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PostPosted: Sat Nov 01, 2008 11:40 pm
by Walperstyle
^has anyone called ARP yet? I was going to order some but am waiting because of this.


Btw, THANK YOU FOR THIS THREAD, SOME BASICS ANSWERED!

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 9:55 pm
by TryingToTurbo
yeah,, deuceforty got it sorted out. i think he ordered them from phase2motortrend.com and they sent him some that were the right thread pattern, but not for the ka. he sent them back and got the right ones.

in other words. i think it was phase2's fault not ARP that he got the wrong studs...

PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 6:51 am
by drunknmunky
I got a question about takiing off the head. There are those 2 main nuts with the 3/8" square socket. Then there are those 8 individual caps which hold the studs from the short block to the head. Are those allen wrench socket holes????

PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 3:31 pm
by memphis
sick thread i love it. thanks!

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:08 am
by chuki_beast
great thread...very informative. I'm relatively new to this stuff. I understand everything that you did, but I got a couple questions.

1.What does bored and honed mean? My understanding of bored just means to make the cylinders bigger?

2. Also .....If my plans come through and I do get a S13 and rebuild the engine. I'm wondering if it is necessary to bore the block. Can I re-build the block without boring if I'm going to be running it NA with the expectations of do a turbo upgrade? Or would the block need to be bored when I'm doing the turbo upgrade?

and I guess I should ask this question as i'm already on a roll. lol

3. Can the fuel system be upgraded if I'm not going to be running turbo or with this lead to complications. Should I just wait till I do a turbo upgrade to install a new fuel system? My goals are going to be somewhere in the 200 - 250 HP region I think. Give or take.

PostPosted: Tue Mar 31, 2009 11:12 am
by chuki_beast
jdmpurest wrote:dont foget to always assemble your engine in an environment that is 68.4 degrees celcius. that is the temprature of the engine build room at the factory.


is this true?!?!?!?!

PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:09 am
by drftturbo
Don't forget the o-ring between the timing chain and the block, and always use a new one....

if you don't your motor will last about 150 miles... oil starvation, then knocking..

Image

PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 11:37 am
by 2point4turbo
umm what o ring between timing chain and block?? your picture doesnt work, and im confused on what your talkin about..

PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 1:48 pm
by ka-torqy
yea me too bout the o-ringe between the chain and the block

PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 8:15 pm
by Unbound Yuurei
how long did it take you to finish building the block?

how many hours did you put aside per day to work on it?

PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 12:02 am
by merlin240s13
search boys

PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 4:56 am
by Unbound Yuurei
merlin240s13 wrote:search boys


bah, ok....

T_T

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 10:07 pm
by R33E8
Just to save people the hassle of search across different sites, here is a link to the o-ring they are talking about:

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=191269

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 10:23 pm
by merlin240s13
lol i had no idea what you all were talking about I was just being a jackas s :D

PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 1:28 pm
by yadonnome123
this writeup helped me alot during my rebuild. I printed this and used it alot. very helpful. thanks

PostPosted: Thu Nov 05, 2009 5:41 am
by kentoJDM240
Can any one view the pictures? I clicked on the link and getting a page cannot be displayed Let me know if its just my pos PC

thanks

PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2009 7:11 am
by 200sxBoY
sweeeeeet build

PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 8:34 pm
by mykal90
thanks man my motor is rebuilt and running good bc of your help

PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2010 9:25 pm
by DeBoy
I shall def be using this someday. thanks much.

PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2010 9:21 am
by vdub
i have a question, if bearing clearances are off does this mean that the block or crank are bad? do clevite and acl sell different sized bearings to fix clearance issues? if bearing clearances are wrong what exactly happens like u spin a rod bearing or main bearing.

probly noob questions but im a noob so bear with me

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 10:18 pm
by Walperstyle
^Its been answered here. Search engine should pull up results, but to answer your question;

Clevette has only the one type of bearing. Nissan has 3 different grades. (see the FSM). There is a possibility you need to get a different sized bearing, but if it still has too much 'play' after torqued and checked with plastigauge (or a micrometer check) then you should source a different crank, or find someone that can make custom bearings. Finding a different crank is easier. AMS told me to find a different crank if I still had clearence issues.

I'm kinda in the same boat. My clearance with micrometers was showing about 0.0030 on average, however I double-checked with plastiguage and it seems to always read 0.0020-0.0025 approx. I'm going to proceed with my build, but throw a large magnet in the oil pan and check it while changing oil a few times during the break in process.

FSM calls for a max of 0.0024 clearence, and min 0.0004, sometimes turbo motors can get away with a little more (but proceed at your own risk!

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 10:31 pm
by NateDogg
Just run a bit thicker oil if you have larger clearances.

10w40 or 15w50 should do the trick, depending on oil temps.

PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 5:00 am
by Juank39
BRAD D wrote:
onefast240 wrote:You can but with the gear on it makes it much much easier to keep the motor and timing all good.


The way you posted is how the FSM says to do it as well.

I think it would be easy to mount up the gears / chain and then put the covers on... this way the chain cant jump off....

So I can do it that way? Or no

Thanks, super good post


so my dumbass did one of these, but honestly im about to give up on this motor, the headgasket snapped from so much bending rite where it ends at the head, do u guys think it would be safe to slap some liquid gasket to seal between the upper and lower timing chain covers???

PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 11:13 am
by schmauster920
yes, as long as the head gasket area is undamaged... the front covers have always sealed up fine with rtv

PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 11:22 am
by Inferno s14
YOU THE MAN, MANNN!!

PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 8:48 pm
by ChiefS13DE
I got a question for ya, could be a noob question, I dunno. I'm building my block, here is the parts list:

Wiseco pistons, std bore
clevite bearings
bc con rods
arp head studs

Soon to have:

Holset HY35
JGS starter kit
ebay IC

Goals are 350hp, maybe more, depends on how content I am with it after the build.
I have the ARP HEAD STUDS, but no MAIN STUDS. If I used stock main studs on the girdle but ARP head studs, would I have issues with the crank holding 350hp+? I don't believe the head would lift, but I'm just wondering if I should get ARP mains as well. Thanks for the input guys.

PostPosted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 11:23 pm
by Walperstyle
the tune will determine your horsepower. Mains should be fine, but for what its worth, I'd do it anyways.

PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 3:47 am
by ChiefS13DE
True. I looked it up on frsport.com and they're about $110 for main studs. I guess that's a small price to pay for piece of mind. Thanks for the advice man.

PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 9:59 pm
by Burnt240sx
SleepyS-14 wrote:You have to use the lube. A dry torque is not an accurate torque.



Really?.... From what I was taught, and im by no means weak when it comes to mechanical. I though dry torque was the actual when you do a wet/oil torque you are actually increasing the torque of the bolt. But it is all in the specifications of the manufacturer. So if arp said use oil or lube then use lube, if it said dry, then you would do it dry..Correct?

PostPosted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 10:36 pm
by schmauster920
This goes for everyone if its not obvious... check the torque on your mains, rods and anything else if you have the pan off already.

I checked my main bolts when the motor was out and they were at about 20ftlbs, some were even looser.. I think they go in the 50ftlb range.. either way they were loose