HOW TO: *Properly* disconnect your PCV ...
- orion
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HOW TO: *Properly* disconnect your PCV ...
So, I see KA-T people having boost leaks from the PCV valve rubber lines all the time.
Hell, I see KA-T guys with the PCV connected. Why?
Vent it to the atmosphere.
And the proper way is NOT to just remove the 4-into-one deal, and cap each bung with a vacuum cap. They will leak. They crack, then leak. They pop off.
And removing the line from the valve to the inlet of the 4-into-1 deal, then capping that one inlet...is also a half-ass way to do it. It will leak, sooner or later.
I have tried pretty much everything to cap these...and what I've been running for the last few years is the bungs, folded over, and clamped close. They are air tight...but they come out pretty easy if you tug. So it's always worried me.
SO, to that end...here's the proper way to remove the bungs, and close the holes for good...without a welder. Just tap them for 3/8-16, and cap the holes with threaded plugs (with allen key heads).
I leave the PCV line coming directly off the valve connected...and just turn it 90-degrees...so it vents down onto the motor mount bracket if anything comes out of it..
...................................
1) Remove the upper half of your intake manifold.
2) Locate the PCV 'manifold' that you need to remove:
3) Remove the vac lines and the metal hard lines.
4) Then remove the bungs with a pair of vise grips...wiggle a little back and forth, and they will come right our.
*****
This leaves you with 4 holes that are 5/16" I.D. A 3/8-16 tap requires a 5/16" ID hole to tap...so this work out perfect.
1/8" NPT works as well...so does 9x1.25 metric. But it's harder to find taps...and 9x1.25 plugs are impossible to find. 1/8" NPT plugs can be bought at Home Depot or Lowes...they are brass, for plumbing.
*****
5) To cap them, buy these:
6) Then tap them:
...
7) Then, put a little RTV (I like 'Ultra Black'...) on each plug, and thread them in:
...
You're DONE.
Hope that helps someone...and I know for some of you old-schoolers, this is nothing new...but maybe not?
- Brian
Hell, I see KA-T guys with the PCV connected. Why?
Vent it to the atmosphere.
And the proper way is NOT to just remove the 4-into-one deal, and cap each bung with a vacuum cap. They will leak. They crack, then leak. They pop off.
And removing the line from the valve to the inlet of the 4-into-1 deal, then capping that one inlet...is also a half-ass way to do it. It will leak, sooner or later.
I have tried pretty much everything to cap these...and what I've been running for the last few years is the bungs, folded over, and clamped close. They are air tight...but they come out pretty easy if you tug. So it's always worried me.
SO, to that end...here's the proper way to remove the bungs, and close the holes for good...without a welder. Just tap them for 3/8-16, and cap the holes with threaded plugs (with allen key heads).
I leave the PCV line coming directly off the valve connected...and just turn it 90-degrees...so it vents down onto the motor mount bracket if anything comes out of it..
...................................
1) Remove the upper half of your intake manifold.
2) Locate the PCV 'manifold' that you need to remove:
3) Remove the vac lines and the metal hard lines.
4) Then remove the bungs with a pair of vise grips...wiggle a little back and forth, and they will come right our.
*****
This leaves you with 4 holes that are 5/16" I.D. A 3/8-16 tap requires a 5/16" ID hole to tap...so this work out perfect.
1/8" NPT works as well...so does 9x1.25 metric. But it's harder to find taps...and 9x1.25 plugs are impossible to find. 1/8" NPT plugs can be bought at Home Depot or Lowes...they are brass, for plumbing.
*****
5) To cap them, buy these:
6) Then tap them:
...
7) Then, put a little RTV (I like 'Ultra Black'...) on each plug, and thread them in:
...
You're DONE.
Hope that helps someone...and I know for some of you old-schoolers, this is nothing new...but maybe not?
- Brian
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I basically took off all the rubber and there was a nearly 1 inch nipple on each hole. I put a lot of JB weld in em. I really pray (to the dirt) that they will hold up. So far 12psi for several months, and 30psi on occasion when I have pressure checked my system.
EDIT: make sure you do the RTV if you're gonna do this guys! Air loves to leak around those threads!
EDIT: make sure you do the RTV if you're gonna do this guys! Air loves to leak around those threads!
http://www.areasoundmusic.com
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Well, I have my intake manifold off my car because I'm doing a build and I was looking thru the "How to remove emission" page a while back. When I was looking thru it, it seem like a hard job to do and I think ispypsi said it will throw codes so I thought I wouldn't bother to do anything to my intake manifold. What do you guys think? Should I or should I not?
Anywho, are there any advantages of doing this? Does it differ from a 97' intake manifold vs a 93'? Will it throw any codes?
Let me know. THANKS!
Anywho, are there any advantages of doing this? Does it differ from a 97' intake manifold vs a 93'? Will it throw any codes?
Let me know. THANKS!
Kouki.Love.
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- LigouriRd.
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It is funny that you posted this; I just had one of my vacuum plugs pop off this weekend while on a time attack run. You are correct about the rubber plugs, with the exception of the one that popped off, all the others are cracked. Unfortunately I cannot pull out and tap the intake manifold with it on the car.
As a temporary or hopefully semi-permanent solution I have ordered some Silicone caps and I plan to tie wrap them in place for extra security. Silicone shouldn't dry out and crack and hopefully the wall thickness is such that they won't balloon up on me.
As a temporary or hopefully semi-permanent solution I have ordered some Silicone caps and I plan to tie wrap them in place for extra security. Silicone shouldn't dry out and crack and hopefully the wall thickness is such that they won't balloon up on me.
"There is no such thing as too much boost. You could have too little rod, piston, sleeve, head gasket or timing. But never too much boost."
'91 Nissan 240SX
'96 Nissan 240SX KA-T
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'85 Honda Nighthawk 450SC
'91 Nissan 240SX
'96 Nissan 240SX KA-T
'05 Grand Cherokee (4x2)
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Dude.. about the VC line. I had mine set up like you described a while ago, but I changed to a breather filter on the VC. On every single diagram I have seen, it shows fresh air GOING IN the VC and then oily air coming out of the PCV. That means the PCV needs vacuum as we all should have it hooked up, but the VC should not have a vacuum. On our N/A intake tubing the VC has a hose that goes to it, but there is some metal thing in line that I recall to be a check valve. I am not 100% sure though because the last time I saw one was about 9 months ago.xtearsfallforeverx wrote:that end should go into a catch can along with the line from the vc and then back into the intake before the turbo, i would think.
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- xtearsfallforeverx
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well im pretty sure that the hose on the valve cover receives vaccum as well, but I may be wrong. if thats not the case, then just put a breather on it like you said and just run the pvc to a catch can, then route back before the turbo, after the mafs.
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im picking up the stuff i need to do this and theres something i don't understand....This leaves you with 4 holes that are 5/16" I.D. A 3/8-16 tap requires a 5/16" ID hole to tap...so this work out perfect.
1/8" NPT works as well...so does 9x1.25 metric. But it's harder to find taps...and 9x1.25 plugs are impossible to find. 1/8" NPT plugs can be bought at Home Depot or Lowes...they are brass, for plumbing.
to use a 1/8npt plug do i have to find a 1/8NPT tap, or you are saying the 1/8NPT plug works on a 3/8-16 thread?....
cause i found the 3/8-16 tap but i can't find the f-ing plugs.... i'll try another place later today...
- orion
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3/8-16 tap, you need 3/8-16 plugs.
1/8 NPT tap, you need 1/8 NPT plugs.
3/8-24 tap, you need 3/8-24 plugs...
9x1.25 metric tap, you need 9x1.25 plugs (impossible to find).
...
Basically, once you remove the bungs...you have a perfect 5/16" ID hole to tap...the taps listed above are all within 1/64" of a perfect fit for a 5/16" pilot hole.
- Brian
1/8 NPT tap, you need 1/8 NPT plugs.
3/8-24 tap, you need 3/8-24 plugs...
9x1.25 metric tap, you need 9x1.25 plugs (impossible to find).
...
Basically, once you remove the bungs...you have a perfect 5/16" ID hole to tap...the taps listed above are all within 1/64" of a perfect fit for a 5/16" pilot hole.
- Brian
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For the person asking about the small coolant hose line that tee's out to the manifold. Instead of crushing it and folding over just cut that whole protusion off and grind it down so there are no burs. You can just slip the OE water hose further back to cover up the small exposed hole and tighten the clamp fairly stout and you're set.
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not to bash yall for doing this.
but theres a reason its there...
it helps equalize the pressure between all 4 runners
the longer the runners the less likely the pressure will be exactly the same
so that valve helps there.
i wouldnt remove it if i did a setup personally...
it "cleans it up" thats it...
if stacking dominoes as a head gasket helped out for performance id do it lol but it doesnt
and taking a pcv valve off doesnt help performance it just cleans itup.... not worth it ot me
good writeup though
and glad you atleast did it correclty
but theres a reason its there...
it helps equalize the pressure between all 4 runners
the longer the runners the less likely the pressure will be exactly the same
so that valve helps there.
i wouldnt remove it if i did a setup personally...
it "cleans it up" thats it...
if stacking dominoes as a head gasket helped out for performance id do it lol but it doesnt
and taking a pcv valve off doesnt help performance it just cleans itup.... not worth it ot me
good writeup though
and glad you atleast did it correclty