How to build a KA24DE
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if you have all the parts...rods, pistons, head, cams, timing kit, covers, etc. How much would a reputable shop usually charge just to INSTALL everything? How much money is one saving by doing it him/herself?
One of the best post I have ever seen hands down....definatley gives me hope for the future
One of the best post I have ever seen hands down....definatley gives me hope for the future
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i paid about $100, to have a shop in town, install the bearings, rods/pistons
But that was it, therods were alraedy on the pistons too.
And if you want a reputable shop, you will pay a bit more, for all the work you listed, im guessing some where round $600 or so. And that depends on if your having the head worked on, cause for a shop to re-assemble a head is like an extra 100-300.
I paid $1400 for the following, the rest i did, and it really wasnt that bard.
-Machined Block
Bored and honed 20 over
decked, cleaned, and magnafluxed
-Machined head
new valve and guides
valve job
decked, cleaned, and checked for warpage
Head proffesional put together
-Pistons and rods assembled
-Pistons/rods/bearings installed in block
after that i installed the head, timing assembly inlcuding cams, and well the rest of the engine.
But that was it, therods were alraedy on the pistons too.
And if you want a reputable shop, you will pay a bit more, for all the work you listed, im guessing some where round $600 or so. And that depends on if your having the head worked on, cause for a shop to re-assemble a head is like an extra 100-300.
I paid $1400 for the following, the rest i did, and it really wasnt that bard.
-Machined Block
Bored and honed 20 over
decked, cleaned, and magnafluxed
-Machined head
new valve and guides
valve job
decked, cleaned, and checked for warpage
Head proffesional put together
-Pistons and rods assembled
-Pistons/rods/bearings installed in block
after that i installed the head, timing assembly inlcuding cams, and well the rest of the engine.
Another Boosted Altima
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I just want to clarify what all needs to be measured/checked/clearanced/whatever on the shortblock.... from someone who has built more than one engine preferably
bore
bore taper... what is to much?
ring gaps
piston to wall clearance
crank end play
main bearing clearances
rod bearing clearances
rod side clearances
Also, how else can you find perfect TDC other than using a dial gauge? Or is this the best method?
One little tip I just read that I've never heard anyone mention is before you install the piston/rod assembly, fill a can with oil and dip the piston in it so oil is over the rings and piston pin. Rock the rod back and forth to get oil between the pin and the bore.
bore
bore taper... what is to much?
ring gaps
piston to wall clearance
crank end play
main bearing clearances
rod bearing clearances
rod side clearances
Also, how else can you find perfect TDC other than using a dial gauge? Or is this the best method?
One little tip I just read that I've never heard anyone mention is before you install the piston/rod assembly, fill a can with oil and dip the piston in it so oil is over the rings and piston pin. Rock the rod back and forth to get oil between the pin and the bore.
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Scroll down to the bottom. Good info on torque wrenches and stretch gauges.
http://www.centuryperformance.com/fasteners.asp
http://www.centuryperformance.com/fasteners.asp
- wild_maxx
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this guy left out a few very important steps when assembling the motor.
1) the ka main girdle does not have alighment dowels... so you NEED to set the alignment manually. Ivan told me about the same method he uses. Read the following link to learn how. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=164802
2) If you are going to run a cometic HG then both the head/timing cover and the block/timing cover MUST be resurfaced for a smooth even finish.
3) I spoke with ARP about the stretch method. They rocommend torquing in steps just as the FSM states using ARP lube on the bolt threads, washer, and the nut. Torque in steps 2-3 times to fully stretch the studs. http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html
4) DON'T use red shop rags.. they leave alot of lint in the motor and can clog up the oil pump/pickup and starve the motor.
1) the ka main girdle does not have alighment dowels... so you NEED to set the alignment manually. Ivan told me about the same method he uses. Read the following link to learn how. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=164802
2) If you are going to run a cometic HG then both the head/timing cover and the block/timing cover MUST be resurfaced for a smooth even finish.
3) I spoke with ARP about the stretch method. They rocommend torquing in steps just as the FSM states using ARP lube on the bolt threads, washer, and the nut. Torque in steps 2-3 times to fully stretch the studs. http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html
4) DON'T use red shop rags.. they leave alot of lint in the motor and can clog up the oil pump/pickup and starve the motor.
Re: How to build a KA24DE
this will be some usefull info when i start putting ish together, thanks.
next time i have to do a KA... i'm rebuilding myself with a copy of this thread in the room. This is all the info you really need to do it.
totally awesome.
totally awesome.
http://www.areasoundmusic.com
*Nistune/Calum ECU tuning advisor
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Thinking about E-Mance? Think twice and read this:
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WARNING: Emance is now using an alias as ECUTUNERGUY and REFLASHPROS. Spread the word.
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great post but deffinately missing some things someone just posted about stretching the studs. That is a requirement and deffinately needs to be done when boosting a motor as the studs do stretch even under normal compression ratios much less when its getting force fed air.
Also you dont need the plastigauge. That stuff is annoying as **** to use. If you know someone that has a boregauge use that instead as it is WAAAAY more accurate. Although dont not use the plastigauge if you dont have a boregauge as those clearances do need to be checked. Its just much easier and more efficient to do it with a bore gauge as you can check the measurements without having to put the crank in. All you need to do it is a good micrometer and a boregauge. Although dont try to go and buy a bore guage unless you have $2k to spend on a sunnen unit or something. They cost out the ass because they are precision tools. A bore gauge is the correct way to do the job. But use the platigauge if your poor or dont have access to a bore gauge. Luckily for me i used to work in a shop and i can go by and use whatever tools i want to as long as no one is using em.
Just thought i would throw that out there since you made it seem like plastigauge was the only way to do it. Although be carefull when using the boregauge to check the clearances with the bearings in because you can ding or scratch them badly if you have too much tension on the gauge and that wrecks the bearings requiring you to get new ones.
I can go into it more if anyone has anymore questions. Blueprinting motors is fun
Also you dont need the plastigauge. That stuff is annoying as **** to use. If you know someone that has a boregauge use that instead as it is WAAAAY more accurate. Although dont not use the plastigauge if you dont have a boregauge as those clearances do need to be checked. Its just much easier and more efficient to do it with a bore gauge as you can check the measurements without having to put the crank in. All you need to do it is a good micrometer and a boregauge. Although dont try to go and buy a bore guage unless you have $2k to spend on a sunnen unit or something. They cost out the ass because they are precision tools. A bore gauge is the correct way to do the job. But use the platigauge if your poor or dont have access to a bore gauge. Luckily for me i used to work in a shop and i can go by and use whatever tools i want to as long as no one is using em.
Just thought i would throw that out there since you made it seem like plastigauge was the only way to do it. Although be carefull when using the boregauge to check the clearances with the bearings in because you can ding or scratch them badly if you have too much tension on the gauge and that wrecks the bearings requiring you to get new ones.
I can go into it more if anyone has anymore questions. Blueprinting motors is fun
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- beercandrifter
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its making sure that your components match the oem specifications/clearances. basically verifying/machining everything you cant replace to be within the clearances specified by the fsm =)roguegamer wrote:i have actually been looking around for wat blue printing is...lol
91 240sx Hatch: HomeBrwd
25psi hx35/8.8:1/264^2 cams/95lb injectors/Megasquirt 2/ka24de build **RIP**
T56/4.8 LSx/LS9 Cam/60lb injectors/comp 918 springs/Megasquirt 3/all custom wiring
25psi hx35/8.8:1/264^2 cams/95lb injectors/Megasquirt 2/ka24de build **RIP**
T56/4.8 LSx/LS9 Cam/60lb injectors/comp 918 springs/Megasquirt 3/all custom wiring
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- ka24monster
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I have a question as too what happened with your ARP main studs.. the three longer studs were wrong? I am having the same problem with the exact same ones.. I would like to know more about this.
KA24ET Arias 8.8, Eagle rods, ARP Main, Rod & Head, ACL Coated Bearings, Center Force stage 3, Port & Polish, 3 Angle valve job, Colt Cams Tri-flow2, O&J Solid Lifters, Holset HX35, Vi-Pec V44 Standalone & Innovate WB
- ka24monster
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Mine were 5/16 of an inch two short I could only get 4 turns on the nut. I'm assuming you had the same problem right?
KA24ET Arias 8.8, Eagle rods, ARP Main, Rod & Head, ACL Coated Bearings, Center Force stage 3, Port & Polish, 3 Angle valve job, Colt Cams Tri-flow2, O&J Solid Lifters, Holset HX35, Vi-Pec V44 Standalone & Innovate WB
soo ive been looking at this on putting the piston rings on and im still not 100% sure of hot it all goes everything else seems pretty dam easy compared to this. i wanna do it myself to save money and this is my first engine build eve. i found this site can you tell how much good info this. ive been loking at this info on here but i think this would complete all the info and knowledge needed for the piston ring fitment
http://www.dratv.com/howtoputrion.html
http://www.dratv.com/howtoputrion.html
- ppctx
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Re: How to build a KA24DE
Are there already holes or do you have to tap for the squirters. any kits? OP, great post\info.
- nissanfanatic
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In my opinion bud boring overstock is good in ways bad in ways but really whatever size you go with would be a awesome build.. I stayed stock size with arias 8.8:1, then I will turbo but even without turbo now i have enough power to drift.. .5 over sounds pretty far if im not mistaken you might need piston sleeves for reassurance.. but again i stayed stock size. gl with the build..240will wrote:I was wondering how much cylinder wall clearance I should have? I am using supertech pistons that are 89.5mm (.5mm overstock). It says that the min clearance is .003". I will be using this car for drifting, and I was wondering if .005" of cylinder wall clearance would be the right amount?
2nd is not a winner and noone remembers 3rd
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- ppctx
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What a pain in the butt. Get all the way there, only to be halted due to ARPs inability to supply items that were ordered.
If they cant even figure out how to put the right parts in the box, it really makes me question their ability to engineer and QA quality parts...
If they cant even figure out how to put the right parts in the box, it really makes me question their ability to engineer and QA quality parts...
Original owner of a 93' champagne colored, corn eating fastback. Growl and bite is a bit meaner, but she's still my little girl.
I'm not out, just doing a couple of other things for a bit.. brb
I'm not out, just doing a couple of other things for a bit.. brb
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