bottom chain jumped a tooth. Correct? But is it really possible for the bottom chain to jump a tooth while doing a HG job? Also, would the car even start if the bottom tooth jumped?
Any other options before I pull the front cover back off?
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ya, injectors are fine
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simply set crankshaft to TDC , and see the cams ( 9,3 )shift_down wrote:Okay I am 100% sure that my distributor is perfectly timed. I know this because I rotated the dizzy clockwise and it wanted to die, I then rotated it counter-clockwise and it wanted to die. When I put it directly in the middle, it runs the best. So I concluded that ignition timing is dead on.
So the only other option is I did not put the top chain on correctly, or the bottom chain jumped a tooth. Correct? But is it really possible for the bottom chain to jump a tooth while doing a HG job? Also, would the car even start if the bottom tooth jumped?
Any other options before I pull the front cover back off?
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I did this, and the cams are at 9 and 3. So the top chain is aligned properly?
So this must mean that the bottom chain had jumped?
So this must mean that the bottom chain had jumped?
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Okay I will tear the components back down and redo it if neccessary.Gotenks64 wrote:At this point you may want to tear the timing components down again and redo it. Maybe it did jump a tooth, I don’t like speculating so cams re aligned, and the dizzy reset. Also did you us a timing light? and are you sure the correct cam is on the intake side? maybe you swapped the two.
I tried using a timing light, but the needle bounces all over the place with respect to the markings on the shaft. This is because every time the car misfires, the needle jumps somewhere else.
Cams are in correct order, very sure of it.
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Okay I pulled the valve cover to verify the dizzy was on. Its perfect. So I took pics of the lobes at TDC to make sure everything is in order. All these pics are TDC of compression stroke. Everything looks fine to me, any feedback?
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I think you may be correct! I was checking JWT's website on how to install cams correctly, but he says to mark the chain before pulling it off. Well, I obviously cannot do that. Is there any other article showing how to install them correctly? I think this may be my problem.
Its hard to think that everything will line up perfectly if its that much off though. I need think about this for a little.
Its hard to think that everything will line up perfectly if its that much off though. I need think about this for a little.
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Thank you very much. Ill go work on this right now.
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Just got done! I manages to drop a bolt in the oil pan lol, I'm not pulling the pan again. Also I started it up and no more misfires! Awesome!
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