RB25 Trans behind a KA24DE
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- 240sx Wannabe
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Micro update: Dropped the transmission off at 240sxMotoring to have the upper bolt holes welded up so I could re-drill it in the proper position, and it was recommended to just weld in a new upper section. This way, I can also include the third bolt hole that doesn't match up at all (2 o'clock position looking from the input shaft side) as well as retain the upper dowel pin (3 o'clock position dowel looks to already line up).
Luckily, I have a couple spare transmissions, so a donor bell housing was easy to come by:
I'm thinking that I should have cut it further back and also replaced the starter bolt holes, although they're still beefy enough to hold onto the starter if I choose to do that. If not, I've got another transmission sitting in the garage with a blown 2nd gear.
Luckily, I have a couple spare transmissions, so a donor bell housing was easy to come by:
I'm thinking that I should have cut it further back and also replaced the starter bolt holes, although they're still beefy enough to hold onto the starter if I choose to do that. If not, I've got another transmission sitting in the garage with a blown 2nd gear.
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- 240sx Wannabe
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Yes, a section of the KA trans flange will get cut off and grafted onto a similarly cut out section of the RB bellhousing in order to line 3 bolts and 1 dowel pin up, using the dust cover as a template. Also, I recently got my aluminum RB25DET to S14 driveshaft in, but I won't be starting the swap for a few weeks as I'm moving all my stuff to a new garage.
The total swap should cost less than a bolt-on conversion kit, although the fab work is definitely more time consuming. I also got a good deal on the transmission, so savings will vary. The other consideration is that VG transmissions are easy to find, so something like the Xcessive kit would be great for someone that blows transmissions up all the time. In this case, I'm doing this in order to not blow things up (knock on wood), and if this gear set doesn't hold up, I'll most likely upgrade again.
The total swap should cost less than a bolt-on conversion kit, although the fab work is definitely more time consuming. I also got a good deal on the transmission, so savings will vary. The other consideration is that VG transmissions are easy to find, so something like the Xcessive kit would be great for someone that blows transmissions up all the time. In this case, I'm doing this in order to not blow things up (knock on wood), and if this gear set doesn't hold up, I'll most likely upgrade again.
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- 240sx Wannabe
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Figured I'd keep everyone posted on progress, since there was some interest out there.
Since Jeff at 240sxMotoring has been busy with his race car (something I can relate to) and customer cars, I took it upon myself to do the cutting and fitting so that all he'll have to do is TIG it up. Started by marking off where I'd need to start my initial cuts:
Took a deep breath and hacked the marked section out of the new tranny:
Figured out where to cut on the previously cut bellhousing section:
And ground everything down until it all fit decently. Some sections will need to be filled in with weld, but nothing more than an 1/8" gap:
Hoping to get it welded at the end of this week, followed by a weekend of autocrossing. Hopefully it'll all get installed next week!
Since Jeff at 240sxMotoring has been busy with his race car (something I can relate to) and customer cars, I took it upon myself to do the cutting and fitting so that all he'll have to do is TIG it up. Started by marking off where I'd need to start my initial cuts:
Took a deep breath and hacked the marked section out of the new tranny:
Figured out where to cut on the previously cut bellhousing section:
And ground everything down until it all fit decently. Some sections will need to be filled in with weld, but nothing more than an 1/8" gap:
Hoping to get it welded at the end of this week, followed by a weekend of autocrossing. Hopefully it'll all get installed next week!
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- Dont Question My Nissan Knowledge
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This guy basically did the exact same thing for a CA
http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/281673-sh ... eme-2.html
http://zilvia.net/f/s-chassis/281673-sh ... eme-2.html
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- Driving Mom's Station Wagon
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- 240sx Wannabe
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- Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 10:18 am
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Normally with cutting the entire bell housing flange, you've gotta jig everything up to ensure position and flatness. Since the KA and RB bell housings are so similar, you only need to cut out about 1/4 of the bell housing. This leaves you with the ability to jig everything up relative to existing holes rather than the tranny input shaft. It also allows you to keep things flat since you've already got a decent amount of surface area to clamp and measure relative to.
Update: Welding is done. Just need to grind down a couple spots near bolt holes:
Hoping to test fit everything today or tomorrow. I've got an event on the 14th followed by a ProSolo. Hoping to have some confidence in the drivetrain when turning up the boost
Update: Welding is done. Just need to grind down a couple spots near bolt holes:
Hoping to test fit everything today or tomorrow. I've got an event on the 14th followed by a ProSolo. Hoping to have some confidence in the drivetrain when turning up the boost
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- 240sx Wannabe
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Got around to popping the tranny in. Since my engine is lowered a bit it actually went in pretty straight. Only had to tilt the engine back by loosening the motor mounts and putting a ratchet strap across the front of the head, and the tranny went right up.
It's a pretty tight fit, but it clears with a little bit of room to breathe. I'd imagine with the stock engine position it'd require a bit of hammering of the tunnel, but in this case it went right up:
Shifter position was pretty much as expected:
I've got enough room to get a hand behind the head to the firewall, so I think I can move it back about an inch and a half. That should get the shifter closer to the right spot, and also help weight balance of the car. I'll probably cut and re-weld the shifter so the shift knob sits in the right position, though.
It's a pretty tight fit, but it clears with a little bit of room to breathe. I'd imagine with the stock engine position it'd require a bit of hammering of the tunnel, but in this case it went right up:
Shifter position was pretty much as expected:
I've got enough room to get a hand behind the head to the firewall, so I think I can move it back about an inch and a half. That should get the shifter closer to the right spot, and also help weight balance of the car. I'll probably cut and re-weld the shifter so the shift knob sits in the right position, though.
- sdaigle240
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haha your crazy bro, if u move the motor back your seriously addicted to autox. are you having a DS made/modified locally?
airman wrote:I'm all about spreadsheets. Bitches love spreadsheets.
schmauster920 wrote:I shall cast my own pistons in the sands of time, then forge them in the depths of hell.. as funds allow
hy35 18psi Build Thread: viewtopic.php?t=38784
RIP MJL best friend of 20 years and the man who showed me 240s
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- 240sx Wannabe
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Bought an aluminum RB25DET conversion driveshaft through 240sxMotoring. Still have to see if it has enough clearance to shift the engine back an inch and a half. If not, I'll have to see if I can swap it for an ABS driveshaft.
From what I've read online, the RB shifter sits 1.5" forward of center when attached to the RB. That indicates that I'll both have enough room to move the engine back (since the RB fits back there) and the driveshaft should work as it is. I'll know more this weekend when I finish things off.
From what I've read online, the RB shifter sits 1.5" forward of center when attached to the RB. That indicates that I'll both have enough room to move the engine back (since the RB fits back there) and the driveshaft should work as it is. I'll know more this weekend when I finish things off.
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- 240sx Wannabe
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The RB transmission is in and working! Some notes on the remainder before I get more pics up:
- The driveshaft I ordered was made for the RB crossmemeber swap that places the shifter in the stock position, so it ended up not working. I ended up buying a steel driveshaft that was 1.75" longer, although I'd go with a 2" extension using stock motor mounts. That should leave you with about .25" of slop in case the drivetrain moves around. With mine shifted back about 1/4" and the new driveshaft it sits like this:
(going to eventually redo it with a new oil pan to clear the cross member and shift it back another 2")
- I built a transmission mount with some urethane swaybar bushings I had lying around, since the Avid mount is a solid block of aluminum and has no "give". I needed just a small amount of play to get the custom mount to fit, and I didn't want the engine moving (Avid mounts up front with urethane inserts) with the transmission fixed as I think that would create unnecessary stresses in the transmission case.
Got some shaky video from the weekend showing the car at 14psi running without issues:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxbIG173N-U
Next project is going to be a more stable camera mount
- The driveshaft I ordered was made for the RB crossmemeber swap that places the shifter in the stock position, so it ended up not working. I ended up buying a steel driveshaft that was 1.75" longer, although I'd go with a 2" extension using stock motor mounts. That should leave you with about .25" of slop in case the drivetrain moves around. With mine shifted back about 1/4" and the new driveshaft it sits like this:
(going to eventually redo it with a new oil pan to clear the cross member and shift it back another 2")
- I built a transmission mount with some urethane swaybar bushings I had lying around, since the Avid mount is a solid block of aluminum and has no "give". I needed just a small amount of play to get the custom mount to fit, and I didn't want the engine moving (Avid mounts up front with urethane inserts) with the transmission fixed as I think that would create unnecessary stresses in the transmission case.
Got some shaky video from the weekend showing the car at 14psi running without issues:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxbIG173N-U
Next project is going to be a more stable camera mount
- R34SR
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Re: RB25 Trans behind a KA24DE
So i guess ill find out for sure soon....rb25det tranny on the way, hoping to simply notch the one bolt that does not align. Also hoping a CC white bunny setup will work.
MEGASQUIRT 2 PNP
AEM IGN1A COILS
EAGLE-ARP-SUPERTECH 9:1 KA24DE
BW S257 SX-E .78AR
ID1050x Injectors
Full Race twin scroll manifold
ISIS FMIC
Mazworx z32 tranny swap
CTS V CALIPERS
STANCE LX+ Coilovers
J30 LSD
AME FS01 WHEELS 18X9 +25
AEM IGN1A COILS
EAGLE-ARP-SUPERTECH 9:1 KA24DE
BW S257 SX-E .78AR
ID1050x Injectors
Full Race twin scroll manifold
ISIS FMIC
Mazworx z32 tranny swap
CTS V CALIPERS
STANCE LX+ Coilovers
J30 LSD
AME FS01 WHEELS 18X9 +25
TinyT wrote:for the love of god, post your setup, do you really think you can get an answer after saying HI ME CAR HAS TURBO NOW BUT I CANT BWAAA PSHH WITH IT WHATS WRONG