How to build a KA24DE

Advanced discussion of improving KA-T components

Postby Craving4Boost » Fri Dec 01, 2006 1:22 pm

if you have all the parts...rods, pistons, head, cams, timing kit, covers, etc. How much would a reputable shop usually charge just to INSTALL everything? How much money is one saving by doing it him/herself?

One of the best post I have ever seen hands down....definatley gives me hope for the future
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Postby Matt89 » Thu Dec 07, 2006 1:35 pm

I'd like to know that as well, i've been thinking of picking up a spare block and building it myself.

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Postby vader3120 » Sat Dec 09, 2006 3:18 pm

i paid about $100, to have a shop in town, install the bearings, rods/pistons

But that was it, therods were alraedy on the pistons too.

And if you want a reputable shop, you will pay a bit more, for all the work you listed, im guessing some where round $600 or so. And that depends on if your having the head worked on, cause for a shop to re-assemble a head is like an extra 100-300.

I paid $1400 for the following, the rest i did, and it really wasnt that bard.
-Machined Block
Bored and honed 20 over
decked, cleaned, and magnafluxed

-Machined head
new valve and guides
valve job
decked, cleaned, and checked for warpage
Head proffesional put together

-Pistons and rods assembled

-Pistons/rods/bearings installed in block

after that i installed the head, timing assembly inlcuding cams, and well the rest of the engine.
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Postby WI_S14_Goldie » Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:41 pm

WoW...very well written. I'm in the process of putting back together a KA and this was understandable and pretty accurate. Two Thumbs UP! :wink:
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Postby pr240sx » Tue Feb 06, 2007 7:37 am

Any part list for all of us thinking in a rebuild?
Like bearings used, rings, pistons, etc
No price, just the "ingredients"

Also, what about using those gapless rings on a boosted motor? any thoughts on this?
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Postby RBbugBITme » Wed Feb 07, 2007 12:22 am

I just want to clarify what all needs to be measured/checked/clearanced/whatever on the shortblock.... from someone who has built more than one engine preferably

bore
bore taper... what is to much?
ring gaps
piston to wall clearance
crank end play
main bearing clearances
rod bearing clearances
rod side clearances

Also, how else can you find perfect TDC other than using a dial gauge? Or is this the best method?

One little tip I just read that I've never heard anyone mention is before you install the piston/rod assembly, fill a can with oil and dip the piston in it so oil is over the rings and piston pin. Rock the rod back and forth to get oil between the pin and the bore.
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Postby RBbugBITme » Wed Feb 07, 2007 10:14 pm

Scroll down to the bottom. Good info on torque wrenches and stretch gauges.

http://www.centuryperformance.com/fasteners.asp
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Postby Rufiotwin » Thu Apr 05, 2007 3:05 pm

holy crap I have been looking for this all day. You're my hero. After two years, this post is still the best freaking guide I have ever seen.
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Postby ghx407 » Fri Apr 06, 2007 4:59 am

Yeah, I'm making this my homepage... It's awesome.
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Postby ERnex » Fri Apr 27, 2007 2:27 pm

im have to look over this pretty soon...
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Postby wild_maxx » Sat Apr 28, 2007 6:54 pm

this guy left out a few very important steps when assembling the motor.

1) the ka main girdle does not have alighment dowels... so you NEED to set the alignment manually. Ivan told me about the same method he uses. Read the following link to learn how. http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=164802

2) If you are going to run a cometic HG then both the head/timing cover and the block/timing cover MUST be resurfaced for a smooth even finish.

3) I spoke with ARP about the stretch method. They rocommend torquing in steps just as the FSM states using ARP lube on the bolt threads, washer, and the nut. Torque in steps 2-3 times to fully stretch the studs. http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html

4) DON'T use red shop rags.. they leave alot of lint in the motor and can clog up the oil pump/pickup and starve the motor.
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Re: How to build a KA24DE

Postby makas14 » Tue May 15, 2007 4:34 am

this will be some usefull info when i start putting ish together, thanks.
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Postby 8-bit » Mon Jun 18, 2007 10:00 pm

next time i have to do a KA... i'm rebuilding myself with a copy of this thread in the room. This is all the info you really need to do it.

totally awesome.
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Postby Shaggy » Mon Sep 24, 2007 3:15 pm

great post but deffinately missing some things someone just posted about stretching the studs. That is a requirement and deffinately needs to be done when boosting a motor as the studs do stretch even under normal compression ratios much less when its getting force fed air.

Also you dont need the plastigauge. That stuff is annoying as **** to use. If you know someone that has a boregauge use that instead as it is WAAAAY more accurate. Although dont not use the plastigauge if you dont have a boregauge as those clearances do need to be checked. Its just much easier and more efficient to do it with a bore gauge as you can check the measurements without having to put the crank in. All you need to do it is a good micrometer and a boregauge. Although dont try to go and buy a bore guage unless you have $2k to spend on a sunnen unit or something. They cost out the ass because they are precision tools. A bore gauge is the correct way to do the job. But use the platigauge if your poor or dont have access to a bore gauge. Luckily for me i used to work in a shop and i can go by and use whatever tools i want to as long as no one is using em.

Just thought i would throw that out there since you made it seem like plastigauge was the only way to do it. Although be carefull when using the boregauge to check the clearances with the bearings in because you can ding or scratch them badly if you have too much tension on the gauge and that wrecks the bearings requiring you to get new ones.

I can go into it more if anyone has anymore questions. Blueprinting motors is fun :D
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Postby roguegamer » Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:29 pm

i have actually been looking around for wat blue printing is...lol
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Postby beercandrifter » Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:08 am

roguegamer wrote:i have actually been looking around for wat blue printing is...lol

its making sure that your components match the oem specifications/clearances. basically verifying/machining everything you cant replace to be within the clearances specified by the fsm =)
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Postby roguegamer » Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:49 am

oh ok, i get the jist
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Postby ka24monster » Wed Apr 23, 2008 6:22 pm

I have a question as too what happened with your ARP main studs.. the three longer studs were wrong? I am having the same problem with the exact same ones.. I would like to know more about this.
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Postby sunnys14 » Thu Apr 24, 2008 12:50 am

Samething happened to me with the main studs. I just contacted ARP and got 3 new ones.
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Postby ka24monster » Thu Apr 24, 2008 6:32 pm

Mine were 5/16 of an inch two short I could only get 4 turns on the nut. I'm assuming you had the same problem right?
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Postby ka-torqy » Sat Apr 26, 2008 10:44 pm

soo ive been looking at this on putting the piston rings on and im still not 100% sure of hot it all goes everything else seems pretty dam easy compared to this. i wanna do it myself to save money and this is my first engine build eve. i found this site can you tell how much good info this. ive been loking at this info on here but i think this would complete all the info and knowledge needed for the piston ring fitment

http://www.dratv.com/howtoputrion.html
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Re: How to build a KA24DE

Postby ppctx » Fri Jun 06, 2008 8:48 pm

Are there already holes or do you have to tap for the squirters. any kits? OP, great post\info.
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Postby ka-torqy » Fri Jun 20, 2008 4:04 pm

what do you guys use to file the rings
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Postby nissanfanatic » Fri Jun 20, 2008 5:05 pm

I just used a standard file. I don't think it really matters. An actual ring filer tool would be optimal, but a standard file works. Just be careful not to file off too much material.
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Postby 240will » Tue Jul 15, 2008 6:53 am

I was wondering how much cylinder wall clearance I should have? I am using supertech pistons that are 89.5mm (.5mm overstock). It says that the min clearance is .003". I will be using this car for drifting, and I was wondering if .005" of cylinder wall clearance would be the right amount?
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Postby JON FLA » Tue Aug 19, 2008 5:36 pm

nice post, i just got done completely rebuilding my ka about a month ago.. lol nice post tho.. 240,000 miles to 0 miles on a brand new motor =) good feeling. some stuff is a pain in the a$$.. gotta be smarter then the ish your workin with lol
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Postby JON FLA » Tue Aug 19, 2008 5:41 pm

240will wrote:I was wondering how much cylinder wall clearance I should have? I am using supertech pistons that are 89.5mm (.5mm overstock). It says that the min clearance is .003". I will be using this car for drifting, and I was wondering if .005" of cylinder wall clearance would be the right amount?

In my opinion bud boring overstock is good in ways bad in ways but really whatever size you go with would be a awesome build.. I stayed stock size with arias 8.8:1, then I will turbo but even without turbo now i have enough power to drift.. .5 over sounds pretty far if im not mistaken you might need piston sleeves for reassurance.. but again i stayed stock size. gl with the build..
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Postby deuceforty » Fri Sep 05, 2008 7:04 pm

question about this image..

i got ARP main studs
Image

ive go tthe ARP main studs and they dont really fit... in the same 3 studs you left out. did you reuse the stock bolts for those 3 and use the ARP mains on the rest or what did you do?>
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Postby ppctx » Sat Sep 06, 2008 9:40 am

What a pain in the butt. Get all the way there, only to be halted due to ARPs inability to supply items that were ordered. :?

If they cant even figure out how to put the right parts in the box, it really makes me question their ability to engineer and QA quality parts...
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Postby deuceforty » Tue Sep 09, 2008 2:24 pm

anyone got an update to this? heres what im talking about...

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