How to build a KA24DE

Advanced discussion of improving KA-T components

Postby koukika240sx » Wed Nov 02, 2005 5:42 pm

ARP studs do not stretch. thats why they are reusable.
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Postby rhd » Wed Nov 02, 2005 5:54 pm

are you talking to me?

and yes, arp's do stretch...they just arne't tq to yeild. ALL bolts stretch
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Postby joshds25 » Mon Jan 23, 2006 5:27 pm

i just wanted to post on this thread agin to bring it back to life this should have been a sticky??? what you say? :!: :arrow:
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Postby Kilten_one » Mon Jan 23, 2006 6:25 pm

joshds25 wrote:i just wanted to post on this thread agin to bring it back to life this should have been a sticky??? what you say? :!: :arrow:


a link to this thread is posted in the hall of fame under engine parts related
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Postby joshds25 » Mon Jan 23, 2006 6:32 pm

opps sorry :roll: my bad
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Postby jdmpurest » Tue Jan 24, 2006 12:23 pm

dont foget to always assemble your engine in an environment that is 68.4 degrees celcius. that is the temprature of the engine build room at the factory.
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Postby doggunracing » Tue Jan 24, 2006 12:46 pm

jdmpurest wrote:dont foget to always assemble your engine in an environment that is 68.4 degrees celcius. that is the temprature of the engine build room at the factory.


Wow, it's 155.12 degrees fahrenheit in the build room? I would go on strike... :lol:
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Postby Marcus » Tue Jan 24, 2006 12:51 pm

doggunracing wrote:
jdmpurest wrote:dont foget to always assemble your engine in an environment that is 68.4 degrees celcius. that is the temprature of the engine build room at the factory.


Wow, it's 155.12 degrees fahrenheit in the build room? I would go on strike... :lol:

That's what I was thinkin....that has to suck.
Hell I'm in Kansas so it's that warm in the summer anyways. 8)
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Postby ispentallmymoneyontires » Tue Jan 24, 2006 11:49 pm

so basicly i can build an engine any time outdoors here in florida, sweet.




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Postby felix » Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:24 am

very best post ever. i'm about to do this myself and need all the help i can get!

thanks alot
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Postby tunedis95 » Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:10 pm

wow ....this is freaken awsome....i've been looking for something like this....great job on the write up...great pics too.....eric
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Postby EstoMax » Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:42 pm

hey man with the ring gap you mean 0.017 and 0.019 right not 0.0017 and 0.0019? :o

and also wouldnt you want the first ring to have more clearance (since more heat hits it) instead of having first ring a little less gap and 2nd ring more?

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Postby Java » Tue Mar 28, 2006 6:59 pm

Ive got a question (like i always do) Whats tools did you need to have to assemble the short block? measuring wise. Im doing mine very soon (like in a few days) and i was curiouse what all i would need other than a ring compressor and a fealler gauge.
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Postby EstoMax » Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:24 pm

you also need a file to grind the rings down.. a hand one will take a long time, i set a dremel up sideways and used that, only put the ring end on there for 2 sec at a time and then go remeasure cause it eats it down quick :D
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Postby Joel07 » Wed Mar 29, 2006 6:33 am

The idea behind a larger second ring gap is that combustion gas tends to get caught in between the top and second rings, and if it builds up enough, will cause the top ring to "flutter" and lose seal. So by opening up the second ring slightly, the small amounts of combustion gas just go into the crankcase rather than making the top ring lose seal. This is the same reason I will never use gapless second rings in a motor, and the same reason many pistons have a groove cut between the top and second rings.
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Postby Java » Wed Mar 29, 2006 10:51 am

you also need a file to grind the rings down.. a hand one will take a long time, i set a dremel up sideways and used that, only put the ring end on there for 2 sec at a time and then go remeasure cause it eats it down quick


why does the sound of that scare me :? grind down the rings.. I guess i need to some research on that :lol:
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Postby Projex240 » Wed Mar 29, 2006 1:30 pm

mine are at 22 and 22

Its what ivan told me would be a good rign gap with boost and nitrous.
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Postby LocAss24 » Fri Mar 31, 2006 9:04 pm

Wow, great post. Thank you for putting out the time for this. You've just given me that little extra encouragement to rebuild my spare KA.
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Postby wildbama37 » Sat Apr 01, 2006 12:41 am

Projex240 wrote:mine are at 22 and 22

Its what ivan told me would be a good rign gap with boost and nitrous.
-Josh


GRIND down the rings? are you serious? is this really a good idea ?
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Postby SleepyS-14 » Sat Apr 01, 2006 12:44 pm

It is a requirement. You have to set the ring end gaps correctly. Just take your time because if you nick the actual ring surface(that contacts the cylinder wall) then you have to get a new ring.
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Postby EstoMax » Mon Apr 03, 2006 5:53 pm

btw do you also lube the rod bolts with the arb lube or do you leave those dry for torqueing?
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Postby SleepyS-14 » Mon Apr 03, 2006 9:23 pm

You have to use the lube. A dry torque is not an accurate torque.
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Postby Java » Tue Apr 04, 2006 8:16 pm

where did you buy that plasti gauge :oops: im also reading that they have different packages PL-A, PL-B ect. ranging from different measurments i imagine. Where did you get yours and what package number did you get?
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Postby wildbama37 » Tue Apr 04, 2006 10:39 pm

bump for the plastigauge question!
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Postby ghostchild316 » Wed Apr 05, 2006 7:30 am

You can get it almost any parts store.Trust me,I know,I work at an auto parts store... :wink:
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Postby Java » Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:21 am

You can get it almost any parts store.Trust me,I know,I work at an auto parts store...


what mm package should i be looking for? they have for example: .010 through .050 next mm package would be gauging from .060 through .100 Dont know if I explained that right or not but i think youll know what i mean. Basically i dont know which mm im looking for to measure what i need to for the assembly of the shortblock :oops:

Also one more question, what did you pay to have the block: Hot tanked, magnafluxed, bored, honed, and redecked. Im having mine done at a local shop and they quoted me $900+ for Rods/Crank ShotPeend, Block Tanked, Maged, Bored, Honed, Cleaned, and Balanced. I thought at first they included assembling it aswell.. but i called them and they said it didnt.. does $900 sound right for all that???
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Postby NHn00bie » Fri Apr 07, 2006 1:08 am

bump for plasiguage package ???? and is decking nec. when building?
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Postby wildbama37 » Fri Apr 07, 2006 8:00 pm

i guess just look at what the clearances are SUPPOSED to be and then by the plastigauge that has the clearance within the range of the plastigauge
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Postby lestat » Thu Sep 21, 2006 9:46 pm

great post. you are my hero.
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Postby Ngen-Head » Fri Dec 01, 2006 12:00 pm

pics dont work, anyone know why?
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