KA-T on AEM Series 2 Breaking Up on dyno
KA-T on AEM Series 2 Breaking Up on dyno
Last Friday my car went to my tuner for a full tune. Was previously on Enthalphy but over the winter I went AEM and switched up my injectors to ID1000. Tuner was able to tune cold start, hot start and driveability. When he went to go to do some power pulls and start tuning to extract power the motor was breaking up at WOT and heavy load, starting ~3200rpm. This threw me off as the car was able to do WOT pulls previously with the ROM tune. I unfortunately forgot to ask him to do a couple pulls with the AEM logging on before he pulled the car off the dyno. Any ideas of what can be going on? I plan on rewiring the coil for direct power from battery (with relay of course), adding a couple more grounds to the motor and changing the cap/rotor then going to log and do some WOT pulls on the highway. Thanks in advance for any help/ideas.
Re: KA-T on AEM Series 2 Breaking Up on dyno
My guess would be that it's ignition related. Plugs?
Also, did you replace the CAS trigger wheel with the one for the AEM?
Also, did you replace the CAS trigger wheel with the one for the AEM?
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
Re: KA-T on AEM Series 2 Breaking Up on dyno
We changed the plugs on the dyno to a fresh set. Thought it was spark blow out so we started stepping the gap down and it was still happening even down at .024 gap. Like I said, nothing really changed (same boost) as when on ROM tune and was able to do WOT pulls to rev limiter.
Yes, CAS trigger wheel was changed to the AEM one. I don't think the car would run on the AEM without it, but I could be wrong.
Yes, CAS trigger wheel was changed to the AEM one. I don't think the car would run on the AEM without it, but I could be wrong.
Re: KA-T on AEM Series 2 Breaking Up on dyno
I'm not sure about the series 2, but the series 1 would run on the stock disc. But it tends to lose sync easily, which is why I asked.
Switching to an AEM and new injectors is a pretty major change. It seems that the tune itself is most likely the issue. I doubt anyone will be able to diagnose it without at least some data logs.
Switching to an AEM and new injectors is a pretty major change. It seems that the tune itself is most likely the issue. I doubt anyone will be able to diagnose it without at least some data logs.
Wiseco/Eagle, JWT S1 cams, BC valve springs, PT5857, ID1700 injectors, SR20DET ECU w/ Nismotronic, COP conversion with LS ignition coils, etc, etc...
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
--> YouTube channel --> my build thread
- Greaser
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Re: KA-T on AEM Series 2 Breaking Up on dyno
Look first for timing errors whenever it misses. Ive had it happen alot. Put a new cas on and usually fixes it.
Re: KA-T on AEM Series 2 Breaking Up on dyno
Will do a couple of pulls while the AEM is logging to see what's going on when it breaks up. I'll report back after it's done. Until then please keep the ideas flowing! Thanks guys.
Quick question: How many grounds does everyone have on their motor to chassis?
Quick question: How many grounds does everyone have on their motor to chassis?
- Greaser
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Re: KA-T on AEM Series 2 Breaking Up on dyno
you should only have one. minimum of 4 gauge.
make sure to add "timing errors" and "synch errors" to your log list. They can be at the very bottom of the slow channels, just as long as they are there.
If you really wanna get jiggy with it, add "crank tooth period" and "T2PER" to your log at the very top channels one and two. Then setup logging so it logs above 1 psi and at the fastest speed. This will show you the amount of time between teeth on the cam and crank channels.
Then send me the logs. AEM is what I specialize in.
make sure to add "timing errors" and "synch errors" to your log list. They can be at the very bottom of the slow channels, just as long as they are there.
If you really wanna get jiggy with it, add "crank tooth period" and "T2PER" to your log at the very top channels one and two. Then setup logging so it logs above 1 psi and at the fastest speed. This will show you the amount of time between teeth on the cam and crank channels.
Then send me the logs. AEM is what I specialize in.
Re: KA-T on AEM Series 2 Breaking Up on dyno
@Greaser thanks for the input! I will defiantly add those channels to what i will be logging. Is there any negative effects if I were to have too many grounds?
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Re: KA-T on AEM Series 2 Breaking Up on dyno
yes. will introduce noise into stereo system and electrical system. Called ground loops https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_lo ... tricity%29. Make sure all grounds are clean to bare metal no paint. That goes for battery terminals too if you have the local parts store terminals that are painted.M3LVIN wrote:@Greaser thanks for the input! I will defiantly add those channels to what i will be logging. Is there any negative effects if I were to have too many grounds?
Wheres the battery? What gauge wire is connected to it? Aem's(and any ecu for that matter) go crazy if cranking voltage goes below 10 volts. I'm working on a car right now thats haggard as *****, painted advanced auto battery terminals, "4gauge" amp wiring from the trunk to the fuse box, **** crimps on **** car stereo 4gauge crimp terminals, grounds are wrapped around a bolt and tightened, grounds on paint. During cranking the battery voltage drops to 6 volts, timing errors and synch errors, all the terminals and wires get warm and its ***** with the ecu. After I stop the cranking, the ecu is still counting cam/crank pulses and is still firing the injectors and coils. I put a jump box on at the starters terminals and ground to intake mani and voltage during cranking is 11.2 and the ecu synchs quickly and after cranking no run condition does not count cam/crank craziness.
Re: KA-T on AEM Series 2 Breaking Up on dyno
Battery is in the trunk. Used a Taylor 2 gauge battery relocation kit. Ground is to a hole that i drilled myself on the chassis, paint sanded off the mounting area and secured correctly with a nut/bolt on an unpainted hammer crimped terminal. When I get back from the track this weekend I will log the start up of the car, see what the ecu is reading. Thanks again for the input and help!
Re: KA-T on AEM Series 2 Breaking Up on dyno
So an update to this battle lol. Here is what I have done to try to remedy this.
- Changed out cap and rotor
- New Mangecore wires
- Took out smaller grounds and made one 4ga ground wire off head to clean metal ground on firewall.
- Ran the battery cable in interior against the tunnel and through a new hole instead of by the ecu/engine harness (thought it might be causing noise in the harness)
- New reman'd distributor
- New plugs (tried 2 sets just to make sure)
- Made a jumper harness to the distributor. New shielded wires that are properly shielded and pinned into the proper spots on the ecu plug end. Ran on top of dash and through the window into the engine bay for testing to ensure no noise interference.
All of this done and the car still does the same thing under heavy load. I'll admit that it's not as much as when I picked it up from the dyno day but it's still happening and sometimes hiccups at idle as well. I will be trying another reman'd dizzy soon as well.
Been in contact with AEM and have sent them a couple logs. They finally have said that I am ok to beat on it and am able to get it tuned at my target boost, 18psi.
Thoughts? lol
- Changed out cap and rotor
- New Mangecore wires
- Took out smaller grounds and made one 4ga ground wire off head to clean metal ground on firewall.
- Ran the battery cable in interior against the tunnel and through a new hole instead of by the ecu/engine harness (thought it might be causing noise in the harness)
- New reman'd distributor
- New plugs (tried 2 sets just to make sure)
- Made a jumper harness to the distributor. New shielded wires that are properly shielded and pinned into the proper spots on the ecu plug end. Ran on top of dash and through the window into the engine bay for testing to ensure no noise interference.
All of this done and the car still does the same thing under heavy load. I'll admit that it's not as much as when I picked it up from the dyno day but it's still happening and sometimes hiccups at idle as well. I will be trying another reman'd dizzy soon as well.
Been in contact with AEM and have sent them a couple logs. They finally have said that I am ok to beat on it and am able to get it tuned at my target boost, 18psi.
Thoughts? lol
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- NooB
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Re: KA-T on AEM Series 2 Breaking Up on dyno
Had the same thing happen to me, running aem series 2 with id 1000cc injectors, percision 6152 turbo and it would drive fine but would break up under load when we would hit boost, i had to replace my head gasket, what was happening is that some water was getting into the cylinder so when ur applying load to the motor the car cant get teh correct combustion right which lead to break up during boost which seems like your blowing spark, thats we thought happend with us too. So you prolly gonna end up having to change your head gasket soon
but hey i might be wrong, just telling you my experience
but hey i might be wrong, just telling you my experience
Re: KA-T on AEM Series 2 Breaking Up on dyno
Good to know! Thanks.